I think i have the slowest Ls1 on earth:(
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i have my 98 ta a4 w/ 62k miles only mod is free ram air mod and k&N filter. Im down here in florida so i went to moroso tonight. About 80-83degrees dont know about humidity but prolly high. i only got one run it goes like this
60'----2.248
1/8th--9.219---79.44mph
1/4----14.196--98.90mph
what the heck? i know my 60' sucks but still MPH should be higher by a few mph right?
I dont think the car has ever had the plugs/wires changed....could this be the cause? other than that im confused.
The only thing that makes me feel better was i raced a 05 GTO 6 speed with 1000miles on it...he ran
60'---2.323
1/8th-9.305----79.78mph
1/4----14.133---100.27mph
but he has a 6 speed and is still getting used to his car...there is no excuse for me right?
could the heat and humidity hurt me that much? i know the track is around 23feet above sea level, so its not elevation.
Any info is appreciated
60'----2.248
1/8th--9.219---79.44mph
1/4----14.196--98.90mph
what the heck? i know my 60' sucks but still MPH should be higher by a few mph right?
I dont think the car has ever had the plugs/wires changed....could this be the cause? other than that im confused.
The only thing that makes me feel better was i raced a 05 GTO 6 speed with 1000miles on it...he ran
60'---2.323
1/8th-9.305----79.78mph
1/4----14.133---100.27mph
but he has a 6 speed and is still getting used to his car...there is no excuse for me right?
could the heat and humidity hurt me that much? i know the track is around 23feet above sea level, so its not elevation.
Any info is appreciated
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Originally Posted by pottskies
Im down here in florida so i went to moroso tonight.
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Originally Posted by BlueSix
That's your problem. Racing in Florida in the summer is kind of like racing in an aquarium.
Ditto. You answered your own question...
Jon
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Originally Posted by pottskies
so ya think the heat and humidity are hurting me that much? if my 60' was down to a 2.0 what would my time be....13.8?
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Originally Posted by pottskies
i have my 98 ta a4 w/ 62k miles only mod is free ram air mod and k&N filter. Im down here in florida so i went to moroso tonight. About 80-83degrees dont know about humidity but prolly high. i only got one run it goes like this
60'----2.248
1/8th--9.219---79.44mph
1/4----14.196--98.90mph
what the heck? i know my 60' sucks but still MPH should be higher by a few mph right?
I dont think the car has ever had the plugs/wires changed....could this be the cause? other than that im confused.
The only thing that makes me feel better was i raced a 05 GTO 6 speed with 1000miles on it...he ran
60'---2.323
1/8th-9.305----79.78mph
1/4----14.133---100.27mph
but he has a 6 speed and is still getting used to his car...there is no excuse for me right?
could the heat and humidity hurt me that much? i know the track is around 23feet above sea level, so its not elevation.
Any info is appreciated
60'----2.248
1/8th--9.219---79.44mph
1/4----14.196--98.90mph
what the heck? i know my 60' sucks but still MPH should be higher by a few mph right?
I dont think the car has ever had the plugs/wires changed....could this be the cause? other than that im confused.
The only thing that makes me feel better was i raced a 05 GTO 6 speed with 1000miles on it...he ran
60'---2.323
1/8th-9.305----79.78mph
1/4----14.133---100.27mph
but he has a 6 speed and is still getting used to his car...there is no excuse for me right?
could the heat and humidity hurt me that much? i know the track is around 23feet above sea level, so its not elevation.
Any info is appreciated
![Sad](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_sad.gif)
If you have a little extra coin, you might go to a custom exhaust shop and get a 3" cutout installed. Ask around your area and find a shop who knows F-bodies and it will be very reasonable. ($40.00 installed or less) Get the wing nuts on the cap so you can easily remove it. Although most guys leave them open all the time after they get one.
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
This one simple mod has been dyno proven to add 15 to 17 rear wheel HP.
Do one thing at a time, so you know what is giving you the help. Next thing you can do to help your cause (although a little more expensive) and you probably already know this. . . is to buy some drag radials. I have tried several brands, BFG, Nitto, and recently M/T. The Mickey's are by far the stickiest, but wear out quickly. The Nitto 555 Drag radial has out performed the BFG, and lasted the longest doing street and strip duties for me. Not bad in the rain either, if you use your head and slow down a little.
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
Try these thing one at a time if you so choose, and see the difference. After those mods, your next one would logically be a stall converter. The Vig 3200 is quite street friendly, (there are plenty of other brand choices) and will be like night and day for your 60' times. If you want another easy 15 RWHP or so, you could find somebody selling an LS6 intake manifold. The 1998 thru 2000 cars always dyno less than the O1 & 02 because of the intake. Next comes long tube headers, etc. etc. . . it never ends. At some point you will benefit by finding someone with HP tuners/LS1 Edit, or any tuning software, and get your evil GM torque management deleted, set your shift points, Air fuel ratio, etc. Oh, and another important mod that you should try to get ASAP is some sort of subframe connectors. These cars tend to try to twist themselves into pretzels when beat on. The SFC's will stiffen up the frame and save a lot of wear and tear, not to mention preventing rattles.
![Hail](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_hail.gif)
Just a few things to try and see if you can get into the 13.xx, and march to the high 12's. . .
Good luck, we've all been there.
![Driving](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_driving3.gif)
Last edited by ChevyGoldfinger; 07-30-2005 at 12:34 PM.
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I have a 99 M6 SS with Lid, K&N and Hypetech tuner. I just took my car to the track and ran 9 flats consistantly around 81-82 mph. My 60' time also sucked...2.3" and up! I should have gotten into the 8's but it was 95 degrees with 65% humidity. I'm sure that alone killed me! You, like me will just have to spend some money and make them much faster!
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nothing unusual. here's the timeslips from the 99 TA i had. http://stealthram.com/99tatimeslip.htm
14.146 @ 98.01 completely stock
13.802 @ 100.25 after i changed the plugs, wires, and fuel filter.
car had 98k on it.
14.146 @ 98.01 completely stock
13.802 @ 100.25 after i changed the plugs, wires, and fuel filter.
car had 98k on it.
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Get your 60' times down and watch your ET drop. Are you manually shifting the car or just leaving it in Drive?
I ran the 00 Z/28 in the dead of summer in 95* heat and it ran a 13.8@103 and in the spring time in 75* heat was 13.4@104.
I would do the coolant bypass, EGR delete mod, and like it said, put a cutout on and a lid. Those 3 we/ the free ram air mod woke up the car bigtime.
I ran the 00 Z/28 in the dead of summer in 95* heat and it ran a 13.8@103 and in the spring time in 75* heat was 13.4@104.
I would do the coolant bypass, EGR delete mod, and like it said, put a cutout on and a lid. Those 3 we/ the free ram air mod woke up the car bigtime.
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Originally Posted by ChevyGoldfinger
As previously mentioned, everyone's times suffer during the summer heat/humidity.
If you have a little extra coin, you might go to a custom exhaust shop and get a 3" cutout installed. Ask around your area and find a shop who knows F-bodies and it will be very reasonable. ($40.00 installed or less) Get the wing nuts on the cap so you can easily remove it. Although most guys leave them open all the time after they get one.
This one simple mod has been dyno proven to add 15 to 17 rear wheel HP.
Do one thing at a time, so you know what is giving you the help. Next thing you can do to help your cause (although a little more expensive) and you probably already know this. . . is to buy some drag radials. I have tried several brands, BFG, Nitto, and recently M/T. The Mickey's are by far the stickiest, but wear out quickly. The Nitto 555 Drag radial has out performed the BFG, and lasted the longest doing street and strip duties for me. Not bad in the rain either, if you use your head and slow down a little.
Try these thing one at a time if you so choose, and see the difference. After those mods, your next one would logically be a stall converter. The Vig 3200 is quite street friendly, (there are plenty of other brand choices) and will be like night and day for your 60' times. If you want another easy 15 RWHP or so, you could find somebody selling an LS6 intake manifold. The 1998 thru 2000 cars always dyno less than the O1 & 02 because of the intake. Next comes long tube headers, etc. etc. . . it never ends. At some point you will benefit by finding someone with HP tuners/LS1 Edit, or any tuning software, and get your evil GM torque management deleted, set your shift points, Air fuel ratio, etc. Oh, and another important mod that you should try to get ASAP is some sort of subframe connectors. These cars tend to try to twist themselves into pretzels when beat on. The SFC's will stiffen up the frame and save a lot of wear and tear, not to mention preventing rattles.
Just a few things to try and see if you can get into the 13.xx, and march to the high 12's. . .
Good luck, we've all been there.![Driving](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_driving3.gif)
![Sad](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_sad.gif)
If you have a little extra coin, you might go to a custom exhaust shop and get a 3" cutout installed. Ask around your area and find a shop who knows F-bodies and it will be very reasonable. ($40.00 installed or less) Get the wing nuts on the cap so you can easily remove it. Although most guys leave them open all the time after they get one.
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
This one simple mod has been dyno proven to add 15 to 17 rear wheel HP.
Do one thing at a time, so you know what is giving you the help. Next thing you can do to help your cause (although a little more expensive) and you probably already know this. . . is to buy some drag radials. I have tried several brands, BFG, Nitto, and recently M/T. The Mickey's are by far the stickiest, but wear out quickly. The Nitto 555 Drag radial has out performed the BFG, and lasted the longest doing street and strip duties for me. Not bad in the rain either, if you use your head and slow down a little.
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
Try these thing one at a time if you so choose, and see the difference. After those mods, your next one would logically be a stall converter. The Vig 3200 is quite street friendly, (there are plenty of other brand choices) and will be like night and day for your 60' times. If you want another easy 15 RWHP or so, you could find somebody selling an LS6 intake manifold. The 1998 thru 2000 cars always dyno less than the O1 & 02 because of the intake. Next comes long tube headers, etc. etc. . . it never ends. At some point you will benefit by finding someone with HP tuners/LS1 Edit, or any tuning software, and get your evil GM torque management deleted, set your shift points, Air fuel ratio, etc. Oh, and another important mod that you should try to get ASAP is some sort of subframe connectors. These cars tend to try to twist themselves into pretzels when beat on. The SFC's will stiffen up the frame and save a lot of wear and tear, not to mention preventing rattles.
![Hail](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_hail.gif)
Just a few things to try and see if you can get into the 13.xx, and march to the high 12's. . .
Good luck, we've all been there.
![Driving](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_driving3.gif)
not everyone's times suffer in the summer, people using nitrous have the perfect atmosphere in a bottle
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
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Originally Posted by JustAnIlluzion
not everyone's times suffer in the summer, people using nitrous have the perfect atmosphere in a bottle ![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
#14
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Originally Posted by Got Me SOM
change the oil, fuel filter and plugs and air filter then go back out.
If you can pull one plug on each bank and "read" it, you may or may not need to change them. If you cannot read plugs, just take good quality digi pics of them and post them back here.
Try dong these things one at a time and then going to the track. That way you will know for sure when something helps you. If you wait too long, the colder weather will automatically help you.
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
#15
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I think heat/humidity is worse than just heat alone. I had similar results at E-Town this weekend. I just the heat alone I ran 2 mph faster and 3 tenths quicker.
Regards,
Regards,
#16
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Temp./Humidity is a time killer; but still you should be .5 sec. quicker. With only FRA, lid and ported MAF I ran 13.290 @ 108 in Ga. I had a similarly dismal 2.2x 60 ft. then also. Maybe the weather then was not quite as shitty
.
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One the most often overlooked factors in weather is the barometer reading. A low summertime pressure like 28.5 can really suck some power. When it cools off and that high pressure front comes in, like 30.8, look out!