how to fit 28" slick?
What modifications are required to fit a 28x10x15" slick in there?
TIA
Jerry
I had to cut part of the quater panel and "gently" <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> persuade the wheel well with a 15# sledge hammer.
But my first 1.36 short time made it all worth it <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
-ding the little lip of metal in front of the tire so that it pointed forward instead of towards the tire
-trim the lip of the rear skirt slightly (but it is NOT obvious that I did anything)
-hammer on the inner fender well on the front inside of the tire - this required some fairly strong hammering to get at least a finger's width there, but eventually it got there. A little POR-15 paint and all's good.
-Adjustable lower control arms & panhard rod to center up the rear
I did not cut any metal at all. My wheels are Bogarts.
-Andrew
ive got an adjustable panhard rod, but not adjustable LCA's, just BMR's.
i may go ahead and tryt his anyway.
thanks for the responses and keep 'em coming <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
Jerry
No complaints here. I had regular BMR non-adjustable LCA's, and the rear sat a little too far back (I've got a Moser 12-bolt also). I pulled it forward about 1/8" with some BMR adjustable LCA's. That minimized what I had to do at the rear skirt. I figure ~$230 for adjustable LCA's is cheaper and quicker than $500 for a bodyman and paint to rework the urethane rear skirt. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
-Andrew
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atleast my car isnt falling apart and sound like a train rolling down the road <img border="0" alt="[barf]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_barf.gif" />
<img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />
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