racing without an engine belt
You need the battery fully charged, as when voltage begins to drop A/F goes nutty.
You need the battery fully charged, as when voltage begins to drop A/F goes nutty.
now compare alternator only (aka electric waterpump and powersteering bypassed or removed)...
ive seen ALOT of cases where the alternator only one is faster...
and anyone running nitrous or forced induction would probly want to make sure they're getting enough voltage to the pumps....
power steering doesn't do much when your moving..If you had an electric WP i really dont see any problem with it.
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just wondering if the hassle of wiring the alternator is worth it on a track only car...
But I would like to know how the starter of this thread hesham keeps this car together... "2004 gto lg9 6.0l mti stage 2 heads, fast 90/90 zex fogger system 300 hp, and avo twin turbos "
mainly just the 6.0L 300hp fogger system with avo twin turbos? Unless an avo twin turbo set up makes little or no boost? Or that is one incredible engine... Or something is going over my head....

back to back. Belt on vs belt off. 13-16 RWHP.
Belt On, was that only running Alt? or both Alt and Power Steering?
13 to 16 RWHP is a nice gain.
13 to 16 RWHP is a nice gain.
and id bet that the far majority of that is from powersteering, and that the results would be quite diff for a alt only vs no belt dyno.
and id bet that the far majority of that is from powersteering, and that the results would be quite diff for a alt only vs no belt dyno.
I agree. I've been looking at doing that also.
13 to 16 RWHP is a nice gain.
mainly just the 6.0L 300hp fogger system with avo twin turbos? Unless an avo twin turbo set up makes little or no boost? Or that is one incredible engine... Or something is going over my head....
bmr SUBFRAME CONNECTORS
HARROP DIFFERENTIAL COVER WITH POLYURETHANE MOUNT
3.91 deff tech. gear ratio
HARROP REAR CRADLE BUSHINGS
bmr DRAG BAGS
bmr HEAVY DUTY CV SHAFTS
bmr BILLET AXLE STUBS
bmr DRIVESHAFT SAFETY LOOP
3.5" alum. HEAVY DUTY DRIVESHAFT
rebelt 4l60e that can handle 600 hp
lq9 6.0 bore .030 (calys pistons, forged connecting rods with arp studs, forged cranck)
comp lifters
avo twinturbo ( twin GT 35R)
asp pully, powermaster alt. 200amp,
g5x3 cam
mti stage 2r heads
msd coils.
msd windows act. switch
fast 90/90 + zex 300 shots fogger system
fast fuel rials
2 welbro fuel pumps intank + 1 aeromutive prose. inline, 70 lb injectors.
boost cooler (snow performance)
mozier water pump.
nos progressive controller + widband dynojet
e01 perfect greddy boot controller
Uncorrected numbers I would question more than corrected numbers. The correction factor is the attempt to use SAE parameters to stabalize any test data you obtain.
I question this build a bit. First off, who is AVO? Whose kit are you using for twins. Why would use you use a big N/A cam for a F/I application?
Callies, not calys makes crankshafts not piston.
Walboro, not 2 welbro makes fuel pumps
Aeromotive, not aeromutive prose. makes fuel system equipment
Mezeire not mozier makes an electric water pump
I'd like to see pics of this project before I lend it any credence. Att his point I'm sorry to say it sounds like the wishful thinking of a 14 yr old.
Uncorrected numbers I would question more than corrected numbers. The correction factor is the attempt to use SAE parameters to stabalize any test data you obtain.
I question this build a bit. First off, who is AVO? Whose kit are you using for twins. Why would use you use a big N/A cam for a F/I application?
Callies, not calys makes crankshafts not piston.
Walboro, not 2 welbro makes fuel pumps
Aeromotive, not aeromutive prose. makes fuel system equipment
Mezeire not mozier makes an electric water pump
I'd like to see pics of this project before I lend it any credence. Att his point I'm sorry to say it sounds like the wishful thinking of a 14 yr old.
big cam coz i want more power with less boost





