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I want to wheelie, famous 1 wheel lift

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Old 10-19-2018, 06:26 AM
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Default I want to wheelie, famous 1 wheel lift

So Im wondering what to do to get the fbody famous one wheel wheelies?

And when you start changing the suspension, what makes it better or worse?

Whats better for wheelies, stock torque arm, am or tunnel mounted?
Old 10-19-2018, 06:31 AM
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Along with enough power a sticky tire and drag oriented suspension. Short style tunnel mounted torque arms will plant the tires harder as well
Old 10-19-2018, 06:41 AM
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Originally Posted by HCI2000SS
Along with enough power a sticky tire and drag oriented suspension. Short style tunnel mounted torque arms will plant the tires harder as well
MWC told me a M6 car does better with the longer arm... not the short one.
Old 10-19-2018, 06:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Tuskyz28
MWC told me a M6 car does better with the longer arm... not the short one.
Interesting. I've never heard that specifically about the M6 over the auto.
Old 10-19-2018, 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by HCI2000SS
Interesting. I've never heard that specifically about the M6 over the auto.
Call them today and see what response you get..... MWC have set two of buddies cars up. Both M6 cars.... both long arms from them.
Old 10-19-2018, 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Tuskyz28
Call them today and see what response you get..... MWC have set two of buddies cars up. Both M6 cars.... both long arms from them.
No I believe you, just never heard that before. I'm sure MWC knows more than me about it lol
Old 10-19-2018, 03:40 PM
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Oh boy, a lot to cover here

First, a long arm works better for stick shift or car making less than 600whp . It brings your instant center farther forward and puts more lift to the front end.

As for the one tire only wheelie, that is usually what people try to avoid. This is caused by suspension flex from the lack of sway bar/anti-roll bar on the rear. If you want it to do this for some reason, the simply remove your rear sway bar. But this is usually not consistent or good for the chassis
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Old 10-19-2018, 11:27 PM
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Best shot i got, stick car, shitty comp 3 way shocks, possibly a stock Sway bar. Viking coilovers. 27” Hoosier, 4.10, t56, just shy of 500whp, 3180 race weight.
Old 10-19-2018, 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by BMR Sales2
Oh boy, a lot to cover here

First, a long arm works better for stick shift or car making less than 600whp . It brings your instant center farther forward and puts more lift to the front end.

As for the one tire only wheelie, that is usually what people try to avoid. This is caused by suspension flex from the lack of sway bar/anti-roll bar on the rear. If you want it to do this for some reason, the simply remove your rear sway bar. But this is usually not consistent or good for the chassis

Thats good to know. But you mentioned its not good for the chassis?

Yea I want to pull some wheelies, 1 wheel because Im sure its alot easier to get there but Im definitely gona put more power into her soon after that and Ill be upgrading a bunch of suspension parts and come here asking on how to do it the right way
Old 10-21-2018, 07:30 AM
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BMR- all 600 RWHP are not the same/equal. A naturally aspirated car go hit the tires differently compared to a forced induction car.
Old 10-23-2018, 02:36 PM
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I have nothing to add but go ahead and set your goals higher and pull all 4 up!
Old 10-26-2018, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Tuskyz28
BMR- all 600 RWHP are not the same/equal. A naturally aspirated car go hit the tires differently compared to a forced induction car.
That's true. Then its usually a matter of if it is going to pull the wheels at the hit, or 20' out when the boost rolls in. You can run higher power with a longer arm, but usually thats when people start having trouble keeping the front end down. But like I said, there are many variables to consider when choosing torque arm length and style and desired instant center point
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Old 10-26-2018, 05:35 PM
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First off, wheelies are cool for pictures (if you going up, you're not going out!).
I was having serious twist, as in, driver tire 12-18" compared to only a couple of inches passenger side.
A call to a certain "Madman" for some shock settings and a ARB recommendation solved it (I have a short TA). "He" told me, you want the tires an inch or so off the ground ONLY, for max weight transfer and "moving out". With his setting, my 60' went from 1.46 to 1.34.




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