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Need help, gotta get this car to hook!!!

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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 07:54 AM
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Default Need help, gotta get this car to hook!!!

So what do you guys think, am I doing something wrong?

Have Qa1's all around with qa1 springs up front and stockers out back
bmr adjustable panhard
bmr adjustable t/a mounted to my turbo 400 crossmember
bmr extreme duty rear swaybar
bmr lca relocate brackets and badz adjustable rod ended lca's to go in them (right now have lakewood non adjustables in the stock hole)
subframe connectors

I have the pinion angle set at -1.5 and I have tried all sorts of different combo's with the shocks and I just cannot get the car to hook!!! Got a turbo 400 coming off the t-brake with spray w/ 3.73's and 28" ET Drags. Any suggestions on shock settings to try, or pinion angles to try or what not would be appreciated!!! Or if anyone knows anyone in florida that is good with setting up our cars, let me know, cuz I really need it!!!
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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 12:22 PM
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Mismatched converter/stall/for a T-brake.
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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 12:30 PM
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Give us some more info. What is your stall, rpm launching. Shock settings, tire pressure, angle of attack on the lower control arms, angle of the t/a etc.
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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by MADMAN
Give us some more info. What is your stall, rpm launching. Shock settings, tire pressure, angle of attack on the lower control arms, angle of the t/a etc.
Yank SS4000E that I bought off Lee last year, it's stalling up too about 3800 - 3900 on the brake, and I have a two step, but haven't installed it yet.

Tried all different settings on shocks, started at 3 up front and 7 out back which is where she hooked pretty good on motor and it wouldn't hook very well, so I started making drastic changes and tried 4 up front and 3 out back cuz coach told me to try that once, and it hooked a little better, so then I tried 6 up front and 4 out back cuz big mike told me to try that once, and it hooked pretty close to the same as 4 and 3, but no matter what it was always spinning pretty bad!!!

I have the pinion angle at -1.5 setting it the way it says too on bmr's site with the pinion and driveshaft angles, and i'm not sure what you mean by angle of attack on the lca's? Right now I have lakewood non-adjustables in the stock hole on my relocate brackets, waitin for my badz adjustables to come in so I can go to the bottom hole, but not sure how much that will help. Also, the track prep usually isn't spectacular on a TnT night, so that plays into it a bit too! And I keep the tires at 12 psi cold.

Oh and forgot to mention the shocks are regular f series hals. And I also have my front left spring a little higher than the front right to try and put a little more weight on the right rear, but not sure how much cuz I don't have scales, it's about 1/8 - 1/4 of an inch higher than the right, a few people at the track told me to try that.
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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 12:49 PM
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how old of tires? my buddy had a set of slicks and just for him driving on the street with them, they got tore up pretty bad and went from a bolt on 6speed 60ft time of mid 1.5's to barely touching the 1.6's
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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Slow Z28
how old of tires? my buddy had a set of slicks and just for him driving on the street with them, they got tore up pretty bad and went from a bolt on 6speed 60ft time of mid 1.5's to barely touching the 1.6's
Not very old, about 15 motor passes, and about 9 spray passes last night!
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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 01:09 PM
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If your convertor is going to 3800 on motor then with the 100 shot it is going to 5000 on the gas. I would tighten the convertor up about 500. Also you want the lcas running up hill from the rear to the body about 2-3 degrees.
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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by MADMAN
If your convertor is going to 3800 on motor then with the 100 shot it is going to 5000 on the gas. I would tighten the convertor up about 500. Also you want the lcas running up hill from the rear to the body about 2-3 degrees.
Wow, you'd actually recommend to tighten the converter? I thought the thing was really tight as it was, hehe!! I do have a free restall though, but would prefer to do that as a last resort, i'd hate to have to pull the tranny out again and be down again for a little while during the process! What about the two step, you think that would help at all, or just make it worse giving it more flash and shocking the tires harder? Right now the lca's are probably even from rear to body, so when I get the adjustables, i'll pick the hole that will make them aim up 2 - 3 degrees, thanks for the info madman, ur the man!!! Any other thoughts though on shock settings too, like what have you found works the best?
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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Loudmouth LS1
i'll pick the hole that will make them aim up 2 - 3 degrees, thanks for the info madman, ur the man!!! Any other thoughts though on shock settings too, like what have you found works the best?
thats probably the middle hole...the bottom hole was about 6-7* by my measurements
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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Fireball
thats probably the middle hole...the bottom hole was about 6-7* by my measurements
Cool, thanks for the heads up, i'll start with the middle one first and see where that puts me.
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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 01:58 PM
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Shocks normally I start at 3 front and 6 rear. Your tires are close. What I do is have some one stand behind the car and look at the marks you leave when the car launches. You are looking for an even black track the same width as the tire. If the marks are darker on the outside then it needs air, lighter on the outside less air.
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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by MADMAN
Shocks normally I start at 3 front and 6 rear. Your tires are close. What I do is have some one stand behind the car and look at the marks you leave when the car launches. You are looking for an even black track the same width as the tire. If the marks are darker on the outside then it needs air, lighter on the outside less air.
Wow, that's about what I usually do, 3 up front and either 6 or 7 in the rear! I can't wait to get those adjustable lca's in and see if it helps at all! I'll have to have someone take a look the next time I go down the strip and see what kind of track i'm leaving.

So if ur on a garbage track and 3 and 6 doesn't hook, which way do you start adjusting them, so I have an idea of what to do to get her leavin at our track?
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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 02:35 PM
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I normally move the t/a BUT that is only on my bar. For you I would soften the rear a click MAYBE lose a 1/4 lb. of air.
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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 02:47 PM
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how old are the tires? There is a finite life to them and its usually way before the tread is all gone
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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by MADMAN
I normally move the t/a BUT that is only on my bar. For you I would soften the rear a click MAYBE lose a 1/4 lb. of air.
Cool, thanks for all the pointers man, can't wait to try all this out!
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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Fireball
how old are the tires? There is a finite life to them and its usually way before the tread is all gone
Like I said before, about 15 motor passes and 9 spray passes last night. And one track trip before I put the car down for the motor on spray with the stock motor, about 5 passes there, so maybe 29 or 30 passes in total. But i've never been able to get her to hook, so I don't think it's in the tires.
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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 03:04 PM
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30 PASSES is a lot on the 28s. I would recommend you get a set of 28x10.5S tires.
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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 03:19 PM
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Loudmouth LS1, You have gotten some really good advise from Madman and others. I would like to add something about the converter stall. I would contact the manufacture and give them the exact specs of the car and be clear an honest about what you want from the car/converter and what you a going to be doing with the car. It mite be in your best interest to sell the converter you have and get on specific to your application. I don't know much about the ss4000, but many of the street-strip converters are not very well suited to t-brake & sprayed launches. Converter technology as progrressed by leaps and bounds in the last few years and the the converter companys have become very efficient with nos converters.

Good Racing and Good luck!

maggie
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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Maggie
Loudmouth LS1, You have gotten some really good advise from Madman and others. I would like to add something about the converter stall. I would contact the manufacture and give them the exact specs of the car and be clear an honest about what you want from the car/converter and what you a going to be doing with the car. It mite be in your best interest to sell the converter you have and get on specific to your application. I don't know much about the ss4000, but many of the street-strip converters are not very well suited to t-brake & sprayed launches. Converter technology as progrressed by leaps and bounds in the last few years and the the converter companys have become very efficient with nos converters.

Good Racing and Good luck!

maggie
Thanks, i'll look into diff converters, it's just this converter seems to really like the spray, it's very efficient and actually very tight! What company's would you recommend calling up about verters?
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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by MADMAN
30 PASSES is a lot on the 28s. I would recommend you get a set of 28x10.5S tires.
Wow, I didn't think 30 was that big of a deal, I must've put like 50 - 60 easy on my old Hoosier's without any issues till like the last 5 - 10 of those passes (of course I did have a lot less power and was not spraying at the time, was just a measily old cam only car, hehe, so that probably came into play)! The 28x10.5S, isn't that the stiff sidewall tire? I thought that was only recommended for 6-speeds? I would think the stiffer sidewall would make it harder for me to hook, no?
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