Wheelie Bar Help
Wheelie Bar Help I am taking advantage of wolfes 20% off sale and getting some stuff I needed 
My question is what length and width wheelie bar is everyone running?
Wolfe offers
Length 48" and 60"
Width 19" and 24.5"
I was just wondering what everone was running
My question is what length and width wheelie bar is everyone running?
Wolfe offers
Length 48" and 60"
Width 19" and 24.5"
I was just wondering what everone was running
It mainly depends on your housing. We normally run a 20" wide on a 9" and 18" on a 12 bolt. Go with the 60" long ones.
The longer the bar the better. It allows flex which wont unload the tires as easy.
Everycar is different. Usually I start at 8" from the ground to the center of the wheelie bar wheel.
The guy's at Wolfe told me to set the passenger side a 1/4" lower than the drivers side. Does this sound right. He said it will help from having you car take a hard right off the line. I would have thought you would want to set the drivers side a 1/4" lower than the passenger side so that when the bars hit the ground they are hitting at the same time. How are you guy's setting them up?
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raise the side of the bar...to which way the car is pulling. if its pulling right...raise the right bar a little.
also works with weight (ballast) in the trunk. add weight (or move) to the side of the car its pulling too.
these are just my experiences.
also works with weight (ballast) in the trunk. add weight (or move) to the side of the car its pulling too.
these are just my experiences.
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We run 48" on the Formula. I'll be running them on my CE as well. I believe Harlan's, APE's, and Roofer Dave's are about 48" also. So far so good. We adjust which way the car goes by applying preload to the anti-roll bar. Wheelie bars are set even to the ground.
8 Second Club
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 504
Likes: 1
From: Bay Area, CA
I do not agree with adjusting the wheelie bars to steer the car.. that should be done with the sway bar/suspension. Wheelie bars should JUST be used to keep the front end down in my world.. they should not be used as a tool to drive the car straight and should be set even from left to right at the same height.
I agree Outlaw. Set your bars level. The car should drive straight with the bars or without.
48" spring loaded S&W's here. No problems with unloading. You don't want to rely on the bars to stop wheelstanding. Tune your suspension for that. The bars will control your launches but you should just see them barely hit the black. Like Brian said, violent hits to the bars will only unload the rear tires. If you get a case where the car really hooks hard on an awesome track, they are there for safety and to keep from breaking thousands of dollars in parts 
Some of our tracks here are hit or miss on traction so I never know what the first pass of the day will bring.
Some of our tracks here are hit or miss on traction so I never know what the first pass of the day will bring.
Originally Posted by Outlaw
I do not agree with adjusting the wheelie bars to steer the car.. that should be done with the sway bar/suspension. Wheelie bars should JUST be used to keep the front end down in my world.. they should not be used as a tool to drive the car straight and should be set even from left to right at the same height.
8 Second Club
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 504
Likes: 1
From: Bay Area, CA
Well I guess if your car/track makes big changes from round to round, you do what you have to do to get down the track. I personally tune the suspension and do round to round motor work on a pretty fast Outlaw 10.5 car and I always leave the bars level and work with other factors in the suspension then the bars to get the car down the track. As you will see in the video's this car caries the front end to almost half track on some passes. So getting the car to work on the suspension is very very important when you are on that small 10.5 tire and putting big power down. The car being a true "back half" car makes this even more of a challenge.
Video 1st pass
Video 2nd pass
Video from finals
Video 1st pass
Video 2nd pass
Video from finals
My bar's are ~60" from axle centerline to centerline of the wheels. We've had the best luck with them about 9" to 10" from track surface to center of the wheelie wheel. Anything less and they bars hit too hard and upset the rear tires, anything more and it stands up too much. You can always tell it's on a good pass, because the wheels barely touch and most of the wheel paint stays on the wheels.
It's nice to know they are there, and not worry about it standing up again. Only there as a saftey net
It's nice to know they are there, and not worry about it standing up again. Only there as a saftey net
Originally Posted by Outlaw
Well I guess if your car/track makes big changes from round to round, you do what you have to do to get down the track. I personally tune the suspension and do round to round motor work on a pretty fast Outlaw 10.5 car and I always leave the bars level and work with other factors in the suspension then the bars to get the car down the track. As you will see in the video's this car caries the front end to almost half track on some passes. So getting the car to work on the suspension is very very important when you are on that small 10.5 tire and putting big power down. The car being a true "back half" car makes this even more of a challenge.
very nice looking/impressive car there. yup...different cars will use different setups...and everyone thinks theirs is the best way....thats not me. i guess what ever works for ya the best....it can be different for every type of set up...and power adder. thats why i was just saying earlier that it was just info from my experience. i wasnt saying that was the "best" thing to do...just saying how a car can act from a wheelie bar change.
not putting your car down...but it appears that it lifts the wheels after its well on its way. that makes it a lot easier to keep it straight. Our car actually picks them up right away and holds them up for 200'...and that takes some precise wheelie bar adjustments...cuz the front wheels arent touching the ground not even once for 200-300 feet. Plus the type of wheelie bars, length, and type of car you have keep the front end down pretty good. when the front end gets real high...and carries far...it can be a different story.
like i said...2 different cars...2 different opinions. gotta try what works best for ya.
Last edited by slow3hoe2; Dec 22, 2004 at 02:55 PM.
Originally Posted by y2khawk
My bar's are ~60" from axle centerline to centerline of the wheels. We've had the best luck with them about 9" to 10" from track surface to center of the wheelie wheel. Anything less and they bars hit too hard and upset the rear tires, anything more and it stands up too much. You can always tell it's on a good pass, because the wheels barely touch and most of the wheel paint stays on the wheels.
It's nice to know they are there, and not worry about it standing up again. Only there as a saftey net
It's nice to know they are there, and not worry about it standing up again. Only there as a saftey net
8 Second Club
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 504
Likes: 1
From: Bay Area, CA
Originally Posted by slow3hoe2
ha...you call that carrying the wheels? lmao j/k
very nice looking/impressive car there.
not putting your car down...but it appears to be a turbo car...that lifts the wheels after its well on its way. that makes it a lot easier to keep it straight. Our car actually picks them up right away and holds them up for 200'...and that takes some precise wheelie bar adjustments...cuz the front wheels arent touching the ground not even once for 200-300 feet.
very nice looking/impressive car there.
not putting your car down...but it appears to be a turbo car...that lifts the wheels after its well on its way. that makes it a lot easier to keep it straight. Our car actually picks them up right away and holds them up for 200'...and that takes some precise wheelie bar adjustments...cuz the front wheels arent touching the ground not even once for 200-300 feet.
When it comes down to it.. this is my thoughts.. but if your car is up on the wheelie bars every pass for 300 feet you need to move weight around-change your IC- or adjust your limiters on the front end. I am only getting into all this cause if its my feelings that if your suspension is not driving straight off the line, what that means is on the big end of the track, things are not going straight and you are loosing et and fighting yourself. what ever the suspension does on the line, it does the flip of that when you let of the gas on the big end. That can cause problems at 100+ mph in my book. My car is the Nova in the far lane...
Last edited by Outlaw; Dec 22, 2004 at 03:12 PM.