Zturd

iTrader: (12)

I've been noticing that at the track the car runs almost consistantly 2.5MPH slower than before. Used to be 115+MPH now only 113MPH. The only difference at the moment is the NGK plugs being TR6's. It has the same size tires on it now. I changed my valvesprings, pushrods and that didn't take care of it. New TR6 plugs gapped at .035. I did a pull with a friend tonight and I was able to pull away on a 2nd gear roll but as soon as we hit 4th gear you could see he was starting to pull on me. This would not be the case if my car was pulling the same MPH as before. We autotapped and it gets at most of 3Degree's of knock retard. None is better but I don't think 3 degrees will hurt that bad. Could I have a ring problem? Loss of compression? Anything I can look at on ATAP to figure that out? Any and all help is greatly appreciated!!

TXCAMSS

iTrader: (60)

I would change out the fuel filter and make sure your air filter is not plugged up. You could pull your air filter (if you haven't already) and make a pass to se if you recover your MPH, but I would chage the Fuel filter anyways. It could also be Torque Management jumping in , but that usually shows as a loss of timing on ATAP. Good luck.

James

Zturd

iTrader: (12)

Thanks for the reply. Atleast someone loves me. LOL! Well regretfully I put a new fuel filter on when i put the TNT kit on 3 mos ago. I'm doing a compression test tonight and taking the TNT ring off and putting the NGK TR55 plugs back in. I actually did run it w/o the filter and i have a new one in there now. This is so odd since the car is pulling higer HP #'s on the dyno than before 343 to 347 RWHP SAE corrected now. I've turned the MAFT translater back to 0-0 and unplugged it. No rear difference. My o2s are at about 888 Bank1 and 900 Bank 2 at wide open throttle.

I've never melted, nipped, fouled a plug or anything with the Nitrous. Plugs always look great. I've tested for a blown headgasket the works. The only test left is a leak down test after this. Hope to try that sunday if the compression test is uneventful. I'd rather it not be but who knows.

mike02ss

If you are getting 3 degrees of knock retard in 4th gear, that will definitely account for your loss of a couple of mph. Same thing happened to a friend of mine and found out it was false knock, hooked up knockout box and got the mph back.

Zturd

iTrader: (12)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by mike02ss:
<strong>If you are getting 3 degrees of knock retard in 4th gear, that will definitely account for your loss of a couple of mph. Same thing happened to a friend of mine and found out it was false knock, hooked up knockout box and got the mph back.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Hmmmmmm!!!!!!!!! Well did the compression tests. Lowest cylinder was like 160 or 165 I forget and the highest was 180. Most were 170-175. I put in the NGK TR55's and took off the TNT power ring. Taking the bottle out for a lil. Only thing left is the leak down test.

Mike- I'll have to look into this knockout box. Never heard of it though Sure would like to have 0 knock. I know the car never had it before. I don't know why the car would be getting knock now. Gonna do some test runs tomorrow and see what I come up with. Thanks for the replies keep'm coming!

TXCAMSS

iTrader: (60)

I agree with Mike on the KR possibility. It may not be false though. I have learned through trial and error that when you lean a bit too much the results noticed by a loss in mph. Another point that I a have learned is that if you tune the MAFT in on the street with higher operating temps (190-205) and have them at say .880-910s and then go to the track and cool the car down and push it to through the staging lanes the cars operating temp will be cooler (170-185) adn the O2s will be richer (appx. .920-.935). This reverse effect will take place if you tune it at the track on a cool pass @ .880-.900s and then make the next pass a hot lap, with the engine temp up, the o2s are going to go lean (appx.860-.870s). These are just guestimated numbers , but I have seen it first hand. I would atap every run at the track until you get it figured out. Torque management has also been know to cause issues like this as well as the new find about the "CAT over temp" feature on LS1edit. Some people were having their car just fall on it's face at the top end and on the dyno. I sure hope it all works out for you. Keep us posted. Take care.

James

Zturd

iTrader: (12)

First I'd just like to say thanks for the input guys, its greatly appreciated. I'll continue to log some ATAP and see whats going on. I'll take the car out with the MAFT unplugged, but I do remember it getting 4 degree's knock on the dyno before the MAFT, but anythings worth a shot. Anyone got some info on this knockout box????????????? Gonna go out and take out my bottle and the noids since I can't hit it with TR55 plugs. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" /> Man I'm gonna miss her. Hitting her with the ole 100shot in 3rd at about 70MPH and the tires breaking loose. AHhhh good times good times. I'll keep you all updated on my quest of the lost MPH.

P.S. Anyone got any ideas of why it seems to happen when i'm in 4th gear the car doesn't pull as hard? The knock is there from the get go most of the times. Sometimes the knock isn't there though. Thanks again

mike02ss

Before you hook up the knockout box make sure it is definitely false knock that you are getting by putting in some race gas and then testing it. You wouldn't want to eliminate the knock retard when it is in fact actual knock. Can't remember the site for the knockout box but i'm sure if you did a search it would show up. When my car is cold it actually runs richer than when it is hot, so I tune my maft to read 920 when hot so I know i'm not lean. My car would ping when the scanmaster read 900-910. When cold it reads around 930.