Race car or street car?
#1
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Well i'm bored and since alot of people in here think my SI motor is not SI due to ARP rod bolts.
I was just wondering how many would say my car is a RACE CAR. here's the specs.
"SI" LS1 motor
TH350 w/ 5300 stall and transbrake
4.10 spooled 8.8 rear end
pacesetter LT with a bullet on each end, bullet extensions if you will
i roll on draglites 100% of the time 31" muddin tires on the street and 26x10 ET Drags for the strip and skinnies up front
NO ABS, A/C, heater, power steering, radio, back seats
5 point weld in CM roll bar
5 point harness for driver seat
tagged, inspected, full coverage insurance
my only car
i drive about 90 miles a day everyday(to work and back)
15 mpg in the city, 20 mpg on the highway
when at the track leaving the pass seat, floor mats, Tech 2, camcorder and otther misc stuff in it weighs about 3050 lbs w/ me in it.
and heres a pic of what the interior looks like
![Rolleyes](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/rolleyes.gif)
"SI" LS1 motor
TH350 w/ 5300 stall and transbrake
4.10 spooled 8.8 rear end
pacesetter LT with a bullet on each end, bullet extensions if you will
i roll on draglites 100% of the time 31" muddin tires on the street and 26x10 ET Drags for the strip and skinnies up front
NO ABS, A/C, heater, power steering, radio, back seats
5 point weld in CM roll bar
5 point harness for driver seat
tagged, inspected, full coverage insurance
my only car
i drive about 90 miles a day everyday(to work and back)
15 mpg in the city, 20 mpg on the highway
when at the track leaving the pass seat, floor mats, Tech 2, camcorder and otther misc stuff in it weighs about 3050 lbs w/ me in it.
and heres a pic of what the interior looks like
![](http://www.mustangmods.com/data/5388/69398385669_3300.jpg )
![](http://www.mustangmods.com/data/5388/69398203269_3300.jpg )
#6
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i think its stock internal... but not really a street car.. more like a race car u drive on the street.. and no way unless ur drving 25 mph u get that kinda gas mileage..
i guess the talll *** tires might help some.. but hel i dont even consider mine a full street car with a 3000 stall and lumpy cam.. i consider it more of a race car i drive on the street.
i guess the talll *** tires might help some.. but hel i dont even consider mine a full street car with a 3000 stall and lumpy cam.. i consider it more of a race car i drive on the street.
#7
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anywyas if there saying ur not stock internal.. **** em... sounds like ur just as fast as the fastest stock internal. so throw in a trex or a g5x4 like what his face did and run 10.30's and set the cam only record.
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#9
King of Pigskin Knowledge
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You drive it everyday and it's your only car. Street car in my book. Maybe more radical than most people would tolerate, and has a lot of stuff you usually don't see on dd's, but if you drive it 90 miles everyday, it's a street car to me. Hell, I have a T-Rex in my car, I would honestly dd the car if I didn't travel so much for work. My car isn't as "spartan" as your's though either.
I'd say stock internal too, rodbolts are not a big deal. Although if you have the stock cam, I don't know why you would bother to put them in since you probably don't shift too high anyway.
I'd say stock internal too, rodbolts are not a big deal. Although if you have the stock cam, I don't know why you would bother to put them in since you probably don't shift too high anyway.
#10
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Originally Posted by BuckeyeROC
I'd say stock internal too, rodbolts are not a big deal. Although if you have the stock cam, I don't know why you would bother to put them in since you probably don't shift too high anyway.
#12
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Originally Posted by gator's 99TA
how in the world do you fit 31" mud tires? are you kidding?
how in the world is the car 3050 lbs raceweight without the interior looking like total ****?
how in teh world do you get 20 mpg on the highway with the gearing and no overdrive??
how in the world is the car 3050 lbs raceweight without the interior looking like total ****?
how in teh world do you get 20 mpg on the highway with the gearing and no overdrive??
2.Alot of cutting, hole sawing and taking out every possible thing that i don't need(took out about 30 lbs of wiring, fuse boxes, relays and other computer boxes). I still need to buy a Kirkey race seat(and of course swiss cheese that also), tubular front control arms, drag shocks, drag springs and race brakes all the way around.
3.a VERY light car doesn't need much power to stay at 60 mph. I drive 44 miles one way to work about 42 of that is highway. the 31" tires help ALOT. 4.10's and 31" tires is about the same as 3.42's and stock size tires.
#14
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what would be intresting is to see him outrun magnus with either rod bolts.... he says hes unofficially the fastest, im assuming cuase of his rod bolts correct? but he hasn't even come close to magnus's time yet.. hasn't had a faster 1/8th mile yet even and hasn't run the 1/4
#15
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Originally Posted by glennster
It would be interesting to see the machine shop receipt showing what work was preformed and parts used............quite interesting indeed.How big a hole saw I need to get 32 MPG?
#16
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Originally Posted by LS1_PNYTAMR
what would be intresting is to see him outrun magnus with either rod bolts.... he says hes unofficially the fastest, im assuming cuase of his rod bolts correct? but he hasn't even come close to magnus's time yet.. hasn't had a faster 1/8th mile yet even and hasn't run the 1/4
"Hawkn01 ----- 11.256 @ 118.48 (1.52), 01 Firehawk A4, TCS4200, 3.73, 3086, 03/04" is the current fastest. unless he's changed his set up too.
in decent (for may) weather i ran a 7.05 @ 96 with about 50 lbs i was too lazy to take out of my car. That is more than enuff to run a VERY low 11 maybe even a high 10, so all i need is a trip to the 1/4 mile track in decent weather(wich around here is only open friday nights and i work nights so..
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#19
10 Second Club
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If it's technically legal and you drive it on the street it's a street car.
As far as the rod bolts go, if you upgraded to a stronger bolt thereby making the bottom end capable of withstanding more power, it's not SI anymore. I'd give it to you though cause I don't think there making a huge difference at your power level.
Besides anyone who drives a 5300 converter on the street regularly has my vote.
As far as the rod bolts go, if you upgraded to a stronger bolt thereby making the bottom end capable of withstanding more power, it's not SI anymore. I'd give it to you though cause I don't think there making a huge difference at your power level.
Besides anyone who drives a 5300 converter on the street regularly has my vote.
#20
8 Second Club
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If you drive it to work its a street car, I knew plenty of people that drove beaters that the heat, a/c and wipers didnt work and I would hardly call them a race car ![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
IMO if it has the stock crank, rods, pistons and camshaft its SI. If you mill your heads or put stronger springs on that is a clear advantage. If the bottom end was rebuilt, balanced, new bearings clearanced and squared up its still a stock bottom end but I dont make the rules..
What I dont agree with is 10.98 is the time to beat, whether magnus' car is still SI or not isnt the issue, he ran that time and thats the time to beat to claim to be the fastest. I think hawkn01 has head/cam now so he is out. You are running some awesome times and I'm not taking anything away but records are records even if the car doesnt exist any more.
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IMO if it has the stock crank, rods, pistons and camshaft its SI. If you mill your heads or put stronger springs on that is a clear advantage. If the bottom end was rebuilt, balanced, new bearings clearanced and squared up its still a stock bottom end but I dont make the rules..
What I dont agree with is 10.98 is the time to beat, whether magnus' car is still SI or not isnt the issue, he ran that time and thats the time to beat to claim to be the fastest. I think hawkn01 has head/cam now so he is out. You are running some awesome times and I'm not taking anything away but records are records even if the car doesnt exist any more.