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Old Nov 20, 2016 | 12:54 PM
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So this is my first post and since i don't care about anything but drag racing with my current car and this is my first ls1 i thought this is a perfect forum to put my first post. So i have a 99 ws6 A4 with about 135k on the clock it runs strong and my best time so far is a 13.6 with skinnies and DRs. My ultimate goal is 10's so my question is based on your guys opinions where would be the best place to focus my attention to first after i do the basic maintenance it needs. Suspension, rear end or just jump right into power adders n20, hci, FI whatever i choose?
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Old Nov 20, 2016 | 02:04 PM
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Converter.Converter .Converter! These are 11 second capable cars with a converter,exhaust,and gears.
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Old Nov 20, 2016 | 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by nj02z
Converter.Converter .Converter! These are 11 second capable cars with a converter,exhaust,and gears.
Any idea on stall size
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Old Nov 20, 2016 | 03:58 PM
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Yank 4000 SS. Capable of 1.54 60' with no other mods then those listed full weight.
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Old Nov 20, 2016 | 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by nj02z
Yank 4000 SS. Capable of 1.54 60' with no other mods then those listed full weight.
OK, first on my list
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Old Nov 20, 2016 | 09:41 PM
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I agree. 4k convertor, trans cooler and tune. That's where I'd start. You may need a little suspension work after that to help your 60'.

Also, if it's a drag-focused car and not a daily driver, weight reduction. There is a weight reduction sticky on here. You don't need A/C in CT
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Old Nov 20, 2016 | 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by gesto
I agree. 4k convertor, trans cooler and tune. That's where I'd start. You may need a little suspension work after that to help your 60'.

Also, if it's a drag-focused car and not a daily driver, weight reduction. There is a weight reduction sticky on here. You don't need A/C in CT
Its purpose will be drag but since I don't have a trailer or anything it will still have to be street able enough to drive the 90min to the track, the ac is already gone lol
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Old Nov 21, 2016 | 11:09 AM
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Weight savings is were I would start, then some shocks, adjustable suspension items, and then a rear end because by this time yours will most likely be ready for replacement. Once you get good data there let the times tell you what you need as far as gearing and possible stall speed. Knowing your power adder will also determine your stall speed.
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Old Nov 21, 2016 | 02:42 PM
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There are no suspension items that will put you in the 11s. A converter will with stock torque arm ,shocks ,or anything else. Call Yank converters they will point you in the right direction. 4000 SS ,3.73 gears ,26" tire. Unless you have a BIG budget I would start here because it gets expensive real quick.

Last edited by nj02z; Nov 21, 2016 at 02:47 PM.
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Old Nov 21, 2016 | 05:15 PM
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A converter is the lifeblood of an auto trans car no doubt, but the real story is as soon as you put more torque down and get that wheel hop thing happening then you will be buying a rearend and a driveshaft. So... in most cases you will want to package some suspension items with your converter to compliment each other and enjoy it for a while until you can swing a good rearend like a MWC fabricated 9" package.
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Old Nov 22, 2016 | 05:58 AM
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Well my end goal will be hci with some spray and a built rear I just wanted to prioritize the parts I get in the best bang for the buck level, so far everyone I talk to says converter then open up exhaust built rear etc.
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Old Nov 22, 2016 | 11:33 AM
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you already have skinnys and dr's - good start now 4k to 4500 convertor since its primarily drag and will be in lockup on the highway for your drive to the track

long tubes ,true duals

intakes both cold air/ram air and intake manifold upgrades fast or ls6 intake of course tune will be needed for all this to work properly

weight removal by the time all this is done you will be solid in the 11's and can add a few suspension components to help it chip its way down the 11's drag bar , good shocks , lca's or relocation brackets.

Then you can decide whether to go power adder or maybe just cam at that point to break into 10's but if your plan is definitely 10's cage is going to be part of your needs as well.
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Old Nov 22, 2016 | 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by nj02z
There are no suspension items that will put you in the 11s. A converter will with stock torque arm ,shocks ,or anything else. Call Yank converters they will point you in the right direction. 4000 SS ,3.73 gears ,26" tire. Unless you have a BIG budget I would start here because it gets expensive real quick.
Yeah mild budget, is it even worth gearing a 10 bolt?

Last edited by angrybird99; Nov 22, 2016 at 12:47 PM.
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Old Nov 22, 2016 | 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by angrybird99
Yeah mild budget, is it even worth gearing a 10 bolt?
The 10 bolt in my wife's car lasted for 300 plus runs with 3:73 .That car is raced every weekend and sometimes twice a week.It eventually let go but it lasted a while. We made the switch to a 9" but that is 3k plus investment.
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Old Nov 22, 2016 | 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by nj02z
The 10 bolt in my wife's car lasted for 300 plus runs with 3:73 .That car is raced every weekend and sometimes twice a week.It eventually let go but it lasted a while. We made the switch to a 9" but that is 3k plus investment.
Fair enough lol
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Old Nov 22, 2016 | 07:08 PM
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nj02z, did that 10 bolt have a stock torque arm, or aftermarket? 300 passes is pretty good if you were running 11's leaving on a big stall.
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Old Nov 23, 2016 | 04:39 AM
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Originally Posted by gesto
nj02z, did that 10 bolt have a stock torque arm, or aftermarket? 300 passes is pretty good if you were running 11's leaving on a big stall.
Stock suspension. I did not replace the torque arm until the 9" went in. The only thing I did to the 10 bolt that seemed to help was use a solid pinion spacer.
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