anybody mod their factory rack to manual aka pull apart and take seals out?
#22
I just pulled mine apart today (2000 SS) and took out all of the seals except the two end dust seals. I took out the seal inside the main tube also. I had to rip it out, couldn't figure how to remove it. Tried tapping it out--no go. I used a lot of grease on the rack and gear assy when I put it back together. It was easy to take apart---just messy! I am waiting on some new bellows so it is still on the bench. It will have skinnies on the front, so I hope it works ok. I am installing a Gen V L83 with a Whipple and there is an idler pulley in the kit . I have a new rack coming from Detroit Speed and a L8T power steering pump in case this doesn't work
#23
11 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
Converted to a manual rack-n-pinion for my 99 build. Drain the PS fluid and take it apart to remove the shaft and tack weld it. Grease everything up real good, reassemble and seal up the line connections ports with Permatex. I re-used the fittings and flared the ends of some easy to bend metal tubing to make a crossover line.
#24
11 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
I uses the ICT Billet alternator bracket for low mount and had to drill and tap a hole in the 6.0 iron block.
#25
11 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
My only mistake was not putting the bolt on the driver side upside down to make removing the rack easier..
#27
TECH Junkie
Many stock racks are 12.7:1 or I think 14.4:1
and alot of manual racks can be as low as 20:1
So if the ratio was different, that'll make a drastic change in feel to how they steer.
Of course front tire size and weight on the nose make a difference too.
I've torn multiple racks down and removed the guts and mechanically there is nothing that makes them difficult to turn. They just slide like butter same as any manual rack