What do I need?
05-12-2006, 10:35 AM
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What do I need? Im in the midst of building my drag toy...
The car is basically described in the sig, but here's the rest:
Were expecting 650+ to the wheels when all done and tuned...
I already have, BMR boxed SFC's, tubular non-adj LCA's, Trak Pak torque arm, and right-rear air bag.
What else am I going to need suspension wise as a minimum to make this thing hook?
Im planning to get either a 9" or Dana 60 with 3.73's...
And also planning to get some Weld Prostars all around w/slicks and skinny front runners. Just not sure what tire/wheel size combo I will need.
Open to all experiences/suggestions. I want to get the best ET I can with the given HP level.
As of now, the car is stock weight. But the ABS/TCS, A/C, and seats will be going soon. Plus we will be doing a wolfe mild-steel weld in 6pt bar, harnesses, and non-adj. racing seats up front.
Thanks in advance
The car is basically described in the sig, but here's the rest:
Were expecting 650+ to the wheels when all done and tuned...
I already have, BMR boxed SFC's, tubular non-adj LCA's, Trak Pak torque arm, and right-rear air bag.
What else am I going to need suspension wise as a minimum to make this thing hook?
Im planning to get either a 9" or Dana 60 with 3.73's...
And also planning to get some Weld Prostars all around w/slicks and skinny front runners. Just not sure what tire/wheel size combo I will need.
Open to all experiences/suggestions. I want to get the best ET I can with the given HP level.
As of now, the car is stock weight. But the ABS/TCS, A/C, and seats will be going soon. Plus we will be doing a wolfe mild-steel weld in 6pt bar, harnesses, and non-adj. racing seats up front.
Thanks in advance
05-12-2006, 10:53 AM
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As for the wheels, Ive been leaning towards 15X8 ProStars with 5.5" B.S. and 28X9.O-15 M/T on the rear. With 15X5's up front with the New M/T radial front runners, just not sure of the Backspacing needed on those.
Other than grinding the rear calipers, is there anything else I will need to do in order to make the front and rear wheels fit?
Other than grinding the rear calipers, is there anything else I will need to do in order to make the front and rear wheels fit?
05-12-2006, 11:04 AM
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I would run a Anti-roll rear sway bar for sure as well as fully adjustable shocks all the way around. I would ditch the non adjustable rear control arms and get some adjustable ones. I would also buy a 15x10in wheel and run 28x10.5 M/Ts.. Might also want to invest in some lca relocation brackets..
05-12-2006, 11:13 AM
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Almost forgot about the reloc brackets, I do have them. Just waiting on the new rear to weld them in.
1QuickT-A,
Whats needed to run those 28-10.5's and 15X10's? As far as clearancing etc. And what B.s.?
Tony,
Its not running at the moment, I have to replace the timing cover. Harold bored the crank seal hole out for my bigger seal, but it was too big of a diameter and the seal walked out of the cover on me. Im not sure if Harold has shipped the new one yet or not. Wanna bug him for me?
Before that happened, it was running great. Cant wait to finish break-in and raise the boost to see what we can get.
1QuickT-A,
Whats needed to run those 28-10.5's and 15X10's? As far as clearancing etc. And what B.s.?
Tony,
Its not running at the moment, I have to replace the timing cover. Harold bored the crank seal hole out for my bigger seal, but it was too big of a diameter and the seal walked out of the cover on me. Im not sure if Harold has shipped the new one yet or not. Wanna bug him for me?
Before that happened, it was running great. Cant wait to finish break-in and raise the boost to see what we can get.
05-12-2006, 12:47 PM
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Alright, Ive done a little searching and found that the 15X10's need a 7.5" BS... Along with the BFH mod.... Would the fender lips also need to be rolled?
How noisy is that Wolfe sway bar? What about driveability for the street? This car will be street driven on weekend cruises and to/from work (5mi round trip).
Im def gonna be getting some QA1 shocks all the way around, going to be the 12ways so I can be comfy on the street, and launch at the track. Since I'll be doing those, I might as well get matching springs for the front.
Ive seen several kits to do actual coil-overs on the rear... Is that neccessary? If not, does QA1 sell springs that can be used in place of the stock rears? Or would it just be cheaper to do a coil-over setup all the way around to make it easier(cheaper?) to run matching QA1 springs in the rear?
My cars not going to be lowered, so are the adjustable LCA's going to be neccessary with 15X10's and 28-10.50 M/T's? If so, anyone interested in a brand new (installed but only driven like 200mi) BMR non-adj LCA's?
Tony,
What are you getting at with scaling the car? You mean entire car weight or front-rear distribution...
Sorry So many questions guys, but Im def a newb to making a high powered car hook. And I'd rather do it right the first time than do it wrong and have to change things around.
How noisy is that Wolfe sway bar? What about driveability for the street? This car will be street driven on weekend cruises and to/from work (5mi round trip).
Im def gonna be getting some QA1 shocks all the way around, going to be the 12ways so I can be comfy on the street, and launch at the track. Since I'll be doing those, I might as well get matching springs for the front.
Ive seen several kits to do actual coil-overs on the rear... Is that neccessary? If not, does QA1 sell springs that can be used in place of the stock rears? Or would it just be cheaper to do a coil-over setup all the way around to make it easier(cheaper?) to run matching QA1 springs in the rear?
My cars not going to be lowered, so are the adjustable LCA's going to be neccessary with 15X10's and 28-10.50 M/T's? If so, anyone interested in a brand new (installed but only driven like 200mi) BMR non-adj LCA's?
Tony,
What are you getting at with scaling the car? You mean entire car weight or front-rear distribution...
Sorry So many questions guys, but Im def a newb to making a high powered car hook. And I'd rather do it right the first time than do it wrong and have to change things around.
Last edited by Fire67; 05-15-2006 at 08:53 AM.
05-12-2006, 09:27 PM
#7
Why did you go with a larger diameter hub? That can cause problems like the seal fitament....etc.
Putting the car on 4-corner scales allows you to preload the weight on the right rear tire(typically preload more than the left rear tire) and set up car correctly for optimal performance. You might look into the BMR Drag race sway bar for street/strip driving.
Picking the correct gear ratio is key as well.
Putting the car on 4-corner scales allows you to preload the weight on the right rear tire(typically preload more than the left rear tire) and set up car correctly for optimal performance. You might look into the BMR Drag race sway bar for street/strip driving.
Picking the correct gear ratio is key as well.
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05-15-2006, 08:53 AM
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I had him set me up with the larger diameter hub for extra strength with the blower. Ive seen several Eagle cranks that had the snout shear off from the stresses of the Procharger when pulleyed up for higher boost. So this large diameter is providing more metal to that area to hopefully prevent such a thing from happening. I got the timing cover Friday afternoon, and Im now just waiting on my ABS delete/TCS delete/LL kit from SJM manufacturing so I can put it all back together.
So were talking putting the car on four corner scales to help dial in weight distribution so we can get a little more weight on the right rear than the left rear. Sounds like were getting at a battery relocation setup to get some weight moved back there.
I think the BMR Xtreme duty setup is gonna be the way for me to go, cause Im sure it would be quieter than that Wolfe bar.
Any opinions on 12-bolt vs 9" vs 60 rear ends behind a M6 with a grabby @ss clutch?
Ive been told by some that a 12-bolt wont last as long behind the manual trans cars, and then there's the guys that argue about the 9" taking too much power to drive. However, Ive heard nothing about the Dana 60's.
So were talking putting the car on four corner scales to help dial in weight distribution so we can get a little more weight on the right rear than the left rear. Sounds like were getting at a battery relocation setup to get some weight moved back there.
I think the BMR Xtreme duty setup is gonna be the way for me to go, cause Im sure it would be quieter than that Wolfe bar.
Any opinions on 12-bolt vs 9" vs 60 rear ends behind a M6 with a grabby @ss clutch?
Ive been told by some that a 12-bolt wont last as long behind the manual trans cars, and then there's the guys that argue about the 9" taking too much power to drive. However, Ive heard nothing about the Dana 60's.
05-16-2006, 11:38 AM
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TTT for my last posts last question;
Alright, Ive been doing alot of searching and think I have a decent setup figured out. Mostly. Here's my list of items to add to what I already have:
Are the stock rear springs good, as far as spring rate? Or if Im going to need smaller diameter springs, should I just go with the Wolfe adapter/adjuster and a QA1 spring?
The wolfe single swaybar is appealing because of the price tag, but the BMR is still appealing due to the poly mounts... Cant decide whether I can live with the noise for the money saved or be willing to pay extra for some quietness.
Alright, Ive been doing alot of searching and think I have a decent setup figured out. Mostly. Here's my list of items to add to what I already have:
- Weld Pro Stars - 15x10 w/ 7.5" b.s. for the rear
- Weld Pro Star 15x5 - ??b.s. for the front
- M/T 28 x 10.5 - 15w's for rear runners
- M/T sportsman front runners
- 9" Ford rear - stock length
- BMR Xtreme duty or Wolfe single sway bar - not sure which yet
- QA1 F-series shocks 4 corners, 275lb front springs, ???lb rear springs or stock?
- Ditching the Air Bag
- Battery Relocation
Are the stock rear springs good, as far as spring rate? Or if Im going to need smaller diameter springs, should I just go with the Wolfe adapter/adjuster and a QA1 spring?
The wolfe single swaybar is appealing because of the price tag, but the BMR is still appealing due to the poly mounts... Cant decide whether I can live with the noise for the money saved or be willing to pay extra for some quietness.
