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M6 but 60' and mph is better on DR

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Old 04-05-2016 | 09:46 PM
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Default M6 but 60' and mph is better on DR

I know everyone says a full slick is the best for a stick car but I ran a 7.47 @ 95mph in the eighth with a 60' of 1.70 compared to 7.60's-7.70's @ 92-93 mph with 1.8's 60's on a Hoosier quick time pro. The car was faster out of the hole and down the track on the Hoosier drag radial. With that said, it wasn't consistent. When I hooked, it was with bad chatter and the other times I just blew the tires off at the line. I'm in need of new tires for the strip and was gonna go with a Hoosier stiff wall slick but what will that do to my times? What's the best tire to choose. Ive done a ton of reading but am looking for more advice. I'm h/c, 9" 3.89's, ls7 clutch. The car will either be getting a single turbo or 4.30's this year. Thoughts?
Old 04-06-2016 | 12:50 AM
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Those things are probably old and wore out. A new set of Hoosier slicks will either get you in the low 1.5s or 1.4's. Or break **** trying.
Old 04-06-2016 | 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by blk00ss
Those things are probably old and wore out. A new set of Hoosier slicks will either get you in the low 1.5s or 1.4's. Or break **** trying.
This.

Also launching a DR with a stick car is like riding on the ridge of a roof. You have a very fine line/window to get a good launch. Too much rpm and it spins, too little and you bog. Slicks are more forgiving if you come out too high. They'll spin a little but hook much quicker than a DR.

Another benefit is that slicks are more forgiving on marginal tracks. Tire psi is crucial too.

Don't forget to rotate your slicks (right to left, etc) the next trip to the track. You get better wear out of them.

-Mark
Old 04-06-2016 | 01:43 PM
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Were the size of each tire similar op?

I agree about old tires with the other 2. Drag tires are not meant to be kept.
Old 04-06-2016 | 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Bitemark46
This.

Also launching a DR with a stick car is like riding on the ridge of a roof. You have a very fine line/window to get a good launch. Too much rpm and it spins, too little and you bog. Slicks are more forgiving if you come out too high. They'll spin a little but hook much quicker than a DR.

Another benefit is that slicks are more forgiving on marginal tracks. Tire psi is crucial too.

Don't forget to rotate your slicks (right to left, etc) the next trip to the track. You get better wear out of them.

-Mark
Mark, thank you for the info. The Hoosier qtp's were used but had tons of rubber on them still. Same with the Hoosier drag radials. I saw no improvement over the drag radials other than they would recover from a spin at launch where the radials would not. So, point is, unless you're awesome at launching perfectly on the radials, the full slick is the way to go for consistency and recovery from spin? What can I expect from the full slick when compared to the Qtp's? I enjoyed the better et and mph from the radial when it hooked. Bad chatter tho. Will the full slick produce a better et because of a greatly improved 60'?
Old 04-06-2016 | 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by HioSSilver
Were the size of each tire similar op?

I agree about old tires with the other 2. Drag tires are not meant to be kept.
Yes the qtp's and drag radials were both 26x9x16. Is it that the sidewalls on the qtp's were wore out already when I got them and that is why they were not superior to the drag radials?
Old 04-06-2016 | 05:11 PM
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My car makes 460 rwhp and should be faster than it is and I've never had a 60' better than 1.68. Before I go throwing more power at it, I wanna see what I can get out of my combo because I never dead hook. I know gearing will help too. I'm going through the traps at about 6100rpm. Max power isn't till 6500 and carries till 7k. Wanted to start with the right tire first.
Old 04-06-2016 | 08:31 PM
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My car makes 430rwhp and goes low 1.50's 60ft on full slicks. The chatter you get from DR's is what breaks ****. The slicks absorb alot of that and keep you from breaking parts.
Old 04-06-2016 | 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 25thhawk
My car makes 430rwhp and goes low 1.50's 60ft on full slicks. The chatter you get from DR's is what breaks ****. The slicks absorb alot of that and keep you from breaking parts.
What size tire do you run? A 26,27,28"? Gearing? I'd like to know to get an idea of what will work for me. I know the chatter will break stuff. So a change is needed for sure. Also, what slick do you run? Mickey or Hoosier?
Old 04-06-2016 | 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by aaronware76
Mark, thank you for the info. The Hoosier qtp's were used but had tons of rubber on them still. Same with the Hoosier drag radials. I saw no improvement over the drag radials other than they would recover from a spin at launch where the radials would not. So, point is, unless you're awesome at launching perfectly on the radials, the full slick is the way to go for consistency and recovery from spin? What can I expect from the full slick when compared to the Qtp's? I enjoyed the better et and mph from the radial when it hooked. Bad chatter tho. Will the full slick produce a better et because of a greatly improved 60'?
No problem man. How old were the qtp's? I know with bias ply tires they do harden much quicker than a DR. I get about 2 seasons out of my slicks (maybe 30-40 passes) and they are not a soft as they once were. Even the indicators had a ton of depth left I trashed them. But qtp's I would say they are similar to a M/T ET Streets. I've seen more people have issues hooking with them than even a DR.

Going to a full slick you will see much more consistency. Your 60' and ET will drop. Mph will drop a little but in drag racing its who ever gets to the traps first. If you went 1.68 with either a qtp or a DR I see no reason on why you shouldn't be in the mid 1.5's on a slick.

Do you have a 2 step? Trying to free rev the motor and hold it is harder to find your sweet spot and keep it there. This goes for either a DR or slick. I used to free rev and my 60's would vary .03-.06 but with a 2 step it's .01-.03.

With respect to your rpm at the traps. You should be at peak or just past peak. So that says either 2 things. Your tires are too big or you need more gear. Being a stick car you NEED sidewall to absorb the shock. So I would go up in gear if you keep the same size tire.

Hope this helps.

-Mark
Old 04-07-2016 | 04:29 AM
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Originally Posted by aaronware76
What size tire do you run? A 26,27,28"? Gearing? I'd like to know to get an idea of what will work for me. I know the chatter will break stuff. So a change is needed for sure. Also, what slick do you run? Mickey or Hoosier?
Mine are Mickeys. 26" tire, which actually measures right at 27". Not sure why they call it a 26". 4.11 gears. And my camaro is a pig, almost 3900lbs with me in it. Road Race style suspension, koni DA's and 1le springs, strano sway bars. Nothing crazy or drag specific.



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