List of NHRA Legal Batteries?
#1
List of NHRA Legal Batteries?
Just looking into doing the Batt. Relo. And am wondering what is considered NHRA legal.
From what i know its just a simple dry cell battery. But im not sure what or were to pick one up.
How about an Optima 6pack?
And does the battery have to be fully boxed?
Tony.
From what i know its just a simple dry cell battery. But im not sure what or were to pick one up.
How about an Optima 6pack?
And does the battery have to be fully boxed?
Tony.
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Originally Posted by MADMAN
Any battery is legal. It has to be in a box or mounted outside the passenger compartment.
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I've used an Optima red top for 3 years and never had a problem with it. It's in my Nova, has been relocated to the trunk and has a 100 amp 1-wire alternator in circuit running an electric water pump, fuel pump and black magic fan among the other electrical draws...
Derek
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I agree with MadMan.. i have a red top in the trunk enclosed and i am always keeping it on the charger to maintain it.. the car is pretty much strip only, when i drove it more on the street i never noticed any problems..
#11
You don't need to relocate the battery to the back, it is not an NHRA requirement. It is just a weight level technique. Although you are required to have a kill switch at the back for safety once you exceed either 9.99 or something (can't recall) or the battery is relocated.
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Originally Posted by 12secSS
You don't need to relocate the battery to the back, it is not an NHRA requirement. It is just a weight level technique. Although you are required to have a kill switch at the back for safety once you exceed either 9.99 or something (can't recall) or the battery is relocated.
Derek
#14
Originally Posted by Villain281H
George nailed it. Battery relocation is never required at any et above 7.50 (1/4 mile), but when relocated there needs to be a battery cutoff at the rear of the car. If the car runs 9.99 or 125 mph or quicker, it also must have a battery cutoff in the back, regardless of if the battery is relocated or not.
Derek
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When they test your car for an NHRA cert, do they just flip the switch or do they actually trace all the wires as well?
I feel a lot safer with the battery in the front outside of the passenger area.. without large welding cables running through the length of my chassis.
Could I just switch all the main relays from the back?
I feel a lot safer with the battery in the front outside of the passenger area.. without large welding cables running through the length of my chassis.
Could I just switch all the main relays from the back?
#17
Keith, they ask you to rev the car up to 3000 RPMs, then they kill the switch. Reason for this is because some alternators start to charge at above a certain RPM, and by 3000 most (if not all) are charging. If the alt curcuit is not in the kill cuircuit, it will allow the engine to stay running. You need to be able to kill the charging system as well with the kill switch. Yes, you can switch your relays from the back if you need to. Good luck!
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Originally Posted by Villain281H
Um, one free
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I was just going to run the orange wire off the ignition switch to the kill switch and leave the battery up front but I'm stupid.
Honestly moving the battery to the rear is one of the dumber things I have done with this car. I never had a problem with anything with a PC680 up front and now I have a 140a alternator, 60lbs of cable/box and battery added and have to charge the battery between rounds. Also have a 50lb aluminum projectile held in the back with 3/8 all thread and have two huge cables running the length of the car that would pretty much be an instant fire if they shorted out. All that instead of a little 15lb battery in the front that can never get to me lol.
Honestly moving the battery to the rear is one of the dumber things I have done with this car. I never had a problem with anything with a PC680 up front and now I have a 140a alternator, 60lbs of cable/box and battery added and have to charge the battery between rounds. Also have a 50lb aluminum projectile held in the back with 3/8 all thread and have two huge cables running the length of the car that would pretty much be an instant fire if they shorted out. All that instead of a little 15lb battery in the front that can never get to me lol.
#20
Originally Posted by kp
I was just going to run the orange wire off the ignition switch to the kill switch and leave the battery up front but I'm stupid.
Honestly moving the battery to the rear is one of the dumber things I have done with this car. I never had a problem with anything with a PC680 up front and now I have a 140a alternator, 60lbs of cable/box and battery added and have to charge the battery between rounds. Also have a 50lb aluminum projectile held in the back with 3/8 all thread and have two huge cables running the length of the car that would pretty much be an instant fire if they shorted out. All that instead of a little 15lb battery in the front that can never get to me lol.
Honestly moving the battery to the rear is one of the dumber things I have done with this car. I never had a problem with anything with a PC680 up front and now I have a 140a alternator, 60lbs of cable/box and battery added and have to charge the battery between rounds. Also have a 50lb aluminum projectile held in the back with 3/8 all thread and have two huge cables running the length of the car that would pretty much be an instant fire if they shorted out. All that instead of a little 15lb battery in the front that can never get to me lol.