Wheelwell cut for 28x10.5W tire
#21
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Originally Posted by Fireball
here you go
and shoot, since you on stock brakes id have to clearance even more than you
btw, whats a w swell to at 135mph? any idea. about 29.25" which would be 3/4 inch swell on a true 28 which i heard this is not. im trying to get my gear ratio stuff worked out here
29.25"tire with a 4.88 gear at 7600 rpms=136mph. sound bout right?
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Originally Posted by SMOKIN01TA
Brian, you still on stock brakes right, im fixing to try and get my w's to fit but im on strange brakes to its almost like you have a spacer and i dont if i run a 7.5 backspace. im thinkin of just going with a 6.5 with no spacers and see what happens, i wish there was a 7" backspace rim
Phil
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Originally Posted by SMOKIN01TA
thanks
and shoot, since you on stock brakes id have to clearance even more than you
btw, whats a w swell to at 135mph? any idea. about 29.25" which would be 3/4 inch swell on a true 28 which i heard this is not. im trying to get my gear ratio stuff worked out here
29.25"tire with a 4.88 gear at 7600 rpms=136mph. sound bout right?
and shoot, since you on stock brakes id have to clearance even more than you
btw, whats a w swell to at 135mph? any idea. about 29.25" which would be 3/4 inch swell on a true 28 which i heard this is not. im trying to get my gear ratio stuff worked out here
29.25"tire with a 4.88 gear at 7600 rpms=136mph. sound bout right?
#27
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Bri, so I am already rolling on 28x10.5x15 et drag/ 15x10/ 7.5/ no spacer, then to migrate to the W, you say the only big mod is the boxing of the sheetmetal? How about the sheetmetal in front of the coil spring? What spring/ rearend setup u have? You running with the springs cups gone in back?
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only had to cut the inner fenderwell (like shown) and completely remove the bumpstop area. still have OEM springs and stock width rear (9" ford). I removed teh spring isolater though for weight xfer purposes
#32
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Originally Posted by Fireball
only had to cut the inner fenderwell (like shown) and completely remove the bumpstop area. still have OEM springs and stock width rear (9" ford). I removed teh spring isolater though for weight xfer purposes
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Originally Posted by Pro Stock John
The bump stop area... the ridgy part too? Above the bump stop? How high? You on Bogarts?
#34
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Bringing this one back up... Brian, are you running stock height rear springs + no spring cups? If a car was lowered like an inch to inch and a half in back would that work you think?
#40
I did it on Mark's car. I used a BFH and alot of cutting. I didn't get to the inside of the car with any cut though. We used a 7.5 BS Prostar and had the Prokit on it so it was lowered. It never rubbed and cut a 1.27 60ft without wheelie bars. We should have had them though because it broke the rear bumper when I went up on it at Thunder last year........It is a very mean tire. Take every percaution you can. You don't want it to rub and you don't want it to stand straight up. When you are all done with what you think is clearenced enough. Put a jack under the punkin and jack it up so the tires are off the ground so that the suspension is still loaded down. Drive the car on the jack and get into high gear. The tire will expand and you can see how close everything really is. You don't want to find out how close it is when you came back off a pass and consider yourself lucky it didn't blow.