JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

World block, world c5r style heads, solid roller 450+ CI, carb intake,.. make 1000 at the tires on motor alone and go run a 8 sec. pass leaving off idle.

LS1INSIDE

347 C.i.d W/ Chingos Of Nitrous!!!!!!!!

Brady

iTrader: (3)

Turbocharged Buick stageII 231 c.i. V6, twin turbos.

JPMuscle

Blown BBC...



-john

Bryan @ Speed Inc.

iTrader: (19)

if you do it again i'll buy your iron block 421!!! (ohhhhh baabbby)

Bryan @ Speed Inc.

iTrader: (19)

well... a good value'd/performing motor would be an iron 402/408 - very strong, very durable.... and relatively inexpensive. and if you decide to put the spray or boost to it, it will hold a lot of adder!

if you know you'll always be n/a then i'd say build a 402 ls2 or a 6.2 stroker when they come out.

The Juggernaut

iTrader: (7)

Stock 4.3 Vortec

Bryan @ Speed Inc.

iTrader: (19)

what a dick!

Slow Z28

iTrader: (19)

turbo 4.2L I6 from a Trailblazer

you know, what was that guy's name, Jim Henninger, that used to race NMCA that had a 4.3L v6 that was sprayed? forgot exactly what it was

slow trap

iTrader: (22)

go way old school with an inline 6. j/k .i'd say 434 sbc with 14.5-15.5 c/r,28x,29x duration with .800+ lift and 18* or sb2 heads.a few custom parts required for 18 * or sb2 stuff but great hp numbers.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I still say tall deck world block and heads, could easily make 1000 hp with that on a all out race setup... and would be capable of running 8 sec. passes, leaving the line from idle. How may people could say they can do that?

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

Well guys, here is where things stand. I'm keepin' my fingers crossed that my father will help out, since this is our race car. I'd like a set of ET Performance heads. As far as what I want to do with the block, I'm unsure of. Not sure if we wanna go all bore, all stroke, both, and how much. Not sure if we wanna stick with LS1 or move over to LS2. If I had the choice, I'd build the biggest LS1 possible, but its not gonna happen as we don't have that kind of budget to spend. I'd like to stay aluminum block. What do ya'll think of a solid roller heads/cam setup with stockish cubes and strong bottom end? Just wanting an opinion, not saying that's what I'll be doing. I'd like to build a motor that has lots of bang for the buck. I'm sure my car could go 9s with good weather, good track prep, and a nice set of heads and different cam as my cam only motor went 10.30s with decent weather. Anyhow, if anyone has any other suggestions, please feel free. Hopefully I've narrowed my options a little more.

Again, for those who missed it, I want to stay LS1/LS2. Thanks.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

If your block is still good for a core.. then go all bore, stroker setup's don't make **** for power in comparison, plus you can utilize teh big valved head too. A solid roller 382 setup with the new splayed valve ET head would be plenty of power to run in the 9's. Just be ready to dry sump it.. as it will wanna spin well into the 8000 rpm range.

Or,an ls2 402, with the same heads on it would probably be more then capable of the power you wanan make, go solid roller and it would be no problem as well.. the ls2 402 route might even be cheaper then the resleeved ls1 block too.

LASTLS1

iTrader: (7)

I know of a good LME 408 for sale!

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

My block has 2 holes in it. If its no usuable, I doubt it will pass for a core. I'm gonna have to buy a new block, just can't decide if I should buy a LS1/LS6 or a LS2. What do you mean by utilize the big valve head? What's the new splayed valve ET head? Why would I need to dry sump it? Not doubting you, just wondering.

Does the LS2 have a bigger bore than thet LS1? I wouldn't need to resleeve a LS1 for a bigger bore would I? Also, how much would I bore for either block?

Thanks!

Loudmouth LS1

iTrader: (10)

LS2 has a 4 inch bore compared too the LS1's 3.90, the aluminum blocks cannot be bored unless you sleeve them which gets costly. That's why the ls2's are killer, they got a 4 inch bore, so you throw a 4 inch crank in and you have a squared up motor that makes 402 cubes and runs like a ************!

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

There's the exp. on the block deal.. if yours has hole(s) then it's toast.

The new ET head, search on that.. looking like 400 cfm plus is gonna happen from that no problem... that head would easily make 9 second power, as long as you have the cubes and compression to use it (400 CI min, probably best to run 13.5 to 1 or more to really utilize the flow #'s.. or go 500 CI)

As for the dry sump and solid roller, it depends on how high you wanna spin it. You wanan go over 7500.. then solid roller is probably a good idea... and dry sumping is too at that point.

hyd. stuff is good to 7000, 7400 if you know your stuff is set up right.. anythign more then that is solid roller area. As for the dry sump, that's needed to keep the foaming oil issue away, and I'm guessing that becomes an issue in applications seeing alot of use above 7500 rpm. New z06, with a 7000 redline, got a dry sump because GM saw oiling issues... so I'd figure off that.


But, the new world block, with the priority oiling for the mains, pretty eliminates the need for dry sumping. The block is over twivce the cost of a ls2 block, but add a dry sump setup to a ls2, and the complexity of it.. and you might find that the added block cost with the world block is negated.

Personally.. I'd go with the world, simply because you can build BIG cubes in it no problem, and the prioroty oiling for the mains... something that every motor should have.