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Old Jul 6, 2004 | 10:26 PM
  #1  
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Default Battery relocation questions

Considering relocating my battery and have a few questions.
1) Is the summit aluminum box the only sealed box that will fit in the spare tire area?
2)What size wire should I use? I see summit sells a kit with 16ft of 1 gauge for $40. is that big enough? Can I get welder's cable cheaper?
3)What's the best spot to mount the disconnect switch? I think I prefer a regular switch over one with a lever. I considered mounting it where the rear hatch key hole was.
4) Will the stock battery work or should I get a red top(or something else)
Any other tips or suggestions? Thanks a ton.
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Old Jul 6, 2004 | 10:45 PM
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1) I use the jegs sealed aluminum box. I have it in my drivers side though on the shelf next to the t tops. i test fitted it in the passenger side. would not have fit without some dicking around.
2)1 guage is fine. it is what I have. that price seems right.
3)I have my switch throug the bottom center of my liscence plate. You will need to have yoru rear bumper support removed to use the switch without the T handle since the switch will need to mount in the bumper if you put in in the plate as i did. i would not put in in the keyhole, that would look rather odd. i have a smoked plate cover over my switch when not at the track and you can hardly notice the thing.
4)You cannot use the stock battery. you must use a dry cell such as the optima red top as you mention. I myself use the optima red top as well.
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Old Jul 6, 2004 | 10:47 PM
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here are some pics of my setup.





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Old Jul 6, 2004 | 11:33 PM
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Mine fit like a glove in the spare tire area. 1 Ga and even 2 Ga is likely going to be fine. You are going to need at least a couple sections of it though. One to run to the fuse box from the connected side and another to run to the alternator from the battery side.

I definitely prefer a red top over a liquid battery inside the car. As far as the switch goes, to each their own. I mounted mine in a spot that wouldn't be bothered by the t-tops or anything else. Here's the pics of how I ran everything.

http://www.derty.org/photogallery/ca....php?cat_id=47
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Old Jul 17, 2004 | 09:57 AM
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I am about to do this as well. Thanks for the pics Derty. I have a question though. There are 3 wires running from the pos terminal for the factory setup. I noticed you ran only two (in the pics). I am assuming this was to the fuse box and the alternator. Where did you run the wire to the starter? From the fuse box terminal?

Thanks,
Brad
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Old Jul 17, 2004 | 10:23 AM
  #6  
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
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Yes, one wire goes forward to the fuse box. I ran a wire splitter up front that sent one wire to the fuses and another over to the starter. The alternator wire came back and connected to the battery side of the disconnect. Point being, all power is provided on one side and all the items that require power are on the disconnect side of the switch.
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Old Jul 17, 2004 | 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by SilverGhost
1) I use the jegs sealed aluminum box. I have it in my drivers side though on the shelf next to the t tops. i test fitted it in the passenger side. would not have fit without some dicking around.
2)1 guage is fine. it is what I have. that price seems right.
3)I have my switch throug the bottom center of my liscence plate. You will need to have yoru rear bumper support removed to use the switch without the T handle since the switch will need to mount in the bumper if you put in in the plate as i did. i would not put in in the keyhole, that would look rather odd. i have a smoked plate cover over my switch when not at the track and you can hardly notice the thing.
4)You cannot use the stock battery. you must use a dry cell such as the optima red top as you mention. I myself use the optima red top as well.
Nice set up silverghost. I planned on putting the battery in the same place in my car. By any chance do you have a link to the battery box on Jegs? Thanks

Ross
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Old Jul 17, 2004 | 02:45 PM
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From: Fayettenam, North Cakalki
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Originally Posted by DERTY
Yes, one wire goes forward to the fuse box. I ran a wire splitter up front that sent one wire to the fuses and another over to the starter. The alternator wire came back and connected to the battery side of the disconnect. Point being, all power is provided on one side and all the items that require power are on the disconnect side of the switch.
Thanks alot Derty! I will be copying your setup it looks very clean and will definately not over tax the wires over the long distance.

Brad
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