racing without an engine belt
11-19-2006, 09:23 AM
#1
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racing without an engine belt now if i have an electrec water pump and my battery was fully charged can i go to the track without an engine belt? the resone is that i can free the load form the cranck 
11-19-2006, 01:32 PM
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I wouldnt do it. It may free a couple of HP up but when u dont have the alt runnin the car gets ALOT less voltage. I get about 14.0 volts at cruise speed and 13.5 at idle. When the altenator is disconnected i get 11.8 immeaditly and drops off pretty fast. U might get a few minutes outta it at a descent pace but with a big *** pump and all the other electronics that u have ull be draining power REALYL fast. Im not sayin that u will be outta juice before the tracks end im jsut sayin that u wont get the necessary voltage to teh things that need them and u can end up blowin the motor as teh pumps wont pump enough fuel. GL man
John
John
11-19-2006, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 67Ranger
why not take the belt off at the track, and take a battery charger for between runs?
but with my msd coils, twin welbro intank, aeromutive pro s. inline, boost cooler, flix 4600 cfm fans, and nitrous acc. will the volt. be enough for 1/4 mile?
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11-19-2006, 10:03 PM
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You're crazy to try it. You need water flow to remove hot spots throughout
the engine.
By the time you line up, burn out, stage, and make the pass, the engine will
be over temperature, and possibly damaged. It's also a good way to induce
detonation.
the engine.
By the time you line up, burn out, stage, and make the pass, the engine will
be over temperature, and possibly damaged. It's also a good way to induce
detonation.
11-20-2006, 12:19 AM
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Originally Posted by hesham
now if i have an electrec water pump
Originally Posted by Adrenaline_Z
You're crazy to try it. You need water flow to remove hot spots throughout
the engine.
By the time you line up, burn out, stage, and make the pass, the engine will
be over temperature, and possibly damaged. It's also a good way to induce
detonation.
the engine.
By the time you line up, burn out, stage, and make the pass, the engine will
be over temperature, and possibly damaged. It's also a good way to induce
detonation.
11-20-2006, 01:21 AM
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Originally Posted by hesham
now thats what am talking about
but with my msd coils, twin welbro intank, aeromutive pro s. inline, boost cooler, flix 4600 cfm fans, and nitrous acc. will the volt. be enough for 1/4 mile?
but with my msd coils, twin welbro intank, aeromutive pro s. inline, boost cooler, flix 4600 cfm fans, and nitrous acc. will the volt. be enough for 1/4 mile?
11-20-2006, 01:38 AM
#14
It doesn't matter if the electronics are getting 14 volts of 12 in this case. They were designed for 12 volts.
The amperage is what is pushing the power in this case. Don't worry about your ignition system.
However, I would think that the battery weights more than the alternator. Why not try keeping the alternator and putting in the battery just to start it?
The amperage is what is pushing the power in this case. Don't worry about your ignition system.
However, I would think that the battery weights more than the alternator. Why not try keeping the alternator and putting in the battery just to start it?
11-20-2006, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by GOaT Cheese
I have a toggle switch that kills the field windings on the alternator. Flip the switch and it just free wheels, then on the return road, flip it back, it works great.
11-20-2006, 08:50 AM
#18
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Originally Posted by Adrenaline_Z
Good one, you got me. Not sure how I missed electric water pump on the
first line.
first line.
But seriously, trying to get what maybe 5hp from that? Look for it somewhere else man. You have 2 power adder's, up the boost and/or the pill for the gas.
Peace,
Craig.
11-20-2006, 08:53 AM
#19
Originally Posted by 2002_Z28_Six_Speed
It doesn't matter if the electronics are getting 14 volts of 12 in this case. They were designed for 12 volts.
The amperage is what is pushing the power in this case. Don't worry about your ignition system.
However, I would think that the battery weights more than the alternator. Why not try keeping the alternator and putting in the battery just to start it?
The amperage is what is pushing the power in this case. Don't worry about your ignition system.
However, I would think that the battery weights more than the alternator. Why not try keeping the alternator and putting in the battery just to start it?
if you're trying to light off a forced induction or large nitrous car, it matters.
just something to think about....
11-20-2006, 12:01 PM
#20
Originally Posted by Adrenaline_Z
Good one, you got me. Not sure how I missed electric water pump on the
first line.
first line.
Originally Posted by hesham
now if i have an electrec water pump
i alrady have susp. and i am using neto 555 redials
the resone is that i can free the load form the cranck
twin welbro intank, aeromutive pro s. inline, boost cooler, flix 4600 cfm fans, and nitrous acc.
i alrady have susp. and i am using neto 555 redials
the resone is that i can free the load form the cranck
twin welbro intank, aeromutive pro s. inline, boost cooler, flix 4600 cfm fans, and nitrous acc.
Question, by boost cooler do you meen intercooler? Is it an air to air or air to water. Just wondering because there's no way an a2a intercooler draws voltage.