What kit would you go with, what would I need, and why? I'm looking for 9's on the stock shortblock.

 

personally, i think it can be done easily.

id go with the best.

TNT F1 (Pro #4 purge)
NX heater
NOS or otherwise progressive controller
and a window switch if you want one...

NX makes a killer kit as well. the Iceman solenoids are HUGE and very nice.

 

Don't forget to put a tighter stall in!

 

Also dont forget your fuel system!!
Walbro 340 with a big fat wire feeding it voltage would be nice <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> Also run 104 octane unleaded at the track <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
Chris

 

Do you think I will be good with my MAFT set to 20% rich and pilled w/100 fuel jets and 75 nitrous jets?? Also on 100 octane...

I'm on the stock fuel pump for now, but I just want to spray the 75 to see how it is... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

 

So is the TNT F1 the best kit? What about the F2? Are you limited to a 150 shot? I want to start with a 75 and move on up. Is a progressive controller even necessary with smaller shots, up to 150?

I'll definately run race gas and use TR6's and put in a Walbro. Which in-tank pump would you recommend? What is the fuel system ARE is working on? Are the stock fuel lines adequate for a 150 shot?

I understand a tighter convertor would work better. How much would I gain by using a 3600E for example? I just want to go 9's for now. No big deal. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> The TP4400 probably would get me there.

 

Scott the TP4400 will not work, you'll pick up maybe .2ths with a 100 shot. Get a PYE3600 and run a TNT 150 wet shot for a chance at 9s. A TH350 will be needed also I bet. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

 

Let's place a copy of this in the N2O section... <img border="0" alt="[Burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" />

 

I'll try it with my convertor first. I'm not so sure the stock rear-end will live either. I've got a TH350 laying around though. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

Colonel:

Can I get a link to your NOS writeup? I appreciate it.

 

That trans will take a dump pretty fast....you gonna spray through the shifts.. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

on a 100 shot its most likely going to flash to 6000 on spray.... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />

 

The TNT wet kit works very good. Its very consistant on the dyno on my SS and the tr6 plugs look like they should.I too have pondered the 9 second stock short block idea and have concluded that yes, it can be done, but, not too many times without breaking the motor. I feel since I'm running consistant 11.40's in the heat with stock internals, a 230,230,.586 on a 114, 11.2-1, 300@.550I, 237@.550E 5.3 heads, 3.73 gears, 28 inch slicks, Yank extreme 3600,TH350-400 with a brake, twin 255 pumps, full open exhaust and raceweight 3100. This is what I will have by the fall(I have all the parts and half the time).The worries for me are the pistons. They just cant take but so much for so long from my 3 years of LS1 observations.If you detonate,its over. I'm planning on progressive launch of 100 on the brake and the next 100 in by 2 seconds. If 200 aint enough, try the 250.I need a good reason to build an iron block/stroker/turbo setup and a grenaded shortblock would suffice.

 

Big intank, racing gas, colder plugs.

You can spray with your current converter but it will flash to like 5500 out of the hole and you'll be over 6000 the whole run down the track.

 

Sounds like a 3600E is the way to go. This is sounding like a pretty big project. I'm thinking I'll go ahead and she what she'll do NA first and spray this winter.

I'm going to test some cams out and swap heads and do it over. And see what I find.

Y2K:

That'll be a stout combo for sure. You definately could go 9's. More gearing might be better though with the 28's. I'll be testing my new 28's with 4.10's this weekend.

 

That converter will not work well on a 150 shot. I would definitely consider looking at a PYE 3600-4100 stall.
Chris

 

9s on the stock shortblock have already been done, by a C5 no less with heads cam and a dual stage NX setup in Austria. Save the motor and the hassle of buying a new converter etc and just get a better cam and maybe redo the heads?

 

Throw in a set of champion s57c plugs. That is a pure race plug, non projected tip, cut back electrode with no resistor. Used them myself for a while and the first 10 sec ls1 f-body with a bone stock shortblock stock heads/cam with a dual stage(Hacker Joe)used them on my advice. :pat on back: <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
Tr6's are good and I use them all the time but s57c Champs are way better for the bottle. That is if you value your motor as any wet manifold T.B. system will suffer from distribution variances AND DO NOT LET ANYBODY BULLSHIT YOU ON THAT! The firing order makes sure this happens in any V8 even with a great intake manifold. Why do you think pro mods stagger jet dual stages??
It gets worse the stronger your motor is.
That one lean cylinder that might happen will appreciate that nice cold plug that won't glow red hot so easy.
Run the best gas you can get.Run your timing at 24 degrees max.
DO NOT over retard the timing as this just sends out burning charge into the exhaust ports and overheats things like your pistons .

Your converter may be OK.It won't be optimal but may not be to bad. The big thing you need is about 500-700 spare rpm at the traps with your current combo.
Do you have that now?
Stock rear end eh? Well that is one big question mark.
And of course you need the extra fuel volume for 150 hp.
Take a few precautions and you won't be on the "I used nitrous and need to build a new motor" of the month club out there <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
Good luck 9's should be easy at your current level.
I ran 10.20's on the bottle with a 5.0 mustang that ran 12.2 N.A. without even trying.
Hey it was good at that time <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
pheeeew...

Or just ignore all this advice as it's just my .02 <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_tounge.gif" />

Steve

 

I doubt you'll gain much if anything using the tp4400.

Theres been several post of no gains to as little as .2 gains using juice and this converter.

 

It looks like I'll hold off on spraying for a while. I realize somebody has gone 9's on the stock shortblock, I don't care I just want to go faster. Believe it or not, I'm getting a little bored with 10.8's. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

I've got my hands on a nice TNT F1 kit with all the goods. It's just a matter of time now. I'll get my 10.50's NA first and go from there. If Terry pulls me with the new 388, I'll juice it. But I don't think he will. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> Besides with the spare 6.0L, what do I have to lose. Terry if you're out there, I found some 2.10 1.60 Titanium valves (used) for $150. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> I believe they're just over 5" long, stock is 4.915 and 4.9 if I remember correctly. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

SJH:

I REALLY appreciate that information. If/when I spray I'll use those plugs. I can use a taller tire to get 500-600 extra rpm, (28's) which are now installed for some NA testing. I'll have to do something about the timing for sure though.

I think I might just sell the TNT F1 kit and get a direct port fogger down the road. I want to spray a 300 shot on the 6.0L. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />

There were lots of reports that I couldn't go as fast as I have with the parts I'm using too. That hasn't stopped me. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Jantzer98SS:
<strong>Believe it or not, I'm getting a little bored with 10.8's. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Bored!?! haha I saw your 10.8 pass at sacramento raceway 6/15 nice run, can't wait to see you run 9s <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

 

That Austrian C5 supposedly went 9's, but it was not at a track and was done with some timing equipment setup up on a runway or something... So I am not 100% convinced that the conditions are right, since the timing equipment at a track does not take the time through the lights but what the average or something? So as far as I am concerned nobody has run 9's with a stock shorblock.

TNT F2 kit goes up to 300 shot and it's the kit that the MTI C5's have used for nines.

I wonder if a progressive controller could work around the big converter?

Buy my Yank TPE3600. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />