J-hook or t-hook?
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
I bought a summit tie down kit with the additional 2 axle straps for the rear. The hooks go into the frame holes just fine. It has these style hooks, if I recall the set complete with canvas bag was around 120
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/gfr-...4QgaAg1X8P8HAQ
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/gfr-...4QgaAg1X8P8HAQ
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I've got a set from Jegs like the ones you posted I used all last season but the hooks are to big for the front frame holes. Right now I hook to the front k member and use axle straps for the rear.
But beecause the front is slow low it's hard to reach the k member and the rear I have to crawl under and wrap the axle straps under the brake lines. It's a "pita". Just trying to make strapping the car down a little easier.
My 12 bolt has built in relocation brackets with extra holes. Thinking about using that for the rear and maybe j or t hooks for the front.
Just trying to make things a little easier strapping the car down.
But beecause the front is slow low it's hard to reach the k member and the rear I have to crawl under and wrap the axle straps under the brake lines. It's a "pita". Just trying to make strapping the car down a little easier.
My 12 bolt has built in relocation brackets with extra holes. Thinking about using that for the rear and maybe j or t hooks for the front.
Just trying to make things a little easier strapping the car down.
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
Hmm, those fit in my frame holes. If its not a big deal you would need the hole to be slightly lower in the front or higher in the rear for the hook to have more clearance to be inserted. You could slightly hammer the rear side of the hole or slightly pry the front and the hook I bet would slip right in.
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Hmm, those fit in my frame holes. If its not a big deal you would need the hole to be slightly lower in the front or higher in the rear for the hook to have more clearance to be inserted. You could slightly hammer the rear side of the hole or slightly pry the front and the hook I bet would slip right in.
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Northern Tool carries the J-hooks we use in our C5 to go into the frame and attach the tie down to. IIRC they were like $8 each and they stocked them as well as several other types. Might be worth checking them out if you have one local.
Here is what we use; not sure if they'll work for you.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...ct_43572_43572
Scott
Here is what we use; not sure if they'll work for you.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...ct_43572_43572
Scott
Last edited by dsadsdaiouser; Feb 3, 2016 at 01:49 PM.
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Northern Tool carries the J-hooks we use in our C5 to go into the frame and attach the tie down to. IIRC they were like $8 each and they stocked them as well as several other types. Might be worth checking them out if you have one local.
Here is what we use; not sure if they'll work for you.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...ct_43572_43572
Scott
Here is what we use; not sure if they'll work for you.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...ct_43572_43572
Scott
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I have a hole drilled on the insides of my lower control arm brackets with a screw together chain link I hook the rear straps to. On the front a standard 2x12 j hook ratchet strap the the hook the bottom of the lower control arm. Very easy to get to.
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Ideally (from a safety standpoint) you want to strap to a part of the car that is un-sususpended. This allows the car to bounce and float on the trailer without the chance of the strap coming loose.
If you strap the car to the frame and hit a large bump, the car could compress, putting slack in the strap, and unhook itself.
However, most guys with expensive custom valved shocks won't do this because it puts unnecessary use in the suspension. You will typically see these guys strap the car down on top of an inflatable rubber thing (for lack of a better term). Once straped, you air up the thing and it help keep the car from bouncing around when hooked to a suspended part of the chassis. See this link:
http://timmcamis.com/shop/chassis-stabilizer.html
If you strap the car to the frame and hit a large bump, the car could compress, putting slack in the strap, and unhook itself.
However, most guys with expensive custom valved shocks won't do this because it puts unnecessary use in the suspension. You will typically see these guys strap the car down on top of an inflatable rubber thing (for lack of a better term). Once straped, you air up the thing and it help keep the car from bouncing around when hooked to a suspended part of the chassis. See this link:
http://timmcamis.com/shop/chassis-stabilizer.html
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
Bullshit or they wouldnt put tow spots on the frame. You only want one suspension working at a time and thats the trailers. With both working they fight against each other. Im not even sure how you came up with that concocted idea.
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Scott
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
Right, and I mention the prying because they are usually slightly jacked up anyway from lifting the car over the years. One side hook fits in better then the other in mine because of previous jack use.
As for the car suspension and the trailer suspension fighting each other. I don't even know what that means. What is there to fight about?
I was just giving an option of how guys with expensive race cars typically strap their ****. Just cause you haven't seen it, doesn't mean you know it all.
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
Dude I'm sorry you arent seeing the picture, and im sorry you dont understand how physics work. Really, and I dont feel like an ******* for stating the truth. If you think cars are unsuspended on 18 wheeler trailers you are out of your damn mind. You need to look closer and watch them going down the highway, they are not bouncing around. Just go look for yourself, dont come back all butthurt. As far as suspensions working against themselves. If your trailer squarely hits a bump/dip, it will drive the trailer up into the cars suspension which will then counter it by going even higher, like a trampoline effect. That's bad, because the weight of the car is moving/bouncing around. And yes I realize people tie down things by the wheels and the correct way is to then hook to the body and pull down to load the suspension. Thats why lots of cars on 18 wheelers look like low riders.
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Just picked up a couple j hooks since I was near a northern tool and they work perfect in the rear frame holes. Makes it a 100 times easier to strap the back down! I wish I knew about this earlier..
I also just got done adjusting the new front shocks and raised it a good 1" and that made it easier to strap to the front k member.
It takes maybe 2 minutes to strap front and back down tight.
I also just got done adjusting the new front shocks and raised it a good 1" and that made it easier to strap to the front k member.
It takes maybe 2 minutes to strap front and back down tight.
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I've always used axle straps but crawling on my back and sliding the straps between the axle and brake lines is a pain.
The T hooks I got (i said j hooks earlier) fit perfect in the rear frame holes. Just turn them sideways to fit in the oval hole and then turn it to face back towards the car. Is that what you are asking?
I did read a few people use the front and rear frame holes to tie there cars down. So I think it will be okay. I pulled over a couple times yesterday just to make sure nothing came loose.
The T hooks I got (i said j hooks earlier) fit perfect in the rear frame holes. Just turn them sideways to fit in the oval hole and then turn it to face back towards the car. Is that what you are asking?
I did read a few people use the front and rear frame holes to tie there cars down. So I think it will be okay. I pulled over a couple times yesterday just to make sure nothing came loose.
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
Yes I'm asking about those. My problem is the ones I'm seeing im questioning whether my car strap will hook to them. The hooks dont have a very wide opening.
Dude I'm sorry you arent seeing the picture, and im sorry you dont understand how physics work. Really, and I dont feel like an ******* for stating the truth. If you think cars are unsuspended on 18 wheeler trailers you are out of your damn mind. You need to look closer and watch them going down the highway, they are not bouncing around. Just go look for yourself, dont come back all butthurt. As far as suspensions working against themselves. If your trailer squarely hits a bump/dip, it will drive the trailer up into the cars suspension which will then counter it by going even higher, like a trampoline effect. That's bad, because the weight of the car is moving/bouncing around. And yes I realize people tie down things by the wheels and the correct way is to then hook to the body and pull down to load the suspension. Thats why lots of cars on 18 wheelers look like low riders.
Strapping only to a suspended part of the car front and back is dangerous (unless for some ungodly reason you are strapping the thing down so ******* tight that the suspension is fully collapsed).