5LiterBeater

My 99 WS-6 is a bolt on car that has only seen the dyno and autocross racing. I was looking to go to the stip, but was wondering ...

How do you drag it ???? What I mean by that is obvioulsy there is more than slamming the pedal down and holding on. I have an A4 no converter and don't plan on getting one. So how do you launch a car that idles at 500-800 RPM and still get it to hook up? My mods are Direct flo airlid, 85mm MAF, Corsa cat-back exhaust, HPP3, ZO6 18x9.5 wheels with BFG KDW's (265/35). Coming in a couple of days (LS6 intake manifold and QTP headers with QTEC and ORP's. I could really use some technique advice. Thanks

RAGEman

iTrader: (4)

Generally speaking, with an automatic, a good rule of thumb is to give less throttle if the tires spin, and to give more if it doesn't spin until you find the happy medium. You can try launching off idle, or you can try brake-stalling it up a little if it doesn't spin when you floor it off idle. There are so many variables here that I can't give you any definitive methods or steps or anything like that. Your launching technique will depend on nothing short of about a million things. Tires, weather, track prep, etc. Nothing we could say will help you more than you getting to the track and just practicing, I assure you. Take care now, bye-bye then.

<img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" />

Villain281H

iTrader: (5)

If you are running street tires, go around the water. Back up until you are just before the water box so you will not have any water on your tires. Make sure you line up straight. I usually mash the gas to do a quick dryhop and let the tires burn off any dust, dirt or water before staging. I usually stage between 900-1000 rpms and hit the gas 1/3-1/2 way down when I launch and once rolling and hooked, I roll into the gas all the way. 18's will not help b/c of little sidewall. The best advice is get out there and try it. Once you start though,it may become addicting! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[evil]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_devil.gif" />

Good luck!

Derek

RCMSSCamaro

LCA, Relo Brackets, SFC and torque arm and unhook the drivers side sway bar helped my launch. I have an A4, nittos, no stall. I power brake slightly and flash dead to the floor and I hook.

PS get the nittos hot

Bob

5LiterBeater

Thanks for the advice, but I can definately use all the expertise there is out there if anyone else cares to chime in, by all means, let em' rip.

sited12

Go to the track and just watch for the first hour. You will learn a ton just by watching. Then after that just keep trying. Try different things. See which works best for you. And at the track talk to other racers. People normally are always willing to lend a hand or just bullshit about racing. Just some of the hardcore guys that have 6 guys working on one car you should probably stay away from.

Colonel

"I have an A4 no converter and don't plan on getting one."

Curious as to why you don't have plans for a good converter. It's the best mod money can buy, IMO.

2000WhiteZ28

with similar mods, I would be at 1000rpm's holding the brake. hit the gas halfway when you see yellow lights, don't wait for green cause it'll take you a split second to react. Once you are rolling bring the pedal closer to the floor and keep it there until you are done. Aim straight, enjoy, practice often. Stay out of the water and keep tire spinning to a minimum with road tires. Get yourself some nittos or MT's on 16" rims to wear to the track. With drag radials, you can warm them up. A torque converter is huge bang for buck, even a mild one.

Bob2of3

iTrader: (11)

Like sited12 said your first time just watch for a little bit so you know where to do your burnout(street tires just get a little smoke to clean and dry them off), know the signals from the track officials and where to stop to start the race.

Now when racing with light mods and a stock converter you'll get the best times by not stalling up on the converter. Launch from idle and experiment with how fast to mash the peddle. Launching from idle will "flash" the converter making it slightly larger which will help you get out of the hole. Now when you get an aftermarket converter(you will after you're hooked) it'll be different, then you'll have to find where to stall it up to.

The most important thing to do is to have an awesome time and enjoy yourself, let us know how things went

LAter <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

5LiterBeater

The reason I don't plan on a converter at least not for a really long time is because my car is a daily driver and I would like the engine to last a little longer than the converter would give it. Starting at every stop and go at 2000 or higher RPM can't be easy on the engine. Unfortunately where I live (the 8th plane of hell) AKA Nofolk, VA everything here is stop and go there isn't really anywhere to just go and drive and frankly it pisses me off. So to make a long story short as much stop and go as I have to do I am not sure how much life a converter would shave off my engine. Thanks for all the advice keep it coming.

MARKSZ71

iTrader: (3)

a converter is the only way to go in a a4 camaro tci has some new conveters reasonably priced around 5 hundred bucks or so.

Colonel

I'm not sure you understand the extreme benefits of a converter. Sure, you'll turn more RPMs under acceleration (not during cruise though) but I think most would agree that the HUGE gains of a converter FAR outweigh the slight loss of engine longevity (are you trying to get 200,000 miles out of the thing or something?) Some converters can drop ETs over a full second in the 1/4 mile with adequate traction. That's comparable to a nice heads/cam package or a 100 shot of nitrous but way easier on the engine.

If I were that worried about the engine lasting a few thousand miles less I wouldn't even go to the dragstrip and I'd never get the RPMs over 2500. Live a little! <img border="0" alt="[burn out]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_burnout.gif" />