speedracerz

iTrader: (8)

i believe you can paint, but trim should be left off.....also you cannot grind any welds

chpmnsws6

iTrader: (70)

can you grind down then tig it in after you put a heavy bead on it with a Mig?

speedracerz

iTrader: (8)

why not just tig it from the start? but then again i am using a mig on mine................and my new spool of wire keeps binding on me.........getting pissed cause ill be in the middle of a nice bead and the it will quit feeding....

the important thing is im not bitter

chpmnsws6

iTrader: (70)

because Mig is alot faster then Tig...... Mig the mass in, then Tig to make sure it bonds together and smooths out nicely

speedracerz

iTrader: (8)

that would be a question for a cage inspector

SUX2BU

iTrader: (14)

Yeah If you can't TIG real nice i'de take it to a pro. and i only think DIY's should install roll bars and not roll cages. There are some parts you can't get to on a roll cage with a wire feed.

critter

iTrader: (9)

The same is true of roll bars. It was a real bitch to get at the top side of the rear bars. I used to weld blind with a stick welder by bending the electrode a listening to the weld. Can't do that with MIG or TIG (which used to be known as HeliArc).

I don't understand NHRA's obsession with TIG. TIG is fine for thin material, and much better than a stick for that. But I have had tube axles that were TIG'ed break and you could see that there wasn't much penetration. It was a good looking weld too. I know you can get penetration with a MIG and also with a stick. (BTW, these axles came from a famous left coast speed shop that built tons of them). Back in those days, you couldn't weld airframes with HeliArc (aka TIG). The only thing approved was gas torch. Digger frames were torched also and it took a while for HeliArc to get accepted. Of course, a weld is only as good as the operator, but I would rather trust my life to a MIG weld than TIG on 0.125" or thicker material.

1fastWS6

iTrader: (3)

You can't MIG 4130 chromemoly tubing because the filler wire (E70) would be weaker than the base material. That would be like chaining something together with a big heavy chain and connecting it with a cheap, tiny padlock. You TIG it so the weld is just as strong as the tubing.

critter

iTrader: (9)

Pardon my ignorance. I've been writing software for the last 25 years instead of working metal.

What you are saying is that there is nothing inherently wrong with the MIG process - you just can't get the correct filler wire, like you can for TIG? If proper filler can be made for TIG, why not MIG?
From the TIG welding I have seen on heavy cross sections, I will guarantee you that the weld is not as strong as the tubing. Mabye the welder didn't know how to TIG, but he was a pro ...

DERTY

With a 6 point, you will not be getting a chassis certified so this is not a problem. With a 10 point you will need to leave many of the bars visible, but the dash can go back in. If you have painted the cage some inspectors may scrape the paint back during inspection to do a material thickness test. Expect to be spot checked in more than one location.

c5coop

i was thinking of doing some side work on rollcages. ive installed 2 for friends with a cheep miller mig, but the way to go is tig imo. you can weld thicker meteral with tig, but becaus of the slow speed it is usuly made on a root or stringer pass and then caped with a lo hydrogen or 6010 rod. having a cheep machine that will not get hot enough or an inexperinsed welder is usuly when your **** breaks. if any body is interisted let me know. iv been welding for 9 years and will fabercate any thing you can think of or at least any thing my boss has thought up to date. cooper_wadleigh@yahoo.com im in san angelo TX.

Villain281H

iTrader: (5)

NHRA will not allow any cleaning up of welds, period. Certified cage is only 1 part of being able to run faster than 10.00/135 mph. But the sticker does look great

Derek

critter

iTrader: (9)

For those who plan to buy a MIG welder to save the cost of bar installation, don't unless you are a masochist or serious DIYer. I just got done converting my Wolfe roll bar into an 8 point cage. I learned to stick weld long ago and have done a lot of welding over the years. I also can oxy/acetylene weld well. I welded aluminum the first time I picked up a TIG. I am here to tell you, MIG welding is not a no-brainer. With a stick, you pick a voltage to match the rod and metal thickness, which is hard enough for a lot of people. With MIG, you have to pick a voltage and wire speed. If the wire speed it too high, it overruns the arc and stabs into the pool, tending to blow a hole out the back side. If you have too much voltage, it blows through almost immediately. Not enough and it pops and won't maintain an arc while putting blobs all over. I practiced a bit first (maybe a foot of bead - didn't have much scrap around) and started welding the cage in. It went pretty well except for there doesn't seem to be much of any way to get at the top of the bars and it is hard to get between the bar and the door sill. A stick is very narrow compared to a MIG so it is a lot easier to weld in tight spaces. For the bar tops, I can bend the electrode with a stick welder and weld the tops easily. I will say that once I got the settings right, it is easier to weld the 1/8" plates to the sheet metal floor with the MIG and with a stick. It is harder to fill a gap with a MIG than with a stick.

Long story short, I have been welding for a very long time and had a high dollar MIG to work with for this job. I once tried on a cheap MIG and made a mess. I find it hard to believe that someone who has never welded before can spend $200 - $300 on a MIG and learn quickly enough to get a safe install. Paying someone to do the install is not a bad idea.

2FAST4U

I see V10 Killer is in Michigan, PM me I know of a great fab man local. In my opinion one of the top chassis builders. Did my car for what I think is cheap and it simply couldn't have been done better anywhere. C/M crazy 6pt with mounts for my Fuel controler,belt tapsin rear,and reenforced plates in floor for lap belts, the side bars bent perfectly around my Sparco's, painted with rubber sidebar protectors, removed all extra metal on floor boards,cut hole for fuel door(had to drop tank and exhaust).

When it was done he measured it with side to side and it was within a "1/8 of a inch.

For it all $2500

http://www.livernoismotorsports.com/...k=1227&t=rides

V-10 Killer

iTrader: (22)

Thanks I'll shoot you a PM. I'm still undecided on the seat and harness I'm going to go with.
I think I've seen both you and DERTY around MotownMuscle's website. I got to talk breifly with STENOD about doing it, but couldn't get details. I was hoping I'd get to see you guys at Livernois openhouse, but I just finally got my 12 bolt today, and won't have the car tuned in time. Of course, the snow isn't helping any either

Birdie2000

iTrader: (15)

Definately try and get the details about it from him. You won't regret it.
http://community.webshots.com/user/fastblackcar94