weld vs bogart weight differnce?
11-14-2006, 08:29 PM
#2
Taken from here: LS1Tech Wheel Weight Thread
Weld Prostar 15x8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13.0
Weld Prostar 15x3.5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.0
Bogart Dragstar 15x10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.0
Bogart Fluted Star 15x3.5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.5
Weld Prostar 15x8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13.0
Weld Prostar 15x3.5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.0
Bogart Dragstar 15x10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.0
Bogart Fluted Star 15x3.5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.5
11-15-2006, 11:20 AM
#4
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The main difference isn't in the exact weight of the wheel . The majority of the Bogarts wheel mass is in the center. So the centrifugal forces will be less with a Bogart hence that will wheel will seem even lighter and accelerate stronger.
11-15-2006, 11:37 AM
#5
Originally Posted by Got Me SOM
The main difference isn't in the exact weight of the wheel . The majority of the Bogarts wheel mass is in the center. So the centrifugal forces will be less with a Bogart hence that will wheel will seem even lighter and accelerate stronger.
when you step up to that quality of wheel, youll see no ET difference. Ive had all 3 on my nova and it still runs the exact same ET as it did 3 years ago.
one nice thing about the welds and americans, is they put the sfi sticker on the wheels.
You cant go wrong with either decision. If you want a set of wheels to bolt on a f-body with stock brakes, get a set of bogarts from sjm. A note though. My front bogarts did need about 5 minutes worth of knocking the flashing off the caliper. Nothing major at all, just a note to check for if you do go bogart.
Last edited by promod1955; 11-15-2006 at 11:43 AM.
11-16-2006, 01:49 PM
#6
Promod is correct. Both high-end welds and our Bogart’s are very good choices. I'd never tell anyone different. When I have the question asked "why should I choose your Bogart wheel over an Alumastar 2", I honestly tell them both are very good choices. Choose the style wheel that you like best. Now if you’re talking comparison to an economy style weld wheel….there are VERY big differences. I seem to get some folks upset when I reference differences. I am not putting down welds prostar/draglite combos…they are good entry level wheels but do have limitations and there are noticeable differences between it and a high-end wheel. Put a set of prostars on your car, and you’re leaving about 50lbs of converted static weight on your car!!!
Summing up differences between a high-end weld and Bogart could be this….I’ll stress HIGH-end welds, not their economy stuff as they are no comparison to our high-end wheels or welds high-end wheels.
1) Depending on how we build the wheels...we can actually build the wheels lighter then their wheel (very small differences down to ~.25lb but I’ll still ring my bell). When we are building them to this caliber, they are more suited towards drag racing only, no street use (just like the Alumastars).
2) If building them to an LS1 setup, you'll step into the P1 series exclusively where we build them for the particular application to fit 99% of the cars (as promod experienced due to tolerance differences sometimes a hand file to clean up flashing etc is necessary). Of course, if one uses aftermarket rotors/calipers or pads and you throw even more things to consider.
I need to reiterate, there are NO part numbers, ALL wheels are built to suit the application whereas unless you the customer know exactly what you need, you put your faith into the person setting up the wheels for you. Backspace knowledge is SMALL part of what we setup when designing the wheel. If the vendor is from our group or straight through us, ALL builds are verified by me and adjusted if necessary. Since I set many of the specs for most of the late model setups, rest assured, they are being built correctly. This of course is only through our verified group of vendors as well as us. If you’re unsure, ask me, I would be happy to verify this. I’ve seen many times a non-participating vendor setting up a wheel which is not an optimum setup for the car…I have no control of those builds.
3) A plus on the weld side for reference. Since the weld wheel is a one piece wheel, a one piece wheel can be almost perfectly true. When you build wheels that are 3 pieces, it is difficult to be perfectly true. There is a negative side to a one piece wheel though…We do have a tolerance of .030” which obviously isn't much...the main benefit of our setups are IF you bend a wheel, you don't have a large expensive paperweight. We warranty wheels, repair wheels etc at a very low cost to our customers. That in itself is a huge plus in my mind. Once again though, if you really like a wheels style, then choose the one you like…wheels make a car and are the most noticeable visible modification.
Summing up differences between a high-end weld and Bogart could be this….I’ll stress HIGH-end welds, not their economy stuff as they are no comparison to our high-end wheels or welds high-end wheels.
1) Depending on how we build the wheels...we can actually build the wheels lighter then their wheel (very small differences down to ~.25lb but I’ll still ring my bell). When we are building them to this caliber, they are more suited towards drag racing only, no street use (just like the Alumastars).
2) If building them to an LS1 setup, you'll step into the P1 series exclusively where we build them for the particular application to fit 99% of the cars (as promod experienced due to tolerance differences sometimes a hand file to clean up flashing etc is necessary). Of course, if one uses aftermarket rotors/calipers or pads and you throw even more things to consider.
I need to reiterate, there are NO part numbers, ALL wheels are built to suit the application whereas unless you the customer know exactly what you need, you put your faith into the person setting up the wheels for you. Backspace knowledge is SMALL part of what we setup when designing the wheel. If the vendor is from our group or straight through us, ALL builds are verified by me and adjusted if necessary. Since I set many of the specs for most of the late model setups, rest assured, they are being built correctly. This of course is only through our verified group of vendors as well as us. If you’re unsure, ask me, I would be happy to verify this. I’ve seen many times a non-participating vendor setting up a wheel which is not an optimum setup for the car…I have no control of those builds.
3) A plus on the weld side for reference. Since the weld wheel is a one piece wheel, a one piece wheel can be almost perfectly true. When you build wheels that are 3 pieces, it is difficult to be perfectly true. There is a negative side to a one piece wheel though…We do have a tolerance of .030” which obviously isn't much...the main benefit of our setups are IF you bend a wheel, you don't have a large expensive paperweight. We warranty wheels, repair wheels etc at a very low cost to our customers. That in itself is a huge plus in my mind. Once again though, if you really like a wheels style, then choose the one you like…wheels make a car and are the most noticeable visible modification.
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11-17-2006, 12:19 PM
#10
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Sometimes I think people forget how much the front tire weighs too. Going from a "vw" radial to a track only front runner can shave over 5 #s. That weight is the furthest to the outside as well.
I have a set of bogart fly stars (8-8.5#'s) with moroso drag special tires (10#s) I am going to try after using draglites with cooper 165 radials.
I have a set of bogart fly stars (8-8.5#'s) with moroso drag special tires (10#s) I am going to try after using draglites with cooper 165 radials.
