White2000TA

iTrader: (1)

Was wondering if any of you had pics with a kill switch installed? I did a search and have seen many pics with the battery reloc in the tire well, but havent seen any kill switch installs.

I think im looking for the flaming river setup, but im a bit unclear if you need the magneto. Anyone know the part numbers we need for our cars?

Fireball

iTrader: (21)

I have the moroso with the push/pull kit (pretty much the same as the flaming river)

White2000TA

iTrader: (1)

Cool. Thanks. Will this kit do the trick?

http://www.flamingriver.com/index.cf...prod/prd62.htm

wasnt sure if we needed this:

http://www.flamingriver.com/index.cf...prod/prd61.htm


sorry about the direct link to flaming river. If we have a sponsor that sells this let me know. I need to buy today!!!!

Fireball

iTrader: (21)

get the first one.

you'll need to run a hot wire back from the alternator too (to kill all power). run that wire on the battery side of the switch.

LETZ RUN

iTrader: (11)

rocketman442

iTrader: (8)

LETZ RUN, go any inside pics of that setup?

LETZ RUN

iTrader: (11)

i can take some.. its firebladews6's car. ill get some tomorrow night

rocketman442

iTrader: (8)

Cool, I'm gonna need a kill switch soon

NA$TY-TA

iTrader: (21)

Here's mine.... Flaming river setup...





There a lil big...
Kyle

rocketman442

iTrader: (8)

LETZ RUN, you ever get that pic?

White2000TA

iTrader: (1)

Cool. If we use an optima battery do you need it in a box or is it consider a sealed battery?

monsterls1

iTrader: (8)

Here is my set up. Flaming river push/pull. Mounted behind the bumper, I thread the handle through at the track.

damon_Z

Sorry to hijack the thread.

Where did you get the push off sticker and do you have any problems with water getting through the kill switch hole? Thanks in advance for the info.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Is there a rule saying that you have to have a kill switch like this on a car that doesn't have the battery relocated to the trunk? I'm looking into doing a LW battery, like a PC680 and mounting it in the stock location. My thinking is that the weight saved by going to that battery will be enough to have the same effect as relocating to the trunk, and will save more weight overall because there will be no need to run any huge wire to the trunk and back up th the front, etc.etc. Just seems like an easier way to get teh weight out in the front without adding anymore stuff to worry about. Plus, I have read that if you do relocate the battery to the trunk, there's no running a LW battery because of the wire lenth and the car having a hard time starting, so relocating to the trunk, unless you need the room for turbo ( kyle's monster ) or something else is only good for moving weight, not decreasing any.... as the whole relocation process actually adds weight to the car.

kp

iTrader: (34)

If you go faster then 10.00/135mph you need an on off switch. I tried several different ways of using the kill switch while leaving the small battery up front and none worked well. Put 25 feet of 1 gauge welding cable on it and the voltage drop while cranking is like 3.5 volts. Then I tried just switching the main power feed off the batery and leaving the starter and alt hooked direct to the battery and that worked OK but I lost about 1 volt to the fuel pumps. I havent 100% finished the rear install yet and I may just do the last method with the small battery and hook the fuel pump relays straight up to the alternator.

Honestly running big cables all over and putting a 40lb battery in the interior of the car makes for a lot of bad things to happen in a crash. I also think just about every car I seen burn down on the starting from an electrical fire had something to do with battery relocation. NHRA is like 20 years behind the times on this, bolting a battery box in the t-top well isnt legal either, its supposed to go through the frame and not a sheetmetal floor. I think a small battery up front is 100x safer and all you should need is a swich to cut the PCM/fuel pumps if you leave the battery up front since the chance of something shorting out is way less then running TWO big cables back there (through the interior on top of it) if you have an alternator.

FWIW my lightweight batery and mount is 15lbs, the kill switch, cables (1ga for power, 4ga for alternator), box, hardware, extra 1/8 plate for floor pan reinforcement and optima battery totals 65lbs. Thats not just relocating thats ADDING 50lbs

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Exactly why I don't want to relocate the battery... the 50 lbs of **** that is needed to do it. I wonder if a switch could be wired in the back that would just operate a high amperage relay that would cut the power to teh entire car.. except the switch and relay, both of which would have to be hardwired to the battery ( fused of course ). This would probably meet the requirment yes?

Fireball

iTrader: (21)

Local graphics shop made it for me.

Car isn't street driven anymore so I don't know about water issues.

kp

iTrader: (34)

I thought of doing a high current relay but the only problem with them is you have a bad short they may weld themselves 'on.' I probably could have got away with the switch hooked up to nothing, havent seen anyone check one in a long time..

Not only do you get add 50lbs but you get to spend around $400.00 doing so lol. 130.00 for the box/cable, 130.00 for an optima red top, switch+lever kit 90.00, misc heat shrink, terminal ends, 15' of #4 welding cable for the alternator and a 100amp fuse for the alt wire is another 70.00.

Here are the pics of mine I just finished, third pic is some 2" x 1/8" plate which will help keep the studs from pulling through the floor. After thinking about it I'll probably switch to a plastic vented box just in case the battery comes loose I dont want it shorting on the aluminum box..

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

The added cost is another headache I don't want either at this point.

Your setup looks lice, I like it...... but I'll be sticking a PC680 batt on the factory tray and calling it a day.. if someday I go fast enough and someone says something, I"ll worry about it then. I'll most likly attempt teh high current relay wired in the positive side of the battery with a switch to control it, and just hook the wires that run the relay strait to the battery... just have to make sure that's not left on or thecar will be dead every time I go to start it I'm sure. But, the voltage drop and all that should be non existant for the most part, allowing the little battery to be used.. keeping the weight reduction.

You were saying you are having a hard time with weight from the cage.. maybe something you may want to try, a pc 680 bat in the factory location and a good relay to control it... probably lose alot of weight that way.

kp

iTrader: (34)

Problem is that solenoid will drain that PC680 pretty quick, its bad enough at the track if you have to move the car three or four times in the staging lanes without having to wory about shutting the car off all the time. No perfect way to do it I found so I guess I'll just suck it up and take the 50lb hit