Why do M6s turn in crap results at the strip, cam only?
#121
Originally Posted by SMOKIN01TA
im not reading all the pages but ima respond to the title of the tread, m6 dont ever turn out crappy times, its either the setup, the driver or the tunner, not the tranny, no matter what my weight has been, the car has always performed excelent if driven to its potential
#123
With 365 rwhp I have gone 12.70 at 113. I think my hp #'s are low which sucks, and my et is not good either. If I had some sticky tires and could learn to drive, I think low 12's could be possible. My 60's (2.0 seconds) even with nitto's are TERRIBLE!
#124
With 365 rwhp I have gone 12.70 at 113. I think my hp #'s are low which sucks, and my et is not good either. If I had some sticky tires and could learn to drive, I think low 12's could be possible. My 60's (2.0 seconds) even with nitto's are TERRIBLE!
#125
Originally Posted by sdiddy
With 365 rwhp I have gone 12.70 at 113. I think my hp #'s are low which sucks, and my et is not good either. If I had some sticky tires and could learn to drive, I think low 12's could be possible. My 60's (2.0 seconds) even with nitto's are TERRIBLE!
#126
Originally Posted by sdiddy
With 365 rwhp I have gone 12.70 at 113. I think my hp #'s are low which sucks, and my et is not good either. If I had some sticky tires and could learn to drive, I think low 12's could be possible. My 60's (2.0 seconds) even with nitto's are TERRIBLE!
What track are you running at? Any idea what the DA was when you ran the 12.70 @ 113?
#127
Originally Posted by Vortec5300
I understand that the 60' is directly related to the 330's and 1/4, but I "thought" you should be able to 60' a 1.90 and still 330' 5.0s-5.10s. There are lots of guys on this very board claiming that in their sigs and every stock Z06 vette does it. Hell maybe it is all in the 60' but I would still think my car should be getting more then 87-88 in the 1/8 and 112-113 in the 1/4. If I didn't see it dyno myself many times, I would guess it had 340hp. I mean after all, a stock TA with a M6 runs 12.90s, with some bolt ons but stock internals they easily run 12.5-12.70s, why is adding the cam making it so much harder to run the same numbers? let alone better numbers. Basically, the car needs torque, just like they have when they are stock. I guess a lot of guys on the board either have more parts/power then they claim or they really don't run as quick as advertised, I don't know.
I am just wondering if its worth trying to change to a smaller cam or will the problem still be there? Is a 12bolt the only cure? If I spend $3k on a rear, dump it at 5k and it runs 12.50s I will be REALLY pissed...LOL
I am just wondering if its worth trying to change to a smaller cam or will the problem still be there? Is a 12bolt the only cure? If I spend $3k on a rear, dump it at 5k and it runs 12.50s I will be REALLY pissed...LOL
Jon
#128
Holy thread resurrection BATMAN!
BTW, my car is still a turd..
Jon, I guess you put some more goodies in your car since I saw you at G-Force last. I still haven't decided what to do to mine. I am leaving it as is for now as I am buying a house but.. I think the 12 bolt and 27" slicks will be the first mods. Then some 205 AFRs and a new tune.
BTW, my car is still a turd..
Jon, I guess you put some more goodies in your car since I saw you at G-Force last. I still haven't decided what to do to mine. I am leaving it as is for now as I am buying a house but.. I think the 12 bolt and 27" slicks will be the first mods. Then some 205 AFRs and a new tune.
#130
Originally Posted by Vortec5300
I know ALL the M6s make good dyno numbers with bolt ons and cams, but it seems that most of them don't run well at the strip. Mine included. After difficulty getting my car to run the numbers at the strip, I did a search here and it seems LOTS of M6, full weight cars are NOT running anywhere where they should be. Its becoming apparent to me that we all got bit by the bigger is better thing on the cam. I guess with aftermarket cams, driving them outta the hole and letting the motor do the work is just a memory? Are 5k clutch dumps the only way to get the full weight cars to 330' with cam only? WTF?
WHo is running decent times at the strip with full weight, street cars? not stripped, drag suspended, 6k rpm launches with cam onlys? I was under the impression low 12s was the norm with 380+hp full weight but apparently its not that easy with M6s?
I guess I am looking for a new cam now, something that actually makes some power below 4500, thinking TR 224/228, this a good one for the strip that actually makes some torque?
WHo is running decent times at the strip with full weight, street cars? not stripped, drag suspended, 6k rpm launches with cam onlys? I was under the impression low 12s was the norm with 380+hp full weight but apparently its not that easy with M6s?
I guess I am looking for a new cam now, something that actually makes some power below 4500, thinking TR 224/228, this a good one for the strip that actually makes some torque?
#131
ls1 12.6 @ 112.8 1.93 60' .......now crate ls6 11.88 @ 119.4 1.85 60' (on 18's) 407.1 rwhp & 388.7 rwtq---
#132
ya i've done afew things to my car since i seen you at G-Force (H/C/I) the clutch is here, but im being lazy and havent installed it yet. kinda waiting for my SFC's, PHB to get here too so i can just knock them all out in the same day/2. so ill post here once i get it all in and to the track for whoever's keeping tabs. i've got a NX MAF kit coming as well, plan is a 150 wet shot, so im setting my car up for that (fuel, ect.) but i need a 12 bolt like, today. anyhow, good luck with the house & the car.
Jon
Jon
#133
yeah Vortec it's a stone stock internally ls6. I might put some dr's on it next year and see just how fast it'll go, well if I can get a rear together. What rpms do you shift At?
#134
I shift around 6400-6500 indicated which is around 6700-6800 rpms. It didn't really make any difference though if I shifted at 6100-6200 indicated though.
HIO, your car is running REALLY well. Considering lots of Z06s don't even run 119mph and you weigh 500lbs more then them.
Man I would settle for some 12.20s@115 consistantly...
Problem is, with the 4.10s, I can't even spray it at the track because it runs out of gear in 4th. Its on the limiter at 120mph. I am gonna have to get some 26-27" tires and that might not even make enough difference.
HIO, your car is running REALLY well. Considering lots of Z06s don't even run 119mph and you weigh 500lbs more then them.
Man I would settle for some 12.20s@115 consistantly...
Problem is, with the 4.10s, I can't even spray it at the track because it runs out of gear in 4th. Its on the limiter at 120mph. I am gonna have to get some 26-27" tires and that might not even make enough difference.
#135
Thanks. Where you at? Is altitude a problem there? 4.10's would be a limiting factor w/ nos, it's almost a factor for me now, but I busted my 4.10's and had to put the 3.42 back in. I thought about trying 3.73 which should work good with your nos to.
#137
Hi "5300"...you mentioned that you had a "mcloud" clutch, i have done alot of work on "stick" drag race cars. To me it sounds like you have a clutch that is too harsh for your engine, and it's pulling the engine down too far when you leave the line. You should not have to leave the line at a higher RPM to make the car work(within reason). You actually want to have the clutch "slip" a little to keep the rpm's up. "ideally" you want a preasure plate that you can adjust the "base" preasure to get the car to leave. I know that this all sounds kind of drag race only, but the point I am trying to make is that the clutch has everthing to do with how the car leaves the line, and believe me, there is some serious ET gained with a proper clutch. This is also why you car will not MPH in the 1/8th...the engine has tough time recovering from the RPM being pulled down when you leave the line. Just a thought...I bet your car would be faster with the stock clutch back in.
#138
Just did some re-reading and saw that you had the MS3. Dayum, that's a big *** cyclinder pressure bleeding cam on that stock engine. I'm thinking a new rear is gonna be one of my first big mods also. I want some 4.10s bad but don't want to do it twice.
#139
Ken, the 4.10s feel really good on the street and they make the big cam much more streetable, especially at parking lot speeds BUT, if you are planning on going fast, say with a bunch of nitrous or FI or something, stick with the 3.42s. I am out of steam in 4th at 120mph...can't even use my nitrous at the track unless I shift to 5th.. LOL
I haven't tried any 27-28" tires yet.
Ya the cam DEFINETLY killed some torque. Especially at part throttle, driving through town at 2k rpms and just hitting some gas, its VERY noticeable. Dyno charts don't show much loss compared to other guys with smaller cams but is definetly weaker down low. 4.10s don't make up enough for believe me.
BTW I went a 9.11@163 on the busa the other night at 62". With only a 1.70 60'. Its getting there, finally.
I haven't tried any 27-28" tires yet.
Ya the cam DEFINETLY killed some torque. Especially at part throttle, driving through town at 2k rpms and just hitting some gas, its VERY noticeable. Dyno charts don't show much loss compared to other guys with smaller cams but is definetly weaker down low. 4.10s don't make up enough for believe me.
BTW I went a 9.11@163 on the busa the other night at 62". With only a 1.70 60'. Its getting there, finally.
#140
I'll keep that in mind, Alan. I've got a friend with a Hahn kit on his. He's gonna let me ride it after he puts his third set of pistons in it. LOL I can't convince him to get it tuned with a wideband or anything!