12.7 so far, 1500 to spend, what should i do?
08-18-2005, 01:27 AM
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12.7 so far, 1500 to spend, what should i do? Best run so far 12.7@113...its an 01 SS M6
mods: LT's, true duals, nittos, lid, free stuff
I have 1500 to spend, actually 2000, but i need brakes, and my k member is cracked so i'm trying to justify 500 for the bmr piece, or just get a stock one.
anyways, lets just say 1500...what should i do, the car will not be driven on the street that much. i was thinkin big cam(magic stick), gears...and i dunno.
thanks guys
mods: LT's, true duals, nittos, lid, free stuff
I have 1500 to spend, actually 2000, but i need brakes, and my k member is cracked so i'm trying to justify 500 for the bmr piece, or just get a stock one.
anyways, lets just say 1500...what should i do, the car will not be driven on the street that much. i was thinkin big cam(magic stick), gears...and i dunno.
thanks guys
08-18-2005, 08:04 AM
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I second the vote for the cam, but have never been a fan of putting gears in a 10 bolt. I would get the cam, install it yourself, get a tune, and lastly save for a rear end with the gears that you will soon need if you drag the car. A clutch is a good idea, but since they aren't that expensive, i would just get one when your stock one lets go. i don't see any sense in spending money on something that can get you by and isn't broke yet. Not saying that stock clutches are great by any means, but i believe in getting by with things for awhile. JMHO. Good luck.
08-18-2005, 08:19 AM
#4
I dunno.. I'd vote for doing al the suspension and chassis work first.. let's you get used to the car, get teh suspension working and do power as you max out the chassis... you break way less stuff that way, learn your car alot better that way, and end up going faster in teh long run and spend less $$ too in the long run.. remember, you can sell a stock part that's still good.. a broken one goes in the garbage can.
I'd start with a rear, think about the direction with the motor you will go and gear accordingly. DO rear suspension stuff, frame connectors, all that next. Oh, get a good driveshaft when you do the rear... so you don't toss the stocker. A loop is a good idea too... and needed for most places. Once that stuff is done, shocks would be the next good investment, then a clutch... keep a heavy flywheel on , it will launch better wiht that, then start adding power. Seems like alot longer path to a faster e.t., but the reliability that you will keep, and the $$ you can recoup from selling the parts you take off before they break is well worth it. Removing weight as well is also a good idea.. as you buy the suspension stuff, save the $$ and go for the lightweight ones.. chromoly everywhere you can, etc. etc. Will help with the weight in the long run.. which always helps the e.t.
I'd start with a rear, think about the direction with the motor you will go and gear accordingly. DO rear suspension stuff, frame connectors, all that next. Oh, get a good driveshaft when you do the rear... so you don't toss the stocker. A loop is a good idea too... and needed for most places. Once that stuff is done, shocks would be the next good investment, then a clutch... keep a heavy flywheel on , it will launch better wiht that, then start adding power. Seems like alot longer path to a faster e.t., but the reliability that you will keep, and the $$ you can recoup from selling the parts you take off before they break is well worth it. Removing weight as well is also a good idea.. as you buy the suspension stuff, save the $$ and go for the lightweight ones.. chromoly everywhere you can, etc. etc. Will help with the weight in the long run.. which always helps the e.t.
08-18-2005, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
I dunno.. I'd vote for doing al the suspension and chassis work first.. let's you get used to the car, get teh suspension working and do power as you max out the chassis... you break way less stuff that way, learn your car alot better that way, and end up going faster in teh long run and spend less $$ too in the long run.. remember, you can sell a stock part that's still good.. a broken one goes in the garbage can.
I'd start with a rear, think about the direction with the motor you will go and gear accordingly. DO rear suspension stuff, frame connectors, all that next. Oh, get a good driveshaft when you do the rear... so you don't toss the stocker. A loop is a good idea too... and needed for most places. Once that stuff is done, shocks would be the next good investment, then a clutch... keep a heavy flywheel on , it will launch better wiht that, then start adding power. Seems like alot longer path to a faster e.t., but the reliability that you will keep, and the $$ you can recoup from selling the parts you take off before they break is well worth it. Removing weight as well is also a good idea.. as you buy the suspension stuff, save the $$ and go for the lightweight ones.. chromoly everywhere you can, etc. etc. Will help with the weight in the long run.. which always helps the e.t.
I'd start with a rear, think about the direction with the motor you will go and gear accordingly. DO rear suspension stuff, frame connectors, all that next. Oh, get a good driveshaft when you do the rear... so you don't toss the stocker. A loop is a good idea too... and needed for most places. Once that stuff is done, shocks would be the next good investment, then a clutch... keep a heavy flywheel on , it will launch better wiht that, then start adding power. Seems like alot longer path to a faster e.t., but the reliability that you will keep, and the $$ you can recoup from selling the parts you take off before they break is well worth it. Removing weight as well is also a good idea.. as you buy the suspension stuff, save the $$ and go for the lightweight ones.. chromoly everywhere you can, etc. etc. Will help with the weight in the long run.. which always helps the e.t.
I'm just lookin for a good power increase for now, maybe something to help the cam out a little bit somewhere, and because the car isn't gonna be driven all that much, i'm not really worried about to much breaking. by the time i do drive/drag the car, i will surely have all the essentials in place.
So would you all agree with a cam/tune...and a few little things out back? no gears, but maybe the panhard and control arms? i dunno i just wanna get the most out of it for now, for 1500...
thanks again
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08-19-2005, 12:56 AM
#8
Gears will be neded.. just don't waste your $$ on doing them in the 10 bolt. If you had an auto car, I'd say go for that, but with the stick.. they and the rear are gonna last alot shorter period.
Cam, associated parts (springs, retainers, pushrods, etc.) and a pulley will be a good gain. Get a new timing chain ls2 piece is a good way to go cheaply. No need for a double roller, with all the shimming and whatnot, it's not worth it. Also, being that your car is an 01, you probably have good oil pressure.. if so, don't worry about the oil pump. I left mine alone, still @ 40 psi at idle, which is plenty. That's another thing that can be skipped. A ported TB will also help, if you are patient, and good with a dremel, you can try to do it yourself, if not, let an expert do it.
I suggested the rear as taht's a surefire thing that with gears will give you a good gain.
Look in teh used parts section, there's usually a couple for sale, I think TTP also has one with 4.56 gears for sale too, whole unit. Might wanna call on that one, it is described a being 800 miles old... probably worth considering.
Cam, associated parts (springs, retainers, pushrods, etc.) and a pulley will be a good gain. Get a new timing chain ls2 piece is a good way to go cheaply. No need for a double roller, with all the shimming and whatnot, it's not worth it. Also, being that your car is an 01, you probably have good oil pressure.. if so, don't worry about the oil pump. I left mine alone, still @ 40 psi at idle, which is plenty. That's another thing that can be skipped. A ported TB will also help, if you are patient, and good with a dremel, you can try to do it yourself, if not, let an expert do it.
I suggested the rear as taht's a surefire thing that with gears will give you a good gain.
Look in teh used parts section, there's usually a couple for sale, I think TTP also has one with 4.56 gears for sale too, whole unit. Might wanna call on that one, it is described a being 800 miles old... probably worth considering.
08-19-2005, 02:54 AM
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
Gears will be neded.. just don't waste your $$ on doing them in the 10 bolt. If you had an auto car, I'd say go for that, but with the stick.. they and the rear are gonna last alot shorter period.
Cam, associated parts (springs, retainers, pushrods, etc.) and a pulley will be a good gain. Get a new timing chain ls2 piece is a good way to go cheaply. No need for a double roller, with all the shimming and whatnot, it's not worth it. Also, being that your car is an 01, you probably have good oil pressure.. if so, don't worry about the oil pump. I left mine alone, still @ 40 psi at idle, which is plenty. That's another thing that can be skipped. A ported TB will also help, if you are patient, and good with a dremel, you can try to do it yourself, if not, let an expert do it.
I suggested the rear as taht's a surefire thing that with gears will give you a good gain.
Look in teh used parts section, there's usually a couple for sale, I think TTP also has one with 4.56 gears for sale too, whole unit. Might wanna call on that one, it is described a being 800 miles old... probably worth considering.
Cam, associated parts (springs, retainers, pushrods, etc.) and a pulley will be a good gain. Get a new timing chain ls2 piece is a good way to go cheaply. No need for a double roller, with all the shimming and whatnot, it's not worth it. Also, being that your car is an 01, you probably have good oil pressure.. if so, don't worry about the oil pump. I left mine alone, still @ 40 psi at idle, which is plenty. That's another thing that can be skipped. A ported TB will also help, if you are patient, and good with a dremel, you can try to do it yourself, if not, let an expert do it.
I suggested the rear as taht's a surefire thing that with gears will give you a good gain.
Look in teh used parts section, there's usually a couple for sale, I think TTP also has one with 4.56 gears for sale too, whole unit. Might wanna call on that one, it is described a being 800 miles old... probably worth considering.
08-19-2005, 07:17 AM
#10
Check the sponsors, SDPC I think is the cheapest place for the chain, and I think TSP has a pulley that's relativly inexpensive, not an asp, another one that they get, supposed to be a good piece. Ask them about the chain too.. always easier to call one place then calling 10.
As for the cam... Eastside has a cam that they did in my car, that's now a standard item I think after the results they had with my car.. made 403 to the tires thru a steel driveshaft and a 12 bolt. If a cam is what you wanan go with, I'd think about calling them about that. Not the cheapest one out there to buy, but it definately works, and makes strong power, the important part. Check around and see what people have for spring/retainer packages, the patriot dual gold's are a good deal, good springs and reaonable priced. Pushrods can be had from alot fo the sponsors too, whoever you call about the other valvetrain parts inquire about the springs.
As for the cam... Eastside has a cam that they did in my car, that's now a standard item I think after the results they had with my car.. made 403 to the tires thru a steel driveshaft and a 12 bolt. If a cam is what you wanan go with, I'd think about calling them about that. Not the cheapest one out there to buy, but it definately works, and makes strong power, the important part. Check around and see what people have for spring/retainer packages, the patriot dual gold's are a good deal, good springs and reaonable priced. Pushrods can be had from alot fo the sponsors too, whoever you call about the other valvetrain parts inquire about the springs.
08-19-2005, 07:54 AM
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I have my personal Moser 12-bolt fo rsale. 4-channel abs, exc rings pressed on, HD eaton posi, 33 spline axles, t/a cover, 1350 yoke. It has about 900 miles on it now once I bring it back to the shop from L.I. I would part with it asap for $1600 cash + your stock rear. If you give me your 10bolt I'll remove it and install the 12-bolt for free.
-Matt
-Matt
08-19-2005, 10:23 AM
#12
There you go... wanna spend some cash on your car that's 100% worth while, this is the best thing you can do.... you won't regret it either. You can add as much power the world has to offer.. but you'll never be able to replace the abliity of a real hard launch on slicks.. 12 bolt will make that possible, never mind the reliability that's gained. I'd go for the rear upgrade.
08-19-2005, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by TTPMatt
I have my personal Moser 12-bolt fo rsale. 4-channel abs, exc rings pressed on, HD eaton posi, 33 spline axles, t/a cover, 1350 yoke. It has about 900 miles on it now once I bring it back to the shop from L.I. I would part with it asap for $1600 cash + your stock rear. If you give me your 10bolt I'll remove it and install the 12-bolt for free.
-Matt
-Matt
08-20-2005, 06:21 AM
#17
It will work for 4 channel setup.
The install, swapping an entire axle for an entire axle, just removing the brakes and whatnot is probably a 5 hour job with 2 people, and I'm talking the entire time to remove and install the rear, and put your old one back in the other car... real easy.
The install, swapping an entire axle for an entire axle, just removing the brakes and whatnot is probably a 5 hour job with 2 people, and I'm talking the entire time to remove and install the rear, and put your old one back in the other car... real easy.