When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hello guys ,I started to make this car faster and reliable . So i decided to share with you my ideas and the progress. Last time the car was in the track was like it said in my signature.
Now i decided to make the car faster in a low budget. First thing i decided was to make it lighter.The Camaro is a factory stripper no power accessories of any kind. When it ran 12.75 was at 3320 pounds without me in, with 1/4 tank of gas. Still have AC and stereo;
Now in this round i installed a 25% UD pulley , BMR turbo K member , Performabuild Transmission with 4K yank, a UMI tunnel mount TA and a XS Power mini battery.
My expectation is to loose 30lbs in k member, the UMI TA weight 32.2 and the factory TA was 17 lbs so at this point i loose 15lbs net in this move. Now the stall full of ATF is like 15lbs difference and the battery my optima red top is 30.0lbs the XS Power is 14.7lbs. In the stall i think i loose like 10 to 15lbs. I loose like 45lbs in weight not counting rotating mass.
I hope to gain like .5 to .7 of a second in the 1/4 if the car hook well.
Any toughs and suggestions are welcome.
Last edited by fastsspr; Aug 23, 2017 at 12:32 AM.
Nice round of mods you did. So many just add horsepower but don't think of strategic weight reduction and suspension mods. Might want to look into changing your y-pipe Yours looks restrictive. Also don't lower your car too much with that tq arm. It clear exhaust well but it will take up the highway on big bumps. Another thing is if you decide to replace the rear at some point you can get a 9in that has a lot lighter tq arm
Concentrate on weight reduction...there is a lot of weight to loose without spending any money. I dropped 451# so far and still have stock K and battery. I do have the same TA and it is works great (does sit low though, as mentioned).
I was running 12.89 with Kooks headers and duals, slp cai, and tune. Stock stall and 2.73s.
I put in a performabuilt lvl 2 4L60, FTI 4,000 stall, bmr chromoly torque arm, & et streets on the stock rims and went 12.29. So shaving .7 off your et is certainly doable.
You will need to have your shift points retuned. Mine would hit the rev limiter before shifting after I put the stall in, but a good tuner can fix this in a few minutes.
And the the key is traction. Make sure you have a good drag radial or you'll be disappointed.
Nice round of mods you did. So many just add horsepower but don't think of strategic weight reduction and suspension mods. Might want to look into changing your y-pipe Yours looks restrictive. Also don't lower your car too much with that tq arm. It clear exhaust well but it will take up the highway on big bumps. Another thing is if you decide to replace the rear at some point you can get a 9in that has a lot lighter tq arm
---Thanks yes i collected some parts to make this round.
Yes i know my y pipe is restrictive.I bought the headers and y pipe used and installed then like they came but i have a set of use kooks 1 7/8 with a goo y pipe that i going to buy to make a better exhaust. The car not going to be lowered.At this point i going to let the 10bolt suffer some punishment.
Originally Posted by AnotherWs6
Good stuff. But yeah, the Y pipe is pretty bad, I'd look into ditching that thing.
---Yes i know that about the y pipe i going to wait till i get the next headers.
Originally Posted by ragtopz28
Concentrate on weight reduction...there is a lot of weight to loose without spending any money. I dropped 451# so far and still have stock K and battery. I do have the same TA and it is works great (does sit low though, as mentioned).
---Thanks, yes i tried to make a difference of at least 50 pounds in this round.
Yes i like the idea of weight reduction and saving money.Wow congratulations 451 is huge. I have no issue with clearance with my TA so Im happy with it.
Originally Posted by jhshnh
I was running 12.89 with Kooks headers and duals, slp cai, and tune. Stock stall and 2.73s.
I put in a performabuilt lvl 2 4L60, FTI 4,000 stall, bmr chromoly torque arm, & et streets on the stock rims and went 12.29. So shaving .7 off your et is certainly doable.
---Nice time with this those mods. Like to know your experience because it let me know my goals are realistic. Congratulations nice job.
You will need to have your shift points retuned. Mine would hit the rev limiter before shifting after I put the stall in, but a good tuner can fix this in a few minutes.
---Yes i know that i can fit that with HPT.
And the the key is traction. Make sure you have a good drag radial or you'll be disappointed.
Originally Posted by gesto
Good progress!
---Yes a have a Bogarts dragpack with MT SS DR 26 x 10 hope to hook well with this.
I going to use this thread to keep documenting my results and mods for the benefit group. I going to go to the track next month to see the results.
Next round in the list:
1 7/8 headers and better y pipe
adj. shocks and springs
front and rear bumper delete bars.
I expected more from that verter, like the .5 to .7 you expected. When you say no dyno tune does that mean no re calibration to the trans either? If my track would hook 1/2 way and I could pull a 1.7 I would've picked up 1.59 seconds from same mods plus headers/exhaust.
Thanks for the help with the trans calibration.Is working like a champ. Next weekend I going to install F/R MWC bumper supports , rear double adj. Vikings ,solid adj. MWC lca and carpet delete to test it Saturday.
Originally Posted by Jenson
I expected more from that verter, like the .5 to .7 you expected. When you say no dyno tune does that mean no re calibration to the trans either? If my track would hook 1/2 way and I could pull a 1.7 I would've picked up 1.59 seconds from same mods plus headers/exhaust.
Yes I expected some more from the verter too, is a lot to keep fine tunning. I re calibrated the transmission and play with some base timing and fuel. But with a Dyno tune is a lot easier to find the tune that maximize the combo. Another factor that play a big role in my car is I'm 4000' above sea lever and for a NA motor is less oxygen.
[/QUOTE]
Originally Posted by BennyB
Nice work!
Thanks
I keep you guys posted in the progress. Goal is to touch 11.9xx with stock motor ac,stereo and daily driver on pump gas with 208,+++ miles in the motor.
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Slideshow: The controversial Ferrari F6 swaps its original flat-12 for a Corvette Z06-derived LT4 V8 and sends power to four rear wheels through a custom-built drivetrain.
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Slideshow:These GM engines didn't just make huge power, they survived abuse, boost, track days, and six-digit mileage with a reputation for refusing to quit.
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Slideshow: From wobbling harmonic balancers to failed EBCMs, these are the issues that define long-term C5 ownership and what repairs typically involve.
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Slideshow: A modern Camaro transformed into a retro icon, this limited-run "Bandit" build blends nostalgia with brute force in a way few revivals manage.
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Slideshow: Cadillac didn't just crash the high-performance luxury vehicle party, it showed up loud, supercharged, and occasionally a little unhinged...
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Slideshow: A one-off sports car that looks like a vintage Italian exotic-but hides a C6 Corvette underneath-just sold for the price of a new mid-engine Corvette.
Sharing my Camaro diet and mods progress. 
