Who to go with for custom cut engine plate?
Who to go with for custom cut engine plate? I've been working with AEI to get a custom engine plate made, but for some reason after several e-mails and phone calls, I haven't seem to be able to reach them. I would 100% go with their plate, but it's possible that maybe something that has happened that hasn't allowed the owner to respond back?
Either way, since the engine plate is the next biggest step in my project before I can move forward, I am looking to see if you guys have any recommendations on other engine plate makers that can do custom cuts to fit my application.
Let me know.
Thanks!
Either way, since the engine plate is the next biggest step in my project before I can move forward, I am looking to see if you guys have any recommendations on other engine plate makers that can do custom cuts to fit my application.
Let me know.
Thanks!
I bought an ICT Billet front plate, and it is cut to fit. I have no experience with others. One thing you should investigate it is the plate is clearanced to clear the drivers side cylinder head. Ask the company. If they don't know what you're talking about, then they didn't clearance it. lol. The ICT's are not clearanced. Found that out the hard way.
I think I asked Bob too many questions and scared him off, which can be understandable haha.
Hardest part for me is finding an engine plate that has threads at the water pump mounts so I can run fittings for a remote pump. Most plates have the square openings, which I wouldn't be able to tap.
Hardest part for me is finding an engine plate that has threads at the water pump mounts so I can run fittings for a remote pump. Most plates have the square openings, which I wouldn't be able to tap.
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Verdad Gallardo I mean, I am all about making things myself. I just made my own custom 2500hp capable A2W intercooler. But when it comes to this, I would rather buy the ICT billet plate, and modify that one versus having to CAD draw out the timing cover, and get a blank plate waterjetted, etc. The ICT plate is cheap and would be a good starting point. It just needs a little work.
Looks pretty sweet. I think I am just going to have to make my own plate, since pretty much everyone I see who offers the front engine plates don't have threads for remote water pump fittings.
Most plates also look like they only mainly use the 3 10mm water pump bolts to hold each side of the engine. I'd probably want them to attach to more points around the alternator/cylinder heads as well, just for peace of mind really.
Most plates also look like they only mainly use the 3 10mm water pump bolts to hold each side of the engine. I'd probably want them to attach to more points around the alternator/cylinder heads as well, just for peace of mind really.
Looks pretty sweet. I think I am just going to have to make my own plate, since pretty much everyone I see who offers the front engine plates don't have threads for remote water pump fittings.
Most plates also look like they only mainly use the 3 10mm water pump bolts to hold each side of the engine. I'd probably want them to attach to more points around the alternator/cylinder heads as well, just for peace of mind really.
Most plates also look like they only mainly use the 3 10mm water pump bolts to hold each side of the engine. I'd probably want them to attach to more points around the alternator/cylinder heads as well, just for peace of mind really.
For example, this kit would still work, although you may just have to buy slightly longer bolts is all.
It's true that I can just buy the adaptors, but this is going to go into a swap, which I don't have much forward room (talking about a few inches), so if I can gain space in any way I'm going to try to go for that first.
Also, the adaptors from what I've found all almost cost as much as the mounting plate itself haha.
One last reason is also the simple I can make it the better. Less gaskets and pieces will mean less places that water can leak out from, etc.
For the steel bolts, I'm not really worried about them breaking as much as the extra stress that the smaller aluminum threads on the block may have to deal with. Probably a moot point anyways, cause if everyone are just using the water pump bolts, then it probably means it has to work.
Also, the adaptors from what I've found all almost cost as much as the mounting plate itself haha.
One last reason is also the simple I can make it the better. Less gaskets and pieces will mean less places that water can leak out from, etc.
For the steel bolts, I'm not really worried about them breaking as much as the extra stress that the smaller aluminum threads on the block may have to deal with. Probably a moot point anyways, cause if everyone are just using the water pump bolts, then it probably means it has to work.
TECH Regular
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 431
Likes: 1
From: Washington
Sorry. Got sidetracked last night
Like you I wanted all the bolts. And even made an angle bracket for the lower passenger side that catches two block bolts and the engine plate and made some spacers for the passenger head
Here are my construction pics. I made a template from the timing cover gasket to route it into the plate itself. A small trim router will work and I bet you can field cut the depth which is like .045 iirc for the drivers head
1/4 inch alum should be more than plenty to tap for an oring boss fitting for the water jackets. I've since installed the Mezzire street pump and love it
To seal the plate to the block, I used my diegrinder and cut in like an oring groove around each port and installed it with black rtv silicone. No leaks in 1.5 years
Edit, I also did a mid plate from 3/16 alum. It bolts to the subframe and the upper firewall area. My ish is locked in there good!
Like you I wanted all the bolts. And even made an angle bracket for the lower passenger side that catches two block bolts and the engine plate and made some spacers for the passenger head
Here are my construction pics. I made a template from the timing cover gasket to route it into the plate itself. A small trim router will work and I bet you can field cut the depth which is like .045 iirc for the drivers head
1/4 inch alum should be more than plenty to tap for an oring boss fitting for the water jackets. I've since installed the Mezzire street pump and love it
To seal the plate to the block, I used my diegrinder and cut in like an oring groove around each port and installed it with black rtv silicone. No leaks in 1.5 years
Edit, I also did a mid plate from 3/16 alum. It bolts to the subframe and the upper firewall area. My ish is locked in there good!
Last edited by Nathaninwa; Apr 27, 2017 at 03:36 PM.
Sorry. Got sidetracked last night
Like you I wanted all the bolts. And even made an angle bracket for the lower passenger side that catches two block bolts and the engine plate and made some spacers for the passenger head
Here are my construction pics. I made a template from the timing cover gasket to route it into the plate itself. A small trim router will work and I bet you can field cut the depth which is like .045 iirc for the drivers head
1/4 inch alum should be more than plenty to tap for an oring boss fitting for the water jackets. I've since installed the Mezzire street pump and love it
To seal the plate to the block, I used my diegrinder and cut in like an oring groove around each port and installed it with black rtv silicone. No leaks in 1.5 years
Edit, I also did a mid plate from 3/16 alum. It bolts to the subframe and the upper firewall area. My ish is locked in there good!
Like you I wanted all the bolts. And even made an angle bracket for the lower passenger side that catches two block bolts and the engine plate and made some spacers for the passenger head
Here are my construction pics. I made a template from the timing cover gasket to route it into the plate itself. A small trim router will work and I bet you can field cut the depth which is like .045 iirc for the drivers head
1/4 inch alum should be more than plenty to tap for an oring boss fitting for the water jackets. I've since installed the Mezzire street pump and love it
To seal the plate to the block, I used my diegrinder and cut in like an oring groove around each port and installed it with black rtv silicone. No leaks in 1.5 years
Edit, I also did a mid plate from 3/16 alum. It bolts to the subframe and the upper firewall area. My ish is locked in there good!
That plate looks awesome Nathan. What are the bolts attached to on the bottom passenger side there?
I made my template today and going to go to the local water jet guy to see if they can cut it based on my drawing/template.
One thing I noticed is that the water pump openings are roughly 1.25" in diameter. However, it seems like most people use -12an or 3/4" fittings on there? Is that too restrictive or what is the consensus on that?
-Don
I made my template today and going to go to the local water jet guy to see if they can cut it based on my drawing/template.
One thing I noticed is that the water pump openings are roughly 1.25" in diameter. However, it seems like most people use -12an or 3/4" fittings on there? Is that too restrictive or what is the consensus on that?
-Don
TECH Regular
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 431
Likes: 1
From: Washington
The lower passenger side is a piece of 2x5 angle like 2-1/2 tall that bolts to what I think is tue old air conditioning tensioner mount are on the block. There is actually three tapped holes down there
I think -12 is fine, I feel the restriction in the thermostat is greater, along with the head gaskets
I think -12 is fine, I feel the restriction in the thermostat is greater, along with the head gaskets
The lower passenger side is a piece of 2x5 angle like 2-1/2 tall that bolts to what I think is tue old air conditioning tensioner mount are on the block. There is actually three tapped holes down there
I think -12 is fine, I feel the restriction in the thermostat is greater, along with the head gaskets
I think -12 is fine, I feel the restriction in the thermostat is greater, along with the head gaskets
I want to do a NPT tap, but not sure how I can properly get the taper to tap on there.