I don't think they break at any other places than the welds. 
? about driveshaft loops
? about driveshaft loops Long story short, I'm buing a stock aluminum ds to replace my steel one. Don't think I'll brake it since I'll only probably see mid to high 12's. Don't want to take chances so I'm getting a dsl.
Most of the dsls replace the tunnel brace and only a couple look like they'd be strong enough to act as a tunnel brace and a dsl. The G2 looks like it would be the most sturdy. $120 is kinda hard to swallow though.
Am I worring too much about this? All of the dsl's should offer the same if not more bracing than the stock tunnel brace right?
Also, I'm a paranoid person, reading through the posts here I am seeing broken ds's and the thought of pole vaulting the rear of my car into the air makes me kinda uneasy. What choices do I have about putting a dsl at the rear of the ds? I was thinking about just having a loop welded torward the rear of the ta since the front dsl is only about 6" from the front of the ds.
Thanks.
Most of the dsls replace the tunnel brace and only a couple look like they'd be strong enough to act as a tunnel brace and a dsl. The G2 looks like it would be the most sturdy. $120 is kinda hard to swallow though.
Am I worring too much about this? All of the dsl's should offer the same if not more bracing than the stock tunnel brace right?
Also, I'm a paranoid person, reading through the posts here I am seeing broken ds's and the thought of pole vaulting the rear of my car into the air makes me kinda uneasy. What choices do I have about putting a dsl at the rear of the ds? I was thinking about just having a loop welded torward the rear of the ta since the front dsl is only about 6" from the front of the ds.
Thanks.
The LS1 aluminum DS is a pretty sturdy piece. I ran in the 12's for 3 years and finally cracked the 11's this past season with no problems. I have a Spohn TA with the front driveshaft loop installed too. You can never be too paranoid about safety and $120 for a tunnel brace/DS loop is a good price and well worth it. You never know when a driveshaft or u-joint will break and if it does can cause serious damage to a car and possibly it's driver.
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 12,829
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From: Central Indiana Honors: 4th grade spelling bee contestant
Make sure the loop you buy is approved by the sanctioning body of your choice (i.e...NHRA, IHRA). I know that the SLP unit for fourth-gen f-bodies is NHRA-approved. That way you won't have to replace it again when you really start dipping down into the lower numbers.
You won't need a dsl at the rear, only the front. If the front breaks, you can pole vault.
But if the rear breaks, you'll only drag the driveshaft. And it will most likely fall out of the back of the transmission too, leaving it laying on the ground.
But if the rear breaks, you'll only drag the driveshaft. And it will most likely fall out of the back of the transmission too, leaving it laying on the ground.
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Cave Springs, GA
Originally Posted by John_D.
You won't need a dsl at the rear, only the front.
But if the rear breaks, you'll only drag the driveshaft. And it will most likely fall out of the back of the transmission too, leaving it laying on the ground.
But if the rear breaks, you'll only drag the driveshaft. And it will most likely fall out of the back of the transmission too, leaving it laying on the ground.
Originally Posted by jm8881
But what if it breaks after the dsl?
The driveshaft is 48" from u-joint to u-joint, which is definitely enough length to worry about pole vaulting, if it was to catch the pavement just right.
If it breaks behind the dsl, it will be a lot shorter, so it's very unlikely it would do anything except swing around to one side.
If you were to make a rear dsl, it would have to be a tall oval to allow the rear axle to move up and down.
