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First thing that comes to mind when I read the question was ceramic bearings. All the max effort heads up racers run them or want to add them that's for sure. No one I've asked has actually documented et gain or seen a difference to point back to them. Probaby because picking up a couple hundredths on a ultra/x275 etc 1/8 mile car is tough! Not many 9 or 10 second cars have them but you could probably see a small difference in et on them. Sure does make the car easier to push!
most common is putting skinny front tires on at the track or pumping up your current fronts as far s your comfortable , I usually go around 60psi.
of course if a brake is hanging up that would cause rolling resistance.
lighter wheels and tires will reduce rolling resistance.
too much rear tire - more than needed to hook up can add rolling resistance , you only want enough tire to get the job done.
type of rear tire can help too depending on auto or manual a drag radial will usually have less resistance than a slick , a stiff sidewall dr could probably help that as well as long as you can still hook , less energy lost to tire squirm etc...
a 7.5 10 bolt will have less rolling resistance than a s60 , less gear contact friction , this would be fine behind a 350hp auto but wouldn't make sense behind a 500 hp manual lol
[QUOTE=ATwelveSec02Z28;19540236]I have ceramic bearings through the rear, along with lightening of several components . There are gains, and that is all I am at liberty to say.
Hahah that's pretty much the answer everyone has given me
Well I recently picked up some weld rts wheels. Bigs and skinnies. Weighed them and the stock 10spokes tonight. 20lbs difference per wheel/tire on the fronts between The skinnies and stockers. 6lbs shaved on the rear set.
Had to replace my front brake pads in the process found out that one piston on each front caliper was sticking. So I tore them down cleaned the gunk that was making it stick off the piston and out of the bores. Replaced all the seals. Now they slide nicely in the bores. Gonna check the rears this weekend see if they are sticking too.
Everything mentioned above for sure but some things you can do for little or no $.
Clean and wax your paint job, wax your windshield too.
Remove your antenna.
Remove your right side mirror.
Remove your wiper blades and arms.
Remove your front license plate and holder.
most importantly, align your front end with minimal toe in, 1/32 or so, 0-.25* neg. camber and get the caster as even as possible side to side (cross caster)
There are quite a few things you can do to net you some solid gains such as aftermarket drag tires and wheel aftermarket drag brakes if it is a t56 car you can run a lightweight flywheel and driveshaft and like some of the others above mentioned you can have the all the bearings in the rearend and wheel bearings sent to Micro Blue and have them do there magic.
It's an auto. Factory Aluminun drive shaft. Not going to sink any money into the rear end it's 10 bolt with 3.42s that's getting sloppy... Just waiting for it to brake lol
just want to hit 11.xx with bolt-ons currently at 12.57@106.79
its not going to take much to get your 11.99 , I have 2 cars both far from full bolt ons that have run 11.9 &12.1 , the 12.1 car had a fuel delivery issue or it would be an 11.9 car as well. both cars trapped 111/112 respectively so you need to make a bit more power to get to 11.9's although I am sure an optimized car that 60 foots great could get there on a 108/109 trap. On the other end is where you really need to improve get that 60 foot into the 1.6's and you will be very low 12's.
What do you have for a convertor and tire ? 3600-4200 quality stall and just enough tire to hook it will get you in spitting distance
It's an auto. Factory Aluminun drive shaft. Not going to sink any money into the rear end it's 10 bolt with 3.42s that's getting sloppy... Just waiting for it to brake lol
just want to hit 11.xx with bolt-ons currently at 12.57@106.79
Best thing you can do in my opinion besides performance parts would be lighten the front end of the car. Move the battery to the back, k member, a arms, manual rack, coilovers, lightweight brakes and spindle will net you a lot of gains.
LIGHTWEIGHT 15" front wheels and tires will give you good gains also. It will also make the 10bolt live longer
98' z28. 100% Stock motor w/159xxx w/ Lt headers, 3" ory "shity kind of merge" bullet and turn down, diy p&p on the maf, udp, lid, k&n filter that I've cleaned and don't oil, 3.42's, northtexasconverters 3600 stall, trans built by me, tuned by me with HPT lol that rhymes. 275/40/17 Mt street ets on stock 10spokes. Qa1 single adj coilovers front n Qa1 single adj shock rear
Only weight out of it is the spare n jack and no front sway bar, Im 150 wet lol
next time out I'll be on 15x4.5 and 15x10 weld rts wheels with MT et street radial pro 275/60/15 and a MT sportsman S/R 26x6
when I ran the 12.57 I was getting some knock retard
I'm hoping that the front brakes being in check now will help a lot. I could barely turn the rotor and hub with the wheel off before I rebuilt the calipers. Now they spin very nice n easily. In hindsight I feel like that's why I could never trap faster than 107
I'm hoping that the front brakes being in check now will help a lot. I could barely turn the rotor and hub with the wheel off before I rebuilt the calipers. Now they spin very nice n easily. In hindsight I feel like that's why I could never trap faster than 107
It will help you some but reducing the weight of the rotating mass such as tires, wheels and brakes will net you much greater gains,
98' z28. 100% Stock motor w/159xxx w/ Lt headers, 3" ory "shity kind of merge" bullet and turn down, diy p&p on the maf, udp, lid, k&n filter that I've cleaned and don't oil, 3.42's, northtexasconverters 3600 stall, trans built by me, tuned by me with HPT lol that rhymes. 275/40/17 Mt street ets on stock 10spokes. Qa1 single adj coilovers front n Qa1 single adj shock rear
Only weight out of it is the spare n jack and no front sway bar, Im 150 wet lol
next time out I'll be on 15x4.5 and 15x10 weld rts wheels with MT et street radial pro 275/60/15 and a MT sportsman S/R 26x6
when I ran the 12.57 I was getting some knock retard
What changes have you made to the tune?
The Welds will help, but I think going from a 26" tire to a 28" tire is going to negate the gains of the lighter wheels.
I recently changed from the old ET Street 275/50/15 to a 27x10x15 M&H Slick and the weight difference of a bias ply slick to a drag radial to me was night and day.
My car is similar to yours, but it is a 99. I have a TH400 with a ~3600 FTI Converter, 3.42 gear, long tubes - no exhaust otherwise, lid, free mods, and some stuff taken out for weight. I've been 7.75 in the 1/8th at SGMP in good air, and 12.37 in Orlando in decent air.
My car is a track only car, no AC, no EGR, no AIR, no front sway bar, no front fender liners, and maybe a few other things I can think of, but I'm much heavier than you are at 150 soaking wet lol.
What are your shifts at? I shift my car at 5500rpm.
I've just cleaned up the tune minor adjustments to VE tables, adj for the stall. shift points are 6200 I believe been quite some time since I tuned it can't remember off hand exactly but made multiple passes with diff shift points left it were it ran the best Et. And the 275/60/15 were on the wheels when I bought them I would rather be on a 26" vs the 28" but for what I paid for the wheels n tires I basically got the rear tires free.
Get your gearing right for running the 28" tire. You'll have better luck with the additional sidewall
.
I get what you're saying but I'd rather run the gears and rear end I have till it blows .So the 28" will have to go. Once the rear end is toast ... I'll be doing some twinkies n a rear end and xxxx
02-19-2017, 08:41 PM
