blackbyrd

iTrader: (14)

I had planned on getting new lines and fittings when I did it, I eventually want to run the CTSV gen 2 brakes up front. I like the black brake lines you can get even though they have the fittings on them. Im not a fan of the stock line and I had to reshape some of it when I did my swap ( umi Kmember) so Id prefer to replace it all. Make sure im understanding this correctly, the OE master is pre proportioned or just aftermarket options.

My plan was ditch the abs module use the wildwood valve and keep the booster and OE master. then redo all the lines and upgrade the front calipers. Its more about cleaning up the engine bay than about the brakes though.

on compression's given my experience with them, if I were to go that route id likely replace the lines with a thicker walled tubing to address the same concern. factory stuff is a little to brittle for me.

pdxmotorhead

The compression fittings can fail at the grip ring due to corrosion or vibration, basically the flare is a fail safe to keep the tube in the hole if something happens to hook on it, less likely to pull out.. If you hate making flares that much use pre-flared sections of bendable brake line,, I typically have needed 2 pieces to reach each brake caliper or slave cylinder on the car, and I also use crimped braided lines for the MC to frame and frame to brakes.. Note that the only difference between DOT approved and non dot approved braided line is whether the manufacturer went to the trouble to do some paperwork.. YMMV..

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

This is true, which is why Ive inspected each one ive taken apart so that I can better understand the engineering behind how they work. From my personal experience, there is a way and an amount to tighten them, follow the instructions and they work as designed. And this may sound silly but when they are done per the instructions, its very obvious. Example: Finger tight plus 1 full turn, well at one full turn youre bearing down on the fitting and it seems right to stop, exactly when they say. When you remove that fitting you'll find the line properly crimped and secured but not obstructed. Wonderful little inventions they are. Typical 6-8k psi rating.

fastsspr

iTrader: (49)

To set up the proportioning valve for the SJM kit, how complicated it can be?

pdxmotorhead

What isn't being said, is that unlike most industrial applications, brakes create very very high pressure spikes in the line and they do it for extended periods of time that most industrial applications don't see. I've run pressure transducers on brake lines and seen 12K PSI spikes, it acts like a hammer in the line which can add to the stress points in the system, I had a car with wave rotors that kept cracking the housing of the calipers, Ended up going to a different rotor, but we were amazed at the number we got on the loggers at 150 on the straight..

I've been involved in failures at the track that were the result of compression fittings giving out, it was definitely pilot error on the install, one of the advantages of a flare is you know its bad if it is, because 99% of the time it will leak, immediately. A bad compression fitting will hold pressure for a while.

Not saying its impossible to run them, a careful and patient installer can likely have good results but too often the install is at 1:00Am when someone is up against the rope trying to get a car ready. We used to call it the midnight thrash too many mistakes get made.. Good car prep wins races.

On a hard run competition car the lines should be changed every 2 race seasons in road or dirt racing, not everybody does. They get run hot then let sit, get damp, etc. then a line split or a hose failure..

Good luck ALL!
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