Rate my suspension setup..PLEASE!
05-10-2006, 02:05 PM
#1
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Rate my suspension setup..PLEASE! How do you feel about this setup getting me down the track...hooked up off the line?
I have BMR:
LCA's w/weld in relocation brackets
Adj. panhard rod
welded tubular subframes
Spohn tunnel mounted TA with front loop
12 way Hals on all 4 corners w/Hal front drag springs..and stock rear springs
(they are set at 2 up front...and 6 in the rear)
also..Moser 12 bolt 33 spline axles w/4.11's
What do you think?
Mike
I have BMR:
LCA's w/weld in relocation brackets
Adj. panhard rod
welded tubular subframes
Spohn tunnel mounted TA with front loop
12 way Hals on all 4 corners w/Hal front drag springs..and stock rear springs
(they are set at 2 up front...and 6 in the rear)
also..Moser 12 bolt 33 spline axles w/4.11's
What do you think?
Mike
05-10-2006, 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by MADMAN
Sounds like a nice setup. It should hook well.
I have a M6 too..
05-10-2006, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Tru2Chevy
Which LCAs do you have?
A sway bar would be a good idea if you find that the car isn't leaving as cleanly as you would like it to.
- Justin
A sway bar would be a good idea if you find that the car isn't leaving as cleanly as you would like it to.
- Justin
What sway bar/drag bar do you guys recommend. The car mostly sits in the garage, but will see the track more often now that I am finally getting it finished up. 10-20% on the strip and the rest on the street.
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05-11-2006, 01:13 PM
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Do you think that I messed up not doing chromemoly pieces. Also, did I mess up not getting adj. LCA's??
What is a good anti roll/drag bar that wont make the car a bucket of **** on the street. The car is driven on the street more than it is at the strip...but I want it to hook.
What is a good anti roll/drag bar that wont make the car a bucket of **** on the street. The car is driven on the street more than it is at the strip...but I want it to hook.
05-11-2006, 02:36 PM
#10
The +1" rear bars seem to work well. I know BMR has the extreme duty rear sway bar that works in the OEM location. The adjustable LCAs are not a big concern for street cars, but for track only car they can be beneficial to tuning the suspension. Your selected parts will do great.
05-12-2006, 09:24 AM
#13
I wouldn't run the wolfe on the street. I have it on my car. With the stock gas tank. 
"if it were me", on a street car, I'd weld the swaybar mounts to the rear axle tubes, and just use poly bushings & endlinks with the stock swaybar. On my car, the muffler clamp swaybar mounts twisted around the axle. Weld on a pair of real mounts and you should be good to go. You should be able to either make them, or maybe Strange will sell them to you (they have welded-on mounts on their new Dana 60 rear ends).
"if it were me", on a street car, I'd weld the swaybar mounts to the rear axle tubes, and just use poly bushings & endlinks with the stock swaybar. On my car, the muffler clamp swaybar mounts twisted around the axle. Weld on a pair of real mounts and you should be good to go. You should be able to either make them, or maybe Strange will sell them to you (they have welded-on mounts on their new Dana 60 rear ends).
05-12-2006, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Camaroholic
I wouldn't run the wolfe on the street. I have it on my car. With the stock gas tank.
Did you mount it to the frame rails below the tank? How do you plan on removing the tank now that the sway bar is welded in?
05-12-2006, 10:06 AM
#15
Well, as you can see in this picture here, the Wolfe drag race swaybar doesn't come anywhere near the gas tank. The tabs weld to a plate that's welded to the rear frame rail, in front of the rear end. The ends of the bar face forward. There's no interference at all with the gas tank. Not even close.
To remove the tank is (well, I shouldn't use this word, because we all know it's a PITA) simple.
Just undo the screw on the endlink on the framerail, and the rear end drops out. 
To remove the tank is (well, I shouldn't use this word, because we all know it's a PITA) simple.
Just undo the screw on the endlink on the framerail, and the rear end drops out. 
05-12-2006, 11:25 AM
#19
I consistently cut 1.4's with the non adjustable tubular control arms, Hals, adjustable panhard bar, stock swaybar and a "right rear airbag". When it won't go straight I just add a few psi to the airbag and straight it goes. I also have the Stealth torque arm and BMR k member.
I don't know how much power you make bu tif you're lookin' to do another upgrade why not start with a nice CHEAP airbag first?
I don't know how much power you make bu tif you're lookin' to do another upgrade why not start with a nice CHEAP airbag first?
