Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

When I ran the SS4000, a 3.42 gear, and a little more weight, the best 60 ft. that I cut was a 1.62. Now that Im running a PT4400, a 4.10, and a little less weight, the best Ive pulled is a 1.52. However, I only got to make 2 passes with the new setup. I really think that the car should be running mid to high 1.4s if not low to mid 1.4s. Ive seen lots of setups similiar to mine running mid to high 1.4s and even 6 speed cars pulling those 60 fts. I dunno, with my old set up I always figure that I should be pulling mid to high 1.5s and now I with the new setup it should be in the 1.4s. What do you think? What can I do to improve? When I made the 2 passes with the new setup, this is how everything was set:

2 on the front shocks (QA1 Hal R series shocks with stock springs)
4 on the rear shocks (QA1 Hal shocks with stock springs)
15 psi in airbag (rear passenger spring)
13 psi cold in ET Drags
2500 rpm launch
not sure if the pinion angle is setup correctly, plan on double checking
3340 lb. race weight

CamaroCain

iTrader: (1)

maybe its because your 60' are really not that bad but for some reason you have it in your mind that they are just because joe blow over here has done a 1.4 so you should be able to also.

Oh, BTW, what cam in the car now?

SMOKIN01TA

iTrader: (10)

not every car is tuned to cut 1.4's, not every track is preped to alow 1.4's with a car like yours, not every driver can drive there car to a 1.4. and very few people cut there best 60ft in 2 dam passes with a new setup. you need to stop worrying so much and put in more seat time. we cant tune you suspension online, you need to go drive the thing and mess with it. i didnt bolt on my shocks and swaybar and go cut a 1.43 on my first run.

MARKSZ71

iTrader: (3)

u are insane go the dam track

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

CamaroCain, I never said that my 60 fts. were bad, I was just thinking that they could be better because Ive seen 6 speeds with similar power pull those kind of 60 fts. I know that Im comparing my setup to others, but I figured since Im an auto. and have a pretty good setup to go with it (PT4400/4.10) that it should be better. I still have the MTI C2 cam in it.

SMOKIN01TA, thanks for the advice/input.

Mark, do you ever have anything nice to say?

slow3hoe2

iTrader: (3)

BlackBeaSSt,
what mods do you have? just curious.

and did you change the converter and gear at the same time? just wondering which one made the most difference in bringing your 60' time down.

thanks

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

Fast Toys ram air kit
K&N air filter
Texas Speed & Performance air lid
stock MAF
SLP high flow bellow
Bauer Racing ported & polished throttle body
LS6 intake manifold
NGK TR-55s
Holley 9mm wires
Kooks 1 3/4" stainless steel long tube headers
Custom 3" true duals w/Dynomax bullets dumped
ASP underdrive crank pulley
Meziere electric water pump
MTI C2 cam (224/.581/112)
Manley valvetrain kit
AMW oil catch can
Billingsley ABS delete block
Century 200-4R w/all options
Yank PT4400
TCI flexplate
Hal shocks in a 4 corners w/R series in front
Spohn-LCAs, PHB, TA, SFCs, & 25mm rear sway bar all in chromoly
BMR-K-member, upper & lower a-arms, & relocation brackets
Airlift airbag
Prothane motor mounts
Energy Suspension tranmission mount
Denny's nitrous ready driveshaft
Strange 12 bolt w/4.10
Bogarts-15x10/ET Drags 15x4/165R
Wolfe chromoly 6 point weld-in roll bar
Weight reduction and other light weight mods (3340 race weight)

I changed the converter and the rear end/gear at the same time.

Ben R

You need more power and a lighter car.

CamaroCain

iTrader: (1)

get rid of the baby...uh, cam you have in there and maybe you need some adjustment on the shocks. I dont know much about the rear HALs but on the fronts start at 4, and if you are hooking then leave them alone. Also try 14 or 14.5 psi in the tires verses 13. Just some more ideas.

Lynda

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

Im working on it. Just trying to decide what I want to keep in/on the car.

CamaroCain, it seems like youre telling me to do the opposite as opposed to what everyone else is telling me. More air pressure, stiffer shock setting, vs. less air pressure, softer shock setting. I know theyre just ideas, so I'll give it a try. Ive always been under the impression that you want a stiff rear and loose front.

I definately want to get rid of the cam, I just dont know what cam to go with.

Tom the roofer

iTrader: (9)

If I were you I would start another thread and ask

As for you 60's, Here is my advice. Quit modding your car, take it to the track during TNT a few nights, make some passes, mess around with your shock settings and tire pressure and launch RPM's, only change 1 item at a time, log ALL of your results, when you get the car to 60' and ET to it's maximum potential then take the car and race it on race day all year and win some races with your new CONSISTANT set up.

Every pass you make doing the above testing on your car, you will also be tuning your reaction time skills.

Now you have a CONSISTANT car and an EYE for cutting good lights. This is what I consider a so called REAL RACER.

Now good luck and go have some fun.

gator's 99TA

iTrader: (2)

get off the net, and go race. seat time is everything.

Caveman

iTrader: (2)

Your suspension setup is very similar to mine. I ran low 1.5s for about 6 months. Tried different shock settings , different tire pressures and finally played with the torque arm angle. -4 was too much( car would pull the front tires 1' and bounce forward) -1, -2 did`nt help. With -3 and front Hals at 2, backs at 4, 15psi Hoosiers the car started running mid 1.4s.Now I put a Vortech on and have to learn the car all over.
Good Luck, Dave