Villain281H

iTrader: (5)

Wow, really? Guess my redtop and 100 amp works well as I never have to charge between rounds, but I'm also not running as much electric draw as an EFI-d car. Although the electric fuel pump, water pump, and black magic fan take a good chunk.

Derek

kp

iTrader: (34)

Drawing 92 amps here with everything going (except lights) on the starting line, 100 amp alternator will maybe put out 90 amps in ideal conditions, not to mention around 24' of cable before the power from the alternator gets to the acessories. So no matter what you are always drawing from the battery, then go ahead and leave 40 amps of fan/water pump on for ten minutes and start the car three or four times to move it up in the staging lanes and go 5-6 rounds in a few hours- thats pretty rough on a battery

The 140 amp alternator was done so it puts out full output at 900rpm, thats great and all but its probably costing me 20hp to turn the thing lol.

Villain281H

iTrader: (5)

Yep no doubt! I'm not sure I want to add mine up either, but I'm thankful it turns over after hotlapping late in bracket racing. I've made runs within 6-7 minutes at times.

Derek

speedo

iTrader: (15)

Do you feel with the the extra wire to the battery in back that it takes more to charge it? What do you go with 1 or 2 gauge?

I am up in the air about putting it to the back. I would like to get the weight off the front end but I don't like the idea of all the extra weight I would gain in doing it ....wire, box...etc. Plus I only race on the track maybe 3 times a year.

Plus if I understand right I would have to find a spot for the kill switch in the rear of the car no matter what time I ran to be track legal? Where are people putting it?

I would have searched all this but I keep getting a "request timeout" page when I do a search.

Speed Density

iTrader: (38)

Most people put the kill switch right by the badges.

I am also up in the air about it, dont know if i want some punk messing with my swithc.


Tony.

Villain281H

iTrader: (5)

I've seen people put the kill switch (turn style) in the license plate location.

Derek

kp

iTrader: (34)

If you relocate the battery you need the kill switch. I have the rod/lever type. It takes less then a minute to unscrew the rod from the switch and all thats there is a 3/8 hole that you can hardly notice. Keeps the kids from turning your power off at stop lights lol.

I am using 1ga welding cable and 2ga to the alternator with a 150 amp fuse for the alternator in the back. I picked up at least 60lbs over the small battery in front by doing it. Thats a good chunk of weight when the small battery up front was 15lbs for the mount and battery..