Cutting rear springs
Glenn
I have had my car like this for a year years since the 9" makes the back of the car sit up.
After a few years the radiator hose is not split and is doing fine.
The rate will be unsignificantly affected. My father designs coil springs for Rockwell and he cut his on his heads/cam Z28. What does that tell you?
Again, do not remove the rubber piece in the rear.
Next week the PT4000 is going in - I can't wait!
<strong>Don't take the rubber spacer out.
Again, do not remove the rubber piece in the rear.
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Why not? I've pulled mine out and had NO problems.
Could you substantiate this advise?
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I wasn't planning on writing 2000 words on raw steel chemistry, heat treatment of alloy steels, and factors influencing spring rates but I guess I could consider it if it's that important.
I'm not saying you'll have problems either way, just offering an engineer's opinion to the forum. There are no detrimental effects to cutting the spring unless you lower the car 2-3" and the shocks are bottomed out before you even take off.
If you want to take the doughnut out by all means please do, but I'd rather leave that nice sound deadening device in place while I cut the coil. JMO for whatever it's worth...
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I drove around without the cushions OR sleeving for an afternoon. Sounded like stuff was breaking off the car. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
The radiator hose trick works fine, no noises at all.
If you were to cut a progressive spring you would affect how stiff the spring is in comparison with the amount of suspension travel, and probably end up with a rougher riding car. A little movement would effectively put the spring where alot of movement used too.
But if the spring is a linear spring there should be no adverse affects when cutting it other than losing that nice flat coil seat.
FWIW, if you remove the rubber isolator, I'd use some nice thick heater hose on the spring vs. a thin flimsy piece of garden hose.
Spring rate on a coil spring is a factor of the wire diameter and the spacing between each coil. It is usually measured in pounds per inch (#/in). In other words how much force will it take to compress the spring an inch. For example the stock front springs are 290#/in. The 1LE springs are 360#/in - so they are stiffer for roadracing and high g-forces. A progressive front spring like the Bilstein may be something like 250#/in - 400#/in. So the spring rides well under a lighter load (normal driving) because of the lower (250) rate. But when pushed down and the lower part of the coil engages it will resist compression at a much greater rate because of the higher spring rate (400) at the bottom. This is how the Bilstein acheives a better ride under daily driving conditions than a 1LE.
The problem is that progressive front springs suck for roadracing because the front can deal with a linear load under racing conditions and maintain better control than a progressive setup.
In a nutshell the doughnuts are there for a reason. Why put radiator hose in your suspension when you're driving at very high speeds when you can cut the coils with equal to better results? I've done this on about 20 cars guys and this is my job every day. Just as a guideline cutting a full coil will lower the car more than an inch. I have found cutting about 7/8 of a coil will get you around what you need - dead level with the front at the stock height.
Whatever you do - good luck guys. Hope this helped...
Thanks!
Chris
Ok, what reason? To prevent noise transfer to the body, right? Right. And you can do the same with a simple piece of inner tube. Many, many have done it and not one single person has ever reported ANY negative effect (nope, not even at those SCARY high speeds!) So why do it? It's a helluva lot easier than cutting the springs, it's easily reversible, and it won't effect the spring rate in the slightest. Not even the formerly mentioned %5.



