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Nothing is as strong as a factory bumper support. If we made them to be as strong they wouldn't be light weight defeating the purpose of an aftermarket bumper support.
Unless you are doing a front mount intercooler, we do have a version that still supports the bumper but allows room to mount your intercooler up front.
Example-
Any pics of the rear?
I've been thinking about one from the front but most turbo setups I've seen guys seem to not run one period. So idk.
Again the rear one I wouldn't remove the rear until it's a full track car, getting rear ended is a lot more of a threat if you are careful... And the weight back that far isn't going to hurt most cars anyway.
Again the rear one I wouldn't remove the rear until it's a full track car, getting rear ended is a lot more of a threat if you are careful... And the weight back that far isn't going to hurt most cars anyway.
That's why mine is still in there.
Right now mine freakin hooks better than I ever imagined on the street even on 295/50 nankang street tires .. i've gutted everything possible from the drivers seat forwards, even my engine/transmission is moved back 1" over typical ls1 fbody, and ive left all the rear end stock weight even including the spare wheel and jack
I'll only remove all the weight out of the rear when trying for an all out 1/4 mile pass on slicks and only after getting the suspension working as good as possible
Again the rear one I wouldn't remove the rear until it's a full track car, getting rear ended is a lot more of a threat if you are careful... And the weight back that far isn't going to hurt most cars anyway.
Yes and no... at the end of the day the car will still be totaled out regardless of what support is back there If hit hard enough because the car is older and they arent worth much to insurance companies
Really light wheels are expensive. There may be better gains per dollar. Light wheels generally mean thinner, which some people may not want to run. Really really light setups like say a Bogart and a Moroso DS2 is not street friendly at all. These arent options for lots of folks.
You may already know or practice this but, concentrate your efforts on the front of the car, removing weight from the windshield posts forward (A-pillars) has the most effect. All of it has been mentioned, battery relocation, light hood, bumper support bracket, A/C system pieces, lighter brakes and front wheels etc.. all helps the pitch and roll weight transfer thing when launching. Fbody has an advantage already, the motor sits back compared to most cars. Avoid iron blocks, that's 100 plus added to the nose. My 2 cents.
You may already know or practice this but, concentrate your efforts on the front of the car, removing weight from the windshield posts forward (A-pillars) has the most effect. All of it has been mentioned, battery relocation, light hood, bumper support bracket, A/C system pieces, lighter brakes and front wheels etc.. all helps the pitch and roll weight transfer thing when launching. Fbody has an advantage already, the motor sits back compared to most cars. Avoid iron blocks, that's 100 plus added to the nose. My 2 cents.
For a little motivation, I just pulled my door bars and rear bumper support but I don't drive my car on the street As mentioned, weight removal on a street car is a compromise. There are ton of nice weight reduction parts but generally, the bang for you buck isn't great. With where you are at, it is more cost effective to add power than reduce weight IMO.
My car without driver is now around 2975 full of gas. I do not have any front end suspension lightening other than coilovers. I have an uninstalled tubular K member but struggling to justify buying tubular control arms, manual rack and drag brakes to install at the same time. I'm sure I'd save close to 100lb. with everything but for well over $2k, adding 10hp/10 lb. ft. of torque across the board is cheaper if you just care about ET AND can put the power down consistently.
I'd like to run a small fuel cell up front but more than likely would end up putting ballast in the back of the car to make it repeat on a junk track.
FWIW, I have no rear bumper support and got rear-ended by a mid 90's f250 going about 40 mph and car wasn't nearly as bad as I thought before I got out. All it did was push in the rear hatch metal in and bowed the bumper cover out, didn't break glass or even a tail light. Body shop pulled it out and was good to go. But a good support will help against bumper sag if long enough.
08-25-2016, 11:58 AM
As mentioned, weight removal on a street car is a compromise. There are ton of nice weight reduction parts but generally, the bang for you buck isn't great. With where you are at, it is more cost effective to add power than reduce weight IMO. 
