Loudmouth LS1

iTrader: (10)

Cool, maybe i'll grab a set when I call ya for the torque arm next week!

Terry'sToy

Again, thanks to Madman and everyone else in this thread for there input.

I went to the track Sunday with the real slicks and the real slick is way more consistant. The car 60'd every pass at 1.717-1.720. Shitty 60's but consistant. The weather was crappy and the track is ****. I won't be going back there, but I did learn somemore about burnouts etc. I did a big burnout the first pass and the tire temp was 100*F above track temp.
Every pass after that I did the as suggested small burnout and kept the tire within 25* and the tire spun about a 1/2 turn and hooked. This saves tires bigtime.
I will go back to my normal track this sunday and go for broke with the real slicks again. This track hooks and with a consistant tire, I will be able to tune the suspension better.
I also find that poly suspension pieces are **** for drag racing. They just don't move very well unless you loosen them all up. Then after the race I have to crawl back under the car and tighten **** up. I will be building Heim end pieces for next season.

Terry'sToy

I should go hunt some springs down. But, what is the advantage to the lighter rear spring?
Does it let the diff pound into the ground quicker?

Thanks

Wnts2Go10O

iTrader: (12)

the advantage is, i think, it allows the weight from the front go to the rear with minimal effort. it lets the body push the rear into the ground easier, so to speak. someone correct me if im wrongm but thats wht makes the most sense.

Got Me SOM

iTrader: (2)

Next when you get back, I need some help with my car.

I'm sure when you get back you'll be a member of the 8 sec club.

Terry'sToy

onfire,
I missed one of your questions.
I have stock WS6 springs in the rear with the isolator removed. I also removed the bump stops to give more room for travel.
Removing the rubber spacer/isolator drops the car about an inch.
Just for info My fronts are Hal 300's but I wish I had 325's as the springs are adjusted to within a 1/2" from the top thread.

Terry'sToy

Which is the best V6 rear spring to get. I mean which rear?

Thanks

Terry'sToy

Last update,
got a set of 6 cyl springs, MOOG CC635's, installed them and at the same time I removed the air bag.
The V6 springs new were $100. These springs have a 107 lbs/in rating. They let the diff. pound into the ground much quicker and easier. I couldn't tune the shocks very well with the WS6 springs as they are too stiff. Now I can make shock adjustments and it starts to make a difference, although I didn't have enough time to really play more. Eliminations were on.
I also put a 1/2 inch spacer in the passenger side rear sway bar.(stock factory WS6 bar). Bolted the slicks on at 13 psi, set front shocks on 2 rear on 3. Dead hooked every pass at 1.63, lifting the drivers front a couple of inches and the passenger side about a 1/2 inch. The 60' never moved out of the 1.63's.
Finished 4th.
Now I just have to fine tune a little more, like more tire pressure and higher shock settings to get the 60's even lower. Also I need to tune for more power,but that will come later.

Thanks again MADMAN and everyone else who helped.
I've got the car to go from spinning the 60' with slicks to Dead hookin.

kevredz

iTrader: (2)

I noticed that on the Summit website the part# MOG-CC635 is listed for a V8 or a V6 model. Are they still weaker than the stock V8 springs?

(Either way they are still much weaker than the Ws6/1LE spring)

Got Me SOM

iTrader: (2)

how are those 6 cyl springs on the street? Will they be too bouncy?

Terry'sToy

Yeah, I know, I had a hard time trying to find the correct spring. I searched the **** out of the website here and couldn't find exactly what I wanted.
I'm not sure if they are softer than the stock V8 springs.
The parts stores don't list any other spring. The did list a different spring for 92 and earlier as an option to the CC635, but I looked up the specs and they are pretty much the same spring other than they have an installed height 1/4" less than the CC635. The spring rate was 107 on one of them and 104 on the other.
The only other option was to get the other springs Madman suggested, but I didn't have time as I was racing the next day.
The CC635's are softer than my WS6 springs and they ride just fine on the street. I actually like them better than my WS6 springs. I found them kinda harsh.

Terry

jerflash

yo this is a great thread

im learnin alot

SlickVert

iTrader: (5)

This thread is good but now we need the info on how to tune the suspension at the track.
Like what should be the initial setting, what order of adjustment (tire psi, front shocks or rear shocks ect. ect.) and how to read our car and what to adjust next. I know it is hard to describe how to tune suspension without seeing the car actually launch but I think we could get the basic info here.
I know it would take dam near a life time to get some of your insight/experience (like Madman) but any info would help.
Thanks, Getting Faster

MADMAN

iTrader: (4)

The biggest thing to tuning at the track is learning to read the track and learning what your car wants.

On the track you need to learn where the groove is. Go to the starting line before you run and look at the surface. Find the track temp, where the groove is, where the bald spots are etc. Then go get in the car and line your car up in the spot you picked. If the track is hot do a short burnout to clean the tires and stage the car. If the track is cold do a longer burnout. Too many people do too long a burnout.

After you stage you need to learn what the feels like leaving. It helps to video the car from the rear quarter so you can see the tire and body of the car. You need to see how the car responded to the groove you put yourself in. Then after you leave someone , usually the guy with the camera needs to look at the track and see what the contact patch was from the rear tires. All of this will tell you whether you need to make a shock adjustment, tire pressure change, different burnout or pick a different groove. Everything about the pass needs to be documented then make one change at a time. Always make at least 2 passes between changes so you can tell you whether you are on the right track.

SlickVert

iTrader: (5)

What are we looking for on the track grooves?
When I have walked the starting line at my local track. I would see a slightly shinny track with two dull grooves. When I would walk across the track, the track would be slightly stick in the shinny spots and not sticky in the dull grooves.
Is that normal?

Loudmouth LS1

iTrader: (10)

Nothings normal with Moroso, the track sucks!

SlickVert

iTrader: (5)

I hear that!

Loudmouth LS1

iTrader: (10)

Yeah, I just ordered a t/a from madman, hopin between that, a new set of slicks, and some other suspension adjustments, maybe I can start hookin even at moroso!

Got Me SOM

iTrader: (2)

is it worth to put 6 cyl springs on my car? all i have done is lca's with relo brackets.

Terry'sToy

After re-reading this, and reading more of Madmans posts I have discovered that putting a 1/2" spacer in the passenger side rear swaybar is wrong. This effectively removes weight from this tire. Really the car hooked because of the springs and mostly because of the tire pressure. Now I need to keep bumping the tire pressure up to get those sixty's down.
Damn this sport takes some smart people to make it all work perfect.

Thanks again to Madman.

Terry