Launch pic from yesterday
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Launch pic from yesterday The guy said this was when the car was on the way down 
Any suggestions? I am squatting pretty hard to the right on the back. Need to put back in my RR airbag.
Slicks were at 12.5psi cold. Sixty was 1.54 for this run I think.
Any suggestions? I am squatting pretty hard to the right on the back. Need to put back in my RR airbag.
Slicks were at 12.5psi cold. Sixty was 1.54 for this run I think.
chris is your rearend narrowed? the centerlines look really nice and flush. good looking launch, looks like you are correct. a RR airbag would even out and hit the tires more equally.
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Thanks Gator. 
Nope rear is still stock width. Those 15x7.5 Convo pros and 28x9 inch slick (27.3 OD) work really well.
I still have stock shocks, springs, PHR LOL!
BMR extreme TA with subs, hotchkiss LCA's
I am deciding between an airbag in the back or a solid swaybar over the winter
Nope rear is still stock width. Those 15x7.5 Convo pros and 28x9 inch slick (27.3 OD) work really well.
I still have stock shocks, springs, PHR LOL!
BMR extreme TA with subs, hotchkiss LCA's
I am deciding between an airbag in the back or a solid swaybar over the winter
Last edited by Chris ARE 385; Sep 22, 2004 at 07:45 AM.
airbags are a half assed way of doing things IMO.
you should get the car squatting evenly using good rear shocks, drag bar, etc. i have my optima battery in the drivers rear which helps alot as well for weight distribution rather than having it in the passenger side which only compounds that problem.
you should get the car squatting evenly using good rear shocks, drag bar, etc. i have my optima battery in the drivers rear which helps alot as well for weight distribution rather than having it in the passenger side which only compounds that problem.
airbags aren't half ***. They work and they are cheap. You can't pre-load a rearend with just shocks, that airbag can pre-load the rear.
Chris, you only need one airbag, the passenger side. The driver's side is never required. If you don't have subframe connectors, get some. Helps reduce the twist alot.
Chris, you only need one airbag, the passenger side. The driver's side is never required. If you don't have subframe connectors, get some. Helps reduce the twist alot.
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I agree the air bag is a cheapy fix,try one frosty..
I want the 1in sway like Wilwaxu has,he said it make a big difference and I dont want the added noised of a anti-sway.
I hope to be like u next spring except DR and 17's
I want the 1in sway like Wilwaxu has,he said it make a big difference and I dont want the added noised of a anti-sway.
I hope to be like u next spring except DR and 17's
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no, you can't pre load with shocks, not what i was implying. but you can pre load with the drag bar, which is what i do and is a far better way to work with the car.
just my opinion that's all
just my opinion that's all
Originally Posted by SilverGhost
no, you can't pre load with shocks, not what i was implying. but you can pre load with the drag bar, which is what i do and is a far better way to work with the car.
just my opinion that's all
just my opinion that's all
If you air up the air bag, you can lift that side of the car up about 1.5 inches and really stiffen the car up on that side. Plus, you can install an airbag in 10 minutes with a floor jack
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I have a RR airbag but need to put it back in the car. (Going to this week)
That is why I like the airbag, it doesn't affect normal driving.
Moser 12 bolt rear with 30 spline and 4.11's
Stock T56 tranny
Spec stage 4i clutch (iron disc)
launch is 5000-5500rpm
That is why I like the airbag, it doesn't affect normal driving.
Moser 12 bolt rear with 30 spline and 4.11's
Stock T56 tranny
Spec stage 4i clutch (iron disc)
launch is 5000-5500rpm
I would also like to comment that your air pressure needs to be measured when hot if at all possible. I ran my airbag @ 16-18 psi. It also really depends on what you said to be correct as far as the track hooking or not. I go as stiff as possible to hook, but then again, you dont want too much air or you will fight the car all the way down the track. The purpose of these airbags isnt for the initial launch but for keeping the car sqaure down track as well. Thats what these drag sway bars are all about. They were designed to keep the car straight down the track. Not much as to the launch, thats just an added beniefit of a drag bar 
Mike
Mike
Originally Posted by Chris ARE 385
I think the general rule of thumb is: The better the track is hooking, the more air you can run. I used to run between 12-15psi but have heard of guys with over 25psi...
I've got a 1" Spohn swaybar (suspension techniques makes one as well) with the street type mounting - it straightened out my launches a whole bunch and is still quiet for street driving. Although I did put heavy washers on all sides of the lower end link poly's to keep them from pulling into the hole in the bar.
The pic in my sig is after the swaybar and the front bumper is perfectly parallel to the ground (1.55 to 1.57 60' times) - before my car looked similar to the pic above (didn't yank the tires quite as high).
The pic in my sig is after the swaybar and the front bumper is perfectly parallel to the ground (1.55 to 1.57 60' times) - before my car looked similar to the pic above (didn't yank the tires quite as high).
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How heavy is that bar you have compared to stock? I was even thinking about a 1LE rear bar too. I believe that is 21mm compared to the stock 19mm. I dont want to add weight if I can help it. (already over 3600 pounds)