I'm getting ready to run my LS1 M6, and local members of our car club have basically decided that a line lock is really not needed to cook up the tires. Some have said they can hold the burnout long enough without the lock out.

Comments? I got Nittos on back, and I would think one would have to stay on the brakes to hold the burnout, which can't be good on the brakes, correct?

 

I bought a line lock so I didn't warp my rotors plus if you try to do a burn out without the brake you might no get a consistant burn out. But i just started racing this year

 

You can brake torque it to heat up the tires-but it is hard on the rear brakes. When racing a stick car heads up on a pro tree, the line lock can be used to "bump" the car into the staging beams with the revs up-ready to launch. It is very difficult to get the car into the 2nd beam and then rev the car up to launch on a pro tree without the line lock. I usually try and stage 1st, that way you know when the tree is going to start (when the other guy lights his 2nd beam).

The line lock is nice to have for the burnout-but not absolutely necessary.

 

you surely dont need a linelock, it just saves your rear brakes from burning out with your tires

 

Thanks guys.

It's just what I was thinking. I rolled out of my burns fairly quick in May. I guess my 60's won't be that great this Friday, but I'll try to have fun until I can get the line lock installed.

Are the SLP ones ok?

 

I went with the SJM kit. Very nice and top quality. Look for his site ----->

 

Thanks for the recommendation gettinthere.

The above comments are very good answers. To reiterate, a line lock is not a necessity, though it can aid in the prevention of wearing/damaging brake components.

It will help one control the car much better while heating up your tires. It also helps to clean off the tires when dirt/debris gets caught up in the tire.

There is also a "fun factor" involved. I'm sure others will attest to this; once you have it, you'll be using it in parking lots and on the street at lights, not just at the track. They are especially fun when you know your tires are bald and your ready for a new set...I've seen some pretty amazing videos of guys performing smoke shows

Our kits are NOT new...we've been manufacturing them since 1996, then started the LS1 kits when LS1's became available. As far as I'm aware, we are the original designers of this type of setup. As shown on our comparison chart, our kit contains additional circuitry and components which we feel is a necessity. You'll only find in the better kits to contain these features. Ours contain a remote (standalone) LED and MASTER arm switch in addition to the standard control switch.

As mentioned, when you’re not using the line lock; completely deactivating the circuit so accidental deployment doesn't occur is very important, not only for longevity reasons, but for safety reasons. Driving down the road, having someone switch the line lock switch and you not know it, then depressing the brakes and not being able to shut them off isn’t a good thing. I read recently a guy with an SLP kit recently deployed his line lock by accident while cleaning his car; obviously not a good thing as this is a quick way to burn out the solenoid (I believe he was having problems after this occurrence also…probably burned the solenoid out). Line lock solenoids should never be activated for more then 60 seconds as they can overheat. ALL our kits have rebuildable solenoids btw.

We fully warranty and support all products we design/manufacture; tech support is available for questions regarding our products/installs etc.

Hope this information is helpful to some.

Our kits are ALWAYS in stock and ready to ship!

Steve
Pres.

 

line lock is a great thing IMO.

i never ran one really until this season, wish i had done one a long time ago.

it is much easier on your brakes and also on your posi unit if you have a stock rearend..lot of long brake tq's puts a lot of un needed stress on an already weak POS 10 bolt.

 

Line lock is just a good idea. Like steve said, they are fun in parking lots and whatnot, and at the track, they just make life alot esier. Not to mention they save brakes, and don't heat teh clutch up as much either while doing burnout's too. I personally have an SLP, but knowing SJM, their unit is top notch. regardless which you choose to go with, just do it. The first time a ricer on the street starts revving at you at a light, and you flick that thing on, and fill his window with smoke, and leave him sitting there when the light changes, you'll wish you had done it the day you bought your car.

 

If your Nittos are radials, you don't need a line lock and really don't need to do anything more than just spin the dust off of them. You should not use the water box.

 

Steve
Do you do installs? I am in the Pittsburgh area and would be very interested if you did the installs.

 

what are you talking about? all nittos are considered radials, regardless if they are the drags or the street tire version. drag radials need to be good and hot to work, IMO the burnout is key when on a drag radial.

 

Get a line lock and heat the Nittos. You will not be disapointed.

 

Decision made. Again, great responses.

I may run it Friday without it, I just won't be able to cook the rubber before runnin'.
Then next week, I'll be placing an order with the guy who posted above

BTW, everyone I see with Nitto DR's heat 'em up good.

 

My '99 SS will run mid-12s all day (similar to scrudedude's times) on BFG drag radials, with no line lock and by driving around the water box. Doing long burnouts trying to heat a radial tire amounts to little more than waisting good rubber.

 

Interesting. Anyone do a comparison, light spin vs. long burnout on the same day? 60 foot time difference?

I guess I'll find out myself, since I will run Friday without a lock and a light burnout, and will run later this month with a lock/heavy burnout with Nitto Dr's.

 

FWIW, I use the line lock as a parking brake when loading the car on the trailer also. I have left a SLP line lock on for 5 hours (left it on the whole tow home by mistake using it as a parking brake :/ ) and it still worked fine.

But

If you wire it up SLP's way you wire it up so the switch grounds the solenoid and the wire from the solenoid to the swith shorts out somewhere the line lock will turn on. As Steve said that us a very dangerous thing to happen when driving the car - you will not have front brakes if the solenoid is energized. It needs to be wired with the switch powering the solenoid, that way if the wire to the switch shorts out it blows a fuse and doesnt acivate the solenoid.

You really done NEED one but with an M6 car it makes the burnouts a lot less stressful, an auto car will just brake dust up the wheels aftr a dozen burnouts. They also come in handy on a M6 car if the starting line isnt flat or your clutch drags a little to keep the car from rolling out of the lights.

 

Drag radials need heat. I've run with them same day, one pass without, driving around the water, and the next pass smoking them until I was gonna choke, and the 60 foot got .2 better, and the run was .32 better. No heat = spin. If you are not haveing this result, it is because you are bogging with the tires heated, therefore losing anything that the added traction gave you.

 

Don't use someone's online burnout recommendation, it is better to experiement with ALL of them and find what works at your track. The guy posting could have a very well prepped track and is giving you pointers based on that, yet your track could be (like mine) poorly prepped and you need to do a long burnout (even on street tires) to hook just as good. So go out there and practice your burnout technique. This also applies to your tire pressures and launch rpms. Experiment and find what works for you, this is how a true racer does it.

 

I agree.