Battery Relocation
Battery Relocation Was wondering if any of you had pics with a kill switch installed? I did a search and have seen many pics with the battery reloc in the tire well, but havent seen any kill switch installs.
I think im looking for the flaming river setup, but im a bit unclear if you need the magneto. Anyone know the part numbers we need for our cars?
I think im looking for the flaming river setup, but im a bit unclear if you need the magneto. Anyone know the part numbers we need for our cars?
Cool. Thanks. Will this kit do the trick?
http://www.flamingriver.com/index.cf...prod/prd62.htm
wasnt sure if we needed this:
http://www.flamingriver.com/index.cf...prod/prd61.htm
sorry about the direct link to flaming river. If we have a sponsor that sells this let me know. I need to buy today!!!!
http://www.flamingriver.com/index.cf...prod/prd62.htm
wasnt sure if we needed this:
http://www.flamingriver.com/index.cf...prod/prd61.htm
sorry about the direct link to flaming river. If we have a sponsor that sells this let me know. I need to buy today!!!!
Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
Originally Posted by Fireball
get the first one.
you'll need to run a hot wire back from the alternator too (to kill all power). run that wire on the battery side of the switch.
you'll need to run a hot wire back from the alternator too (to kill all power). run that wire on the battery side of the switch.
TECH Resident
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 896
Likes: 0
From: Picatinny Arsenal, NJ
Originally Posted by Fireball
I have the moroso with the push/pull kit (pretty much the same as the flaming river)
Where did you get the push off sticker and do you have any problems with water getting through the kill switch hole? Thanks in advance for the info.
Is there a rule saying that you have to have a kill switch like this on a car that doesn't have the battery relocated to the trunk? I'm looking into doing a LW battery, like a PC680 and mounting it in the stock location. My thinking is that the weight saved by going to that battery will be enough to have the same effect as relocating to the trunk, and will save more weight overall because there will be no need to run any huge wire to the trunk and back up th the front, etc.etc. Just seems like an easier way to get teh weight out in the front without adding anymore stuff to worry about. Plus, I have read that if you do relocate the battery to the trunk, there's no running a LW battery because of the wire lenth and the car having a hard time starting, so relocating to the trunk, unless you need the room for turbo ( kyle's monster ) or something else is only good for moving weight, not decreasing any.... as the whole relocation process actually adds weight to the car.
If you go faster then 10.00/135mph you need an on off switch. I tried several different ways of using the kill switch while leaving the small battery up front and none worked well. Put 25 feet of 1 gauge welding cable on it and the voltage drop while cranking is like 3.5 volts. Then I tried just switching the main power feed off the batery and leaving the starter and alt hooked direct to the battery and that worked OK but I lost about 1 volt to the fuel pumps. I havent 100% finished the rear install yet and I may just do the last method with the small battery and hook the fuel pump relays straight up to the alternator.
Honestly running big cables all over and putting a 40lb battery in the interior of the car makes for a lot of bad things to happen in a crash. I also think just about every car I seen burn down on the starting from an electrical fire had something to do with battery relocation. NHRA is like 20 years behind the times on this, bolting a battery box in the t-top well isnt legal either, its supposed to go through the frame and not a sheetmetal floor. I think a small battery up front is 100x safer and all you should need is a swich to cut the PCM/fuel pumps if you leave the battery up front since the chance of something shorting out is way less then running TWO big cables back there (through the interior on top of it) if you have an alternator.
FWIW my lightweight batery and mount is 15lbs, the kill switch, cables (1ga for power, 4ga for alternator), box, hardware, extra 1/8 plate for floor pan reinforcement and optima battery totals 65lbs. Thats not just relocating thats ADDING 50lbs
Honestly running big cables all over and putting a 40lb battery in the interior of the car makes for a lot of bad things to happen in a crash. I also think just about every car I seen burn down on the starting from an electrical fire had something to do with battery relocation. NHRA is like 20 years behind the times on this, bolting a battery box in the t-top well isnt legal either, its supposed to go through the frame and not a sheetmetal floor. I think a small battery up front is 100x safer and all you should need is a swich to cut the PCM/fuel pumps if you leave the battery up front since the chance of something shorting out is way less then running TWO big cables back there (through the interior on top of it) if you have an alternator.
FWIW my lightweight batery and mount is 15lbs, the kill switch, cables (1ga for power, 4ga for alternator), box, hardware, extra 1/8 plate for floor pan reinforcement and optima battery totals 65lbs. Thats not just relocating thats ADDING 50lbs
Exactly why I don't want to relocate the battery... the 50 lbs of **** that is needed to do it. I wonder if a switch could be wired in the back that would just operate a high amperage relay that would cut the power to teh entire car.. except the switch and relay, both of which would have to be hardwired to the battery ( fused of course ). This would probably meet the requirment yes?
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 8,484
Likes: 0
From: Cecil County Raceway!!!
Originally Posted by damon_Z
Sorry to hijack the thread.
Where did you get the push off sticker and do you have any problems with water getting through the kill switch hole? Thanks in advance for the info.
Where did you get the push off sticker and do you have any problems with water getting through the kill switch hole? Thanks in advance for the info.
Car isn't street driven anymore so I don't know about water issues.
Originally Posted by JL ws-6
Exactly why I don't want to relocate the battery... the 50 lbs of **** that is needed to do it. I wonder if a switch could be wired in the back that would just operate a high amperage relay that would cut the power to teh entire car.. except the switch and relay, both of which would have to be hardwired to the battery ( fused of course ). This would probably meet the requirment yes?
Not only do you get add 50lbs but you get to spend around $400.00 doing so lol. 130.00 for the box/cable, 130.00 for an optima red top, switch+lever kit 90.00, misc heat shrink, terminal ends, 15' of #4 welding cable for the alternator and a 100amp fuse for the alt wire is another 70.00.
Here are the pics of mine I just finished, third pic is some 2" x 1/8" plate which will help keep the studs from pulling through the floor. After thinking about it I'll probably switch to a plastic vented box just in case the battery comes loose I dont want it shorting on the aluminum box..
The added cost is another headache I don't want either at this point.
Your setup looks lice, I like it...... but I'll be sticking a PC680 batt on the factory tray and calling it a day.. if someday I go fast enough and someone says something, I"ll worry about it then. I'll most likly attempt teh high current relay wired in the positive side of the battery with a switch to control it, and just hook the wires that run the relay strait to the battery... just have to make sure that's not left on or thecar will be dead every time I go to start it I'm sure. But, the voltage drop and all that should be non existant for the most part, allowing the little battery to be used.. keeping the weight reduction.
You were saying you are having a hard time with weight from the cage.. maybe something you may want to try, a pc 680 bat in the factory location and a good relay to control it... probably lose alot of weight that way.
Your setup looks lice, I like it...... but I'll be sticking a PC680 batt on the factory tray and calling it a day.. if someday I go fast enough and someone says something, I"ll worry about it then. I'll most likly attempt teh high current relay wired in the positive side of the battery with a switch to control it, and just hook the wires that run the relay strait to the battery... just have to make sure that's not left on or thecar will be dead every time I go to start it I'm sure. But, the voltage drop and all that should be non existant for the most part, allowing the little battery to be used.. keeping the weight reduction.
You were saying you are having a hard time with weight from the cage.. maybe something you may want to try, a pc 680 bat in the factory location and a good relay to control it... probably lose alot of weight that way.
Problem is that solenoid will drain that PC680 pretty quick, its bad enough at the track if you have to move the car three or four times in the staging lanes without having to wory about shutting the car off all the time. No perfect way to do it I found so I guess I'll just suck it up and take the 50lb hit 