Whos gone M6 to A3?
#1
Whos gone M6 to A3?
Ok so hears the deal.My car is a M6,Hot Cam,Header,120 spray car,with 3.42's.
Now my best pass on the motor has been 12.7@122 2.0 60' & best pass on the bottle is 11.6@122 1.91 60'.Well i thinking of going to a th350 with 4000 nitrous converter?but what gains would i see,most likely better 60' s but how much power and mph is it going to rob me of?Would i end up with a better E.T. or slower E.T.
BTLFEDSS
Now my best pass on the motor has been 12.7@122 2.0 60' & best pass on the bottle is 11.6@122 1.91 60'.Well i thinking of going to a th350 with 4000 nitrous converter?but what gains would i see,most likely better 60' s but how much power and mph is it going to rob me of?Would i end up with a better E.T. or slower E.T.
BTLFEDSS
#3
I converted from a T56 to an A4 last year and it was the best thing I ever did... if you drive your car on the street you would be better with a built A4... it will survive well into the 10's... I am running mid 9's with my A4...
#4
Originally Posted by vmax1500
I converted from a T56 to an A4 last year and it was the best thing I ever did... if you drive your car on the street you would be better with a built A4... it will survive well into the 10's... I am running mid 9's with my A4...
#5
I dropped like .75 of a sec off my time's from a t-56 to a TH400 and my car was just basic bolt-ons, small cam and N/A. and cut consistent 1.5X 60's w/ it also. you really dont lose HP cause its still making that at the motor its just a drop at the rear wheels
JR
JR
#6
You should not pick up any going from a manual trans to an auto you should lose because of converter slippage and so forth. Alot of people switch to automatics because they get tired of breaking **** If I put an automatic in my car it would slow down.
#7
Originally Posted by TOSTO RACING
You should not pick up any going from a manual trans to an auto you should lose because of converter slippage and so forth. Alot of people switch to automatics because they get tired of breaking **** If I put an automatic in my car it would slow down.
Also from a consistancy point of view, I prefer an automatic... and consistancy wins races... I can run a dozen passes on a weekend at the track and they are all within a 1 1/10 of the each other...
On a side note, I am looking forward to Pinks tonight!
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#8
Just personal preference. Like you said very few drivers can pull off good sixty's and be consistant ,but it can be done. Sticks are very consistant the blue firebird on pinks tonight last time out ran 3 9.95's in a row and won super chevy Indy 2 years ago out of over 200 bracket cars now thats consistant and one hell of a driver. The problem with the stick cars is people just give up. Like I said its personal preference. Sticks are actually more consistant no fluid or torque converter to get hot. Look at NHRA Pro stock.
I'm looking forward to pinks tonight also. I vote for the orange car As far as consistincy watch those 2 cars tonight they don't skip a beat and do the same thing everytime.
Good luck on that 8 sec slip I hope you can do it with that 4l60e that would be awesome
I'm looking forward to pinks tonight also. I vote for the orange car As far as consistincy watch those 2 cars tonight they don't skip a beat and do the same thing everytime.
Good luck on that 8 sec slip I hope you can do it with that 4l60e that would be awesome
#10
Originally Posted by BTLFEDSS
Ok so hears the deal.My car is a M6,Hot Cam,Header,120 spray car,with 3.42's.
Now my best pass on the motor has been 12.7@122 2.0 60' & best pass on the bottle is 11.6@122 1.91 60'.Well i thinking of going to a th350 with 4000 nitrous converter?but what gains would i see,most likely better 60' s but how much power and mph is it going to rob me of?Would i end up with a better E.T. or slower E.T.
BTLFEDSS
Now my best pass on the motor has been 12.7@122 2.0 60' & best pass on the bottle is 11.6@122 1.91 60'.Well i thinking of going to a th350 with 4000 nitrous converter?but what gains would i see,most likely better 60' s but how much power and mph is it going to rob me of?Would i end up with a better E.T. or slower E.T.
BTLFEDSS
#12
Originally Posted by DopeFedZ
You'll definitely lose hp but your ET's and 60' should definitely improve. I don't know if I would do an A3 if you plan on driving the car on the street though.
#13
I went with the M6 as long as possible. I broke my old M6 6 times. Parts were just failing from wear and tear. I got lucky and got GM to replace the whole T56 the third time but then It failed 3 MORE TIMES. Got sick of it! So I had it rebuilt and put 500 miles on it to make sure it was ok and sold it. 4L80 FTW
#14
Originally Posted by TOSTO RACING
Just personal preference. Like you said very few drivers can pull off good sixty's and be consistant ,but it can be done. Sticks are very consistant the blue firebird on pinks tonight last time out ran 3 9.95's in a row and won super chevy Indy 2 years ago out of over 200 bracket cars now thats consistant and one hell of a driver. The problem with the stick cars is people just give up. Like I said its personal preference. Sticks are actually more consistant no fluid or torque converter to get hot. Look at NHRA Pro stock.
I'm looking forward to pinks tonight also. I vote for the orange car As far as consistincy watch those 2 cars tonight they don't skip a beat and do the same thing everytime.
Good luck on that 8 sec slip I hope you can do it with that 4l60e that would be awesome
I'm looking forward to pinks tonight also. I vote for the orange car As far as consistincy watch those 2 cars tonight they don't skip a beat and do the same thing everytime.
Good luck on that 8 sec slip I hope you can do it with that 4l60e that would be awesome
#15
Originally Posted by vmax1500
How many people can really get the most out of thier stick cars? I know I sure couldn't It's MUCH easier to sixty foot a stalled automatic... and sixty foot is the key to ET... There are guys with stock A4 stalled cars cutting 1.7 sixties on crappy tires... how many M6 cars (or drivers) can pull that off?!?!
Also from a consistancy point of view, I prefer an automatic... and consistancy wins races... I can run a dozen passes on a weekend at the track and they are all within a 1 1/10 of the each other...
On a side note, I am looking forward to Pinks tonight!
Also from a consistancy point of view, I prefer an automatic... and consistancy wins races... I can run a dozen passes on a weekend at the track and they are all within a 1 1/10 of the each other...
On a side note, I am looking forward to Pinks tonight!
I went 1.49 60', stock 4L60E, stock motor, stock exhaust, on a 100 shot. MT ET Streets. You'll be hard pressed to find a 6 speed guy do that.
Granted, I've only gone that once, but I've hit many 1.5s (1.52,1.53,1.54 etc)
#16
I"m going from a M6 to th400 right now, swap is in progress. I did it for a couple reasons.. one being that I freely admit that I am not a good enough driver in a stick car to get the most out of my car, best I ever got it to do cam only was a 12.2@114, and it was making 403 rwhp thru a 12 bolt and steel driveshaft weighed about 3700 with me in it (I'm 275) so it's not light by any means, but still, it should have went faster. I also found that even at the speeds I was running, I could not get the car to launch consistant, it literally seemed that a 200 rpm differnece in the launch and it would go from bog to good, and 200 more and it would blow the tires off. Although I never broke the tranny, I know that it is only a matter of time. The 2nd reason I went for the th400 is because I knew eventually (ended up aot sooner then I thought) I would build another motor that would put out alot more power, and make my issues with the stick intensify. I do like the idea of the th400 with transbrake for consistant launches, and with there being little to no racing in the area I can do other then bracket racing on occasion, I think the auto will get me a much more consistant car, once I get a feel for how the car is with hot lapping and whatnot, i think putting a # on the window will be much easier with the setup I'm going with.
I do also plan to street drive my car to shows and whatnot, th400 and 4.10's. I'll most likly pick up a used set of welds, or possibly another set of rear bogarts to put a tall drag radial probably a 28 tall nitto for street driving to use to go to car shows and whatnot, to not waste the 27x11.5 hoosier qtp's that I plan to run at the track. I know a larger track tire would help with consistancey, but the 27x11.5's are on and don't rub at all anywhere with no beating or hacking of the car, so I'm gonna stick with them unless they are completely inadequate.. which I dont think will be the case with the n/a power I suspect I'll end up with, I also should be about as optimized with that tire height and gear as I can get with the setup as well. I don't see teh street driving with the th400 a real issue, as long as I don't try to take any long highway trips with it.. or at least if I do, leave adequate tiime and go slow. I will evnetually drive the car to the track at least once, just to say it was done, it'a about 85 miles one way, and I will just plan for a 55 mph highway cruising speed to get there, and alot the time needed. Probably burn a ton of gas doing it too, but no more then my truck would towing the car, so I guess that's a wash.
I do also plan to street drive my car to shows and whatnot, th400 and 4.10's. I'll most likly pick up a used set of welds, or possibly another set of rear bogarts to put a tall drag radial probably a 28 tall nitto for street driving to use to go to car shows and whatnot, to not waste the 27x11.5 hoosier qtp's that I plan to run at the track. I know a larger track tire would help with consistancey, but the 27x11.5's are on and don't rub at all anywhere with no beating or hacking of the car, so I'm gonna stick with them unless they are completely inadequate.. which I dont think will be the case with the n/a power I suspect I'll end up with, I also should be about as optimized with that tire height and gear as I can get with the setup as well. I don't see teh street driving with the th400 a real issue, as long as I don't try to take any long highway trips with it.. or at least if I do, leave adequate tiime and go slow. I will evnetually drive the car to the track at least once, just to say it was done, it'a about 85 miles one way, and I will just plan for a 55 mph highway cruising speed to get there, and alot the time needed. Probably burn a ton of gas doing it too, but no more then my truck would towing the car, so I guess that's a wash.
#17
Pretty much same here as JL....
M6 to TH400 swap is done... just need to tie up some loose ends and put her back on the ground tonight. Not a DD, but does see street time.
Went w/a TB'd rmvb /SS3600. Currently running a 28"/4.56 combo.... best motor pass was an 11.44@124(460/424). Looking to better that by .5-.7 w/the auto NA. I'm sure I'll lose some MPH vs the M6, but I don't care as I long as the 60'/consistancy improve.... prolly need to lose some gear. This baby F1 kit may turn it into a 660' car temporarilly-
M6 to TH400 swap is done... just need to tie up some loose ends and put her back on the ground tonight. Not a DD, but does see street time.
Went w/a TB'd rmvb /SS3600. Currently running a 28"/4.56 combo.... best motor pass was an 11.44@124(460/424). Looking to better that by .5-.7 w/the auto NA. I'm sure I'll lose some MPH vs the M6, but I don't care as I long as the 60'/consistancy improve.... prolly need to lose some gear. This baby F1 kit may turn it into a 660' car temporarilly-
#18
I'm in the process of having eastside build me a new motor, motor's done they are in the process of removing some stuff form the old motor (oil pan, pickup, reusing the head studs, some stuff like that) and when it goes in, the th400 goes in with it. Hughes rmvb th400 with transbrake, and a 5000 converter. 4.10 gear, 27x11.5 hoosier QTP. Car should be about 3600 with me in it, hoping to see 10.90 or better once the suspension is set. Motor would probably make 550 at the tire if the M6 was still in it, but thru a th400 and big conveter, I dunno, 440 maybe, give or take. A little more weight reduction and it's really gonna fly.
Sounds like your car should too slowetz, I'll bet you lop a good chunk of time off it, but with that 4.56 gear it's either gonna be a n/a car, or it's gonna be a spray 1/8 car, no way you're making it to the 1/4 without a gear change.
Sounds like your car should too slowetz, I'll bet you lop a good chunk of time off it, but with that 4.56 gear it's either gonna be a n/a car, or it's gonna be a spray 1/8 car, no way you're making it to the 1/4 without a gear change.
#19
I hear ya JL. Hell of it is, this is a fresh gear set, and the first one out of four that doesn't cry like a school girl. Had I known I was goin' to the dark side two months earlier, I'd have done a 3.73 or 3.90....
Oh well, guess I'll just go 660' for awhile, or maybe only spray the last half of the pass
Sounds like your chit is gonna be strong... can't wait to see some braked numbers-
Oh well, guess I'll just go 660' for awhile, or maybe only spray the last half of the pass
Sounds like your chit is gonna be strong... can't wait to see some braked numbers-
#20
we shall see... soon enough. Hopefully it will be back together in a couple weeks so I break it in a little and off to a track I go.. to get the boot after the first full pass
Gotta ahte it when you finally get a rear that isn't loud as **** and and you end up having ot take it apart again to do a gear swap
Gotta ahte it when you finally get a rear that isn't loud as **** and and you end up having ot take it apart again to do a gear swap