Rim Screws on Weld Aluma-Stars?
11-11-2005, 06:17 PM
#22
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beadlock them. call Sheppard Race Cars- 770-787-9760 They'll turn them around in a week. This is what his beadlocks look like:
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07-04-2006, 08:13 PM
#23
Bringing this old thread back up for a question.
Is it necessary to beadlock both sides of each wheel or can you just do one side? I've thinking about getting my Weld Magnums beadlocked but it costs about $200-225 for each side of the wheel. Will one side of each wheel be enough?
Is it necessary to beadlock both sides of each wheel or can you just do one side? I've thinking about getting my Weld Magnums beadlocked but it costs about $200-225 for each side of the wheel. Will one side of each wheel be enough?
07-04-2006, 08:20 PM
#24
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One side is fine. At least it is for a 1500hp 3500# car. Anyone who says otherwise hasn't tried it. If it wasn't safe the guys who beadlock the wheels wouldn't do it.
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07-04-2006, 08:30 PM
#25
1500hp limit huh? Dang I guess I will need both sides done. 
J/K
Thanks for the reply Brady $500 I can swing but $1000 I could use somewhere else. Anyone have experience with Reds beadlocks http://www.redsbeadlock.com/wst_page5.php?
J/K
Thanks for the reply Brady $500 I can swing but $1000 I could use somewhere else. Anyone have experience with Reds beadlocks http://www.redsbeadlock.com/wst_page5.php?
07-04-2006, 09:50 PM
#26
The Bull
Dan Millen's car only has them bead locked on the outside and rim screwed on the inside. Just guessing, but that's a little closer to 2000+ HP. As far as even loading of the sidewall goes, no idea on what the lock on one side and screws on the other does.
07-05-2006, 05:16 AM
#27
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Call Sheppard, I'm pretty sure he gets $350 to do a pair "outside only"
770-787-9760
770-787-9760
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07-08-2006, 12:06 AM
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I think it's Moroso who makes the screw spacing gauge I used to get the holes spaced evenly when I drilled my AlumaStars. Like the others said, you drill at an angle so that the underside of the screw head hits both surfaces on the lips. It looks fine all thought the screw heads aren't polished so it stands out alittle.
07-08-2006, 07:31 AM
#31
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Originally Posted by Brady
Call Sheppard, I'm pretty sure he gets $350 to do a pair "outside only"
770-787-9760
770-787-9760
Has anyone ever had Cajun Pro Cars do a set for them? They look nice too.
07-08-2006, 08:46 AM
#32
I asked Shepard about the anno'd rings and they said all they had was polished but he could send them off to get anno'd. I'm sure it would add to the price and turnaround time.
Here is another shop that does them in colors.
http://championwheel.com/DRAG.htm
Here is another shop that does them in colors.
http://championwheel.com/DRAG.htm
Last edited by DopeFedZ; 07-08-2006 at 09:14 AM.
07-08-2006, 09:52 AM
#33
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Slightly off topic, but not enough to justify a new thread:
It appears with the beadlocks you stiffen up your sidewall as well as locking the bead to the wheel. I'm wondering if this will hurt/help my nitrous car. 3150 lbs, glide, 28x10.5W tires, probably in the 900+ rwhp range when it's all said and done...
What would you guys do? Screws or beadlocks?
Eventually I'm putting the 325 radials on the car and going local drag radial racing...most of those guys are finding success with the beadlocks in that class, but I'm not sure of what to do on the W tires I currently have on the car.
It appears with the beadlocks you stiffen up your sidewall as well as locking the bead to the wheel. I'm wondering if this will hurt/help my nitrous car. 3150 lbs, glide, 28x10.5W tires, probably in the 900+ rwhp range when it's all said and done...
What would you guys do? Screws or beadlocks?
Eventually I'm putting the 325 radials on the car and going local drag radial racing...most of those guys are finding success with the beadlocks in that class, but I'm not sure of what to do on the W tires I currently have on the car.
07-08-2006, 12:38 PM
#34
The Bull
The bead lock squares the sidewall to the track and locks the bead. Nitrous or turbo doesn't matter, it helps if you can afford them. At 900HP it's not a necessity as much as it is on other cars, but it does make the tire more consistent in it's response.
The only negative is that they add weight to the car and a pound on the wheel is equivalent to 8 pounds on the body. Harlan just got his new bead locks at the shop and it appears that Weld has redesigned their bead locks to make a significant weight reduction. We'll corner scale them to determine the difference in weight. My guess is the bead lock portion is 50% lighter on their new design.
The only negative is that they add weight to the car and a pound on the wheel is equivalent to 8 pounds on the body. Harlan just got his new bead locks at the shop and it appears that Weld has redesigned their bead locks to make a significant weight reduction. We'll corner scale them to determine the difference in weight. My guess is the bead lock portion is 50% lighter on their new design.
07-08-2006, 05:08 PM
#36
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Originally Posted by jshiver
Hey Brady...Does Sheppard do the annodized rings, or do you have to find someone else to do that?
Has anyone ever had Cajun Pro Cars do a set for them? They look nice too.
Has anyone ever had Cajun Pro Cars do a set for them? They look nice too.
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07-08-2006, 05:19 PM
#37
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Originally Posted by STOCK1090
You do not need screws or beadlocks with 1.30 60's.
DERTY - I'm thinking I'll try the beadlocks if my budget permits it.....
07-08-2006, 09:35 PM
#38
Originally Posted by DERTY
The bead lock squares the sidewall to the track and locks the bead. Nitrous or turbo doesn't matter, it helps if you can afford them. At 900HP it's not a necessity as much as it is on other cars, but it does make the tire more consistent in it's response.
The only negative is that they add weight to the car and a pound on the wheel is equivalent to 8 pounds on the body. Harlan just got his new bead locks at the shop and it appears that Weld has redesigned their bead locks to make a significant weight reduction. We'll corner scale them to determine the difference in weight. My guess is the bead lock portion is 50% lighter on their new design.
The only negative is that they add weight to the car and a pound on the wheel is equivalent to 8 pounds on the body. Harlan just got his new bead locks at the shop and it appears that Weld has redesigned their bead locks to make a significant weight reduction. We'll corner scale them to determine the difference in weight. My guess is the bead lock portion is 50% lighter on their new design.
Screw weighing them...... post up pic's... i want to see what took 4 months....
07-09-2006, 10:17 AM
#39
Fastblack,
My point exactly.
Why waste the money when I see many of the 60' times for these 8 and 9 second runs that are more like 60's for 10 and 11 second runs. Work on the sixty foots. Mark the tires and the rims and when they start to move alot
(because they will move a little) think about the screws or beadlocks.
I bet some of you have powerglides. Get a three speed and tighten up the converter. You will love it. Work on the suspensions because I am sure you are spinning. Turbo guys retard the timing on the line and fatten up the pulse width. It will make the car more raceable. Maybe you will be able to cut a light instead of waiting for the car to spool up. With all of the HP you guys say you should be going faster.
I was the crew chief for what I call ego racing. We put the first v-6 Buick in the 7's back when the Pro Stockers did not even make the 6's yet. The car sucked as a race car since the turbo was so big but it put up big numbers and made the people in the stands happy. It made 3.70 HP per cubic inch. It made the sponsor happy and could put it in all of his ads.
My guess is many of you need to try some different gear ratio combinations both in the rear and the trans. All this is costly but try out some different torque converters too.
If you want to find out what your Hp is at the drag strip try this and compare to your dyno numbers. If you are way off either your dyno is telling you lies or you need to improve your combo
(.00426 x MPH at the top of the quarter mile) take the cubed root of that number and then multiply by the weight of your car.
Example 140 MPH trap speed 3200 lb car
.00426 x 140 = .5964
cubed root of .5964 = .212135281
.212135281 x 3200lbs = 678.83 HP
My point exactly.
Why waste the money when I see many of the 60' times for these 8 and 9 second runs that are more like 60's for 10 and 11 second runs. Work on the sixty foots. Mark the tires and the rims and when they start to move alot
(because they will move a little) think about the screws or beadlocks.
I bet some of you have powerglides. Get a three speed and tighten up the converter. You will love it. Work on the suspensions because I am sure you are spinning. Turbo guys retard the timing on the line and fatten up the pulse width. It will make the car more raceable. Maybe you will be able to cut a light instead of waiting for the car to spool up. With all of the HP you guys say you should be going faster.
I was the crew chief for what I call ego racing. We put the first v-6 Buick in the 7's back when the Pro Stockers did not even make the 6's yet. The car sucked as a race car since the turbo was so big but it put up big numbers and made the people in the stands happy. It made 3.70 HP per cubic inch. It made the sponsor happy and could put it in all of his ads.
My guess is many of you need to try some different gear ratio combinations both in the rear and the trans. All this is costly but try out some different torque converters too.
If you want to find out what your Hp is at the drag strip try this and compare to your dyno numbers. If you are way off either your dyno is telling you lies or you need to improve your combo
(.00426 x MPH at the top of the quarter mile) take the cubed root of that number and then multiply by the weight of your car.
Example 140 MPH trap speed 3200 lb car
.00426 x 140 = .5964
cubed root of .5964 = .212135281
.212135281 x 3200lbs = 678.83 HP
07-09-2006, 07:01 PM
#40
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I talked to David, he's getting gold anodized rings in the next couple weeks. That's the only color though.
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