Dash Removal
Dash Removal Guys I need some help. Im removing my dash to have the 6-10 point cage conversion done. I have most of the dash out, but im looking to remove the heater core and all the other inards. Im not looking to put most of it back. Problem is im not sure how to get the rest out. There are no visible screws that hold the rest of that unit in.
Can anyone help me out?
Can anyone help me out?
Im not sure how many of the bolts you have found that holds everything in, most of them are around the big hole in the firewall where the lines all come into the unit, then, there is one that sits dead center behind the engine youll have to get from the engine bay.... If youre not putting this back in, you can just yank and it will break apart and come out, but it is a pain in the ***.
Thanks guys. Searching around a bit i found this.
Original Thread
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...+removal+write
Well, I couldn't find any guides on the board about removing the dash and pulling the HVAC unit, so I figured that I would just take it slow and write my own guide. I just wrote it this morning while it was fresh in my mind so there might be a couple fuzzy details. Comments and criticism appreciated!
==============================
==============================
How to pull your HVAC box (93-96 cars):
Before you start it's a good idea to remove your floor mats as well as your center console.
1. Disconnect your negative battery terminal.
2. Unplug the airbag fuse in the fuse box by the driver's side of the dash.
3. Unscrew the 3 screws at the hinge of the glove box. Open it up and squeeze the tabs to remove it completely.
4. Reach inside the dash and feel along the right side until you come across the passenger-side airbag cable. It's wrapped in yellow. Unplug it.
5. Now look at the bottom of the dash on either side of the transmission hump. You'll notice that there are plastic panels that are held up by push pins. Remove the pins and pull out the panels.
6. Go along the base of the dash, and you'll notice that it screws in to a metal rail. Unscrew these screws.
7. Unscrew the driver-side knee bolster. Make sure you remember to unhook the rear defroster button if necessary.
8. Unscrew and remove the trim panel over the stereo. It has a couple bolt-head screws on each side.
9. Unscrew the black gauge cluster shroud on the driver's side. Gently pull it away. You'll feel the headlight control panel start to pull.
10. The headlight control panel is held in place by two clips on the top. You will probably need needle-nose pliers to reach in and squeeze them. The panel will pop out. Take a moment and disconnect the actual wires, then put the panel aside.
11. The shroud should now be free. Pull it forward. To get it out you will have to tilt it forward a bit and somersault it over the steering wheel (you'll see what I mean when you get to thist step). Pull out the small ducts going to the two oblong air vents.
12. Now for the gauge cluster. First unscrew it. Once it's free, you'll notice an intimidating uber-connector on the left side. It has pinch points on the front and back. Just squeeze and firmly but slowly pull it out. Set the cluster aside somewhere that it won't get traumatized.
-------------------------------------
Now it's time to go up top. Don't start yanking just yet, there's some prep to do as well.
-------------------------------------
13. Unscrew and remove both of your a-pillar panels. On a t-top car this is pretty straightforward.
14. Now take a look at the plastic panel that's over the dash right by the windshield. It's held in by some very strong velcro. There are NO screws. Take a screwdriver and gently pry at a corner. Slowly slide the screwdriver in until you can get a couple fingers under the panel. Shake it a little and you'll hear the velcro start to give. It will take some work, but it will come out. I didn't damage the panel at all removing it.
--------------------------
Now it's time for the top of the dash. Step out of the car and take a look at it for a second through the windshield. You'll notice there are screws going into the dash from the front, but there are also ones coming in from the back.
--------------------------
15. Back inside the car, start unscrewing the screws at the top of the dash. Make sure you don't miss any.
16. At this point, the dash should start to feel loose when you shake it. Bring it forward just a bit. You will feel some resistance because there's still screws in the back that are holding the heater ducting to the dash. Feel around the back of the dash and undo these screws.
17. Feel around the dash and ducting for any screws you might have missed. When you're sure that you've got them all, gently try and separate the HVAC ducting from the dash. It's just as wide as the dashboard. You might need a friend to help you pull the dash out a bit while you pull the ducting straight up and out of the cabin. This will free up a ton of room behind the dash.
18. Take a second now to feel around the back of the dash. There are a bunch of random solenoids and wires that attatch to it... remove them. You may have to clip some zip ties to do this. Make sure you push back the fuse block so it's not getting yanked by the dash. Also pull the HVAC controls.
19. Pull the dash out. It's wide and awkwardly shaped... not an easy one-person job.
20. Unbolt the passenger side airbag and the steel bracket that holds it in place. Set it aside somewhere where it won't explode and kill somebody.
---------------------------
Now things get interesting. Take a moment and survey the mess you've made
The HVAC box is pretty bulky. It's held in place by a series of black 10mm screws as well as a ton of tiny brass-colored screws.
If you look at things from the engine bay you'll notice it's a similar situation... a bunch of tiny screws on the actual housing and the bigger 10mm screws holding the thing in place. A helpful hint: the plastic that you're looking at doesn't just enclose the HVAC system, it is the HVAC system. Don't try to separate it, you'll just get frustrated. Go back inside the cabin and let's start pulling this **** out...
--------------------------
21. From inside, unscrew and remove the passenger-side kick panel. It will make things easier later.
22. Pull back the carpet on the passenger side footwell. You will notice that there's some RTV-like goop lining the bottom of the HVAC unit, and if you feel with your fingers you'll notice that the goop is conveniently covering some of the 10mm bolts. You will have to use your fingers and pull this stuff away.
23. Unbolt every 10mm bolt in sight. Ditto for the small brass screws. Also unbolt and remove the blower fan.
24. Pull away the panel on the left side of the box. There are probably one or two screws on it, I can't remember. Behind tthis panel you'll see the heater core. Unscrew all the screws on it.
25. Go back to the engine bay. If you look at the firewall where the heater core is you'll notice a tiny brass screw sticking down vertically. Use your handy 1/4" drive ratchet to undo this bad boy.
26. If you haven't done so already, you'll want to pull the coolant hoses going to the heater core. Do this at the firewall first... you don't want to do it at the water pump and spill stuff over the opti. There won't be as much coolant as you might expect, but it's still a decent amount.
27. Now you're ready to pull out the heater core. Have a friend gently push in on the metal pipes as you pull from the inside. It should come out with little resistance. Make sure you keep the pipes angled up... there's still antifreeze in that thing.
28. Once the heater core is out of the way, you'll be able to pull away the plastic panel behind it that will expose the A/C evaporator core. Once you see it the shape of the HVAC box will suddenly make sense... "oh, so [i[that's[/i] what the A/C pipes screw into!" give yourself a pat on the back.
-------------------------
Now for the hard part. Go back out to the engine bay. You'll need to unscrew the PCM and pull it aside. You'll notice... that's right... a bunch of 10mm bolts. There's 2 on the top, then 3 (I think) on either side of it. None on the bottom. You will need to bend and twist your arms and wrists like crazy to unbolt some of these. While you're at it you'll want to take out every brass screw you can get to.
-------------------------
29. Take out the bolts and screws mentioned above. Small hands (or children) are helpful for this part.
30. Hop back in the car and have a friend give a slight push on the HVAC while you pull from inside. It will come out a couple inches before it gets caught by the cross bar for the dash.
31. Using a little bit of elbow-grease, separate the A/C evaporator from the HVAC box and pull it out. It's a little bigger than the heater core.
32. By now you've noticed that the HVAC box has a top and bottom. Check to see if there are any more screws you can take off. Then just separate the top and bottom. Once you've done that, you can pull the box out completely.
Congratulations! You're done! Take a moment to admire the back of your engine. If you've gotta replace your starter or tighten your rear header bolts, now is the time to do it... it's never gonna get easier. You'll want to get some sheet metal and make a plate to seal up the firewall. Take your time to reassemble the dash. and make sure all the electrical components are reconnected before you seal the panels up.
==============================
==============================
Any additions / changes?
Original Thread
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...+removal+write
Well, I couldn't find any guides on the board about removing the dash and pulling the HVAC unit, so I figured that I would just take it slow and write my own guide. I just wrote it this morning while it was fresh in my mind so there might be a couple fuzzy details. Comments and criticism appreciated!
==============================
==============================
How to pull your HVAC box (93-96 cars):
Before you start it's a good idea to remove your floor mats as well as your center console.
1. Disconnect your negative battery terminal.
2. Unplug the airbag fuse in the fuse box by the driver's side of the dash.
3. Unscrew the 3 screws at the hinge of the glove box. Open it up and squeeze the tabs to remove it completely.
4. Reach inside the dash and feel along the right side until you come across the passenger-side airbag cable. It's wrapped in yellow. Unplug it.
5. Now look at the bottom of the dash on either side of the transmission hump. You'll notice that there are plastic panels that are held up by push pins. Remove the pins and pull out the panels.
6. Go along the base of the dash, and you'll notice that it screws in to a metal rail. Unscrew these screws.
7. Unscrew the driver-side knee bolster. Make sure you remember to unhook the rear defroster button if necessary.
8. Unscrew and remove the trim panel over the stereo. It has a couple bolt-head screws on each side.
9. Unscrew the black gauge cluster shroud on the driver's side. Gently pull it away. You'll feel the headlight control panel start to pull.
10. The headlight control panel is held in place by two clips on the top. You will probably need needle-nose pliers to reach in and squeeze them. The panel will pop out. Take a moment and disconnect the actual wires, then put the panel aside.
11. The shroud should now be free. Pull it forward. To get it out you will have to tilt it forward a bit and somersault it over the steering wheel (you'll see what I mean when you get to thist step). Pull out the small ducts going to the two oblong air vents.
12. Now for the gauge cluster. First unscrew it. Once it's free, you'll notice an intimidating uber-connector on the left side. It has pinch points on the front and back. Just squeeze and firmly but slowly pull it out. Set the cluster aside somewhere that it won't get traumatized.
-------------------------------------
Now it's time to go up top. Don't start yanking just yet, there's some prep to do as well.
-------------------------------------
13. Unscrew and remove both of your a-pillar panels. On a t-top car this is pretty straightforward.
14. Now take a look at the plastic panel that's over the dash right by the windshield. It's held in by some very strong velcro. There are NO screws. Take a screwdriver and gently pry at a corner. Slowly slide the screwdriver in until you can get a couple fingers under the panel. Shake it a little and you'll hear the velcro start to give. It will take some work, but it will come out. I didn't damage the panel at all removing it.
--------------------------
Now it's time for the top of the dash. Step out of the car and take a look at it for a second through the windshield. You'll notice there are screws going into the dash from the front, but there are also ones coming in from the back.
--------------------------
15. Back inside the car, start unscrewing the screws at the top of the dash. Make sure you don't miss any.
16. At this point, the dash should start to feel loose when you shake it. Bring it forward just a bit. You will feel some resistance because there's still screws in the back that are holding the heater ducting to the dash. Feel around the back of the dash and undo these screws.
17. Feel around the dash and ducting for any screws you might have missed. When you're sure that you've got them all, gently try and separate the HVAC ducting from the dash. It's just as wide as the dashboard. You might need a friend to help you pull the dash out a bit while you pull the ducting straight up and out of the cabin. This will free up a ton of room behind the dash.
18. Take a second now to feel around the back of the dash. There are a bunch of random solenoids and wires that attatch to it... remove them. You may have to clip some zip ties to do this. Make sure you push back the fuse block so it's not getting yanked by the dash. Also pull the HVAC controls.
19. Pull the dash out. It's wide and awkwardly shaped... not an easy one-person job.
20. Unbolt the passenger side airbag and the steel bracket that holds it in place. Set it aside somewhere where it won't explode and kill somebody.
---------------------------
Now things get interesting. Take a moment and survey the mess you've made
The HVAC box is pretty bulky. It's held in place by a series of black 10mm screws as well as a ton of tiny brass-colored screws.
If you look at things from the engine bay you'll notice it's a similar situation... a bunch of tiny screws on the actual housing and the bigger 10mm screws holding the thing in place. A helpful hint: the plastic that you're looking at doesn't just enclose the HVAC system, it is the HVAC system. Don't try to separate it, you'll just get frustrated. Go back inside the cabin and let's start pulling this **** out...
--------------------------
21. From inside, unscrew and remove the passenger-side kick panel. It will make things easier later.
22. Pull back the carpet on the passenger side footwell. You will notice that there's some RTV-like goop lining the bottom of the HVAC unit, and if you feel with your fingers you'll notice that the goop is conveniently covering some of the 10mm bolts. You will have to use your fingers and pull this stuff away.
23. Unbolt every 10mm bolt in sight. Ditto for the small brass screws. Also unbolt and remove the blower fan.
24. Pull away the panel on the left side of the box. There are probably one or two screws on it, I can't remember. Behind tthis panel you'll see the heater core. Unscrew all the screws on it.
25. Go back to the engine bay. If you look at the firewall where the heater core is you'll notice a tiny brass screw sticking down vertically. Use your handy 1/4" drive ratchet to undo this bad boy.
26. If you haven't done so already, you'll want to pull the coolant hoses going to the heater core. Do this at the firewall first... you don't want to do it at the water pump and spill stuff over the opti. There won't be as much coolant as you might expect, but it's still a decent amount.
27. Now you're ready to pull out the heater core. Have a friend gently push in on the metal pipes as you pull from the inside. It should come out with little resistance. Make sure you keep the pipes angled up... there's still antifreeze in that thing.
28. Once the heater core is out of the way, you'll be able to pull away the plastic panel behind it that will expose the A/C evaporator core. Once you see it the shape of the HVAC box will suddenly make sense... "oh, so [i[that's[/i] what the A/C pipes screw into!" give yourself a pat on the back.
-------------------------
Now for the hard part. Go back out to the engine bay. You'll need to unscrew the PCM and pull it aside. You'll notice... that's right... a bunch of 10mm bolts. There's 2 on the top, then 3 (I think) on either side of it. None on the bottom. You will need to bend and twist your arms and wrists like crazy to unbolt some of these. While you're at it you'll want to take out every brass screw you can get to.
-------------------------
29. Take out the bolts and screws mentioned above. Small hands (or children) are helpful for this part.
30. Hop back in the car and have a friend give a slight push on the HVAC while you pull from inside. It will come out a couple inches before it gets caught by the cross bar for the dash.
31. Using a little bit of elbow-grease, separate the A/C evaporator from the HVAC box and pull it out. It's a little bigger than the heater core.
32. By now you've noticed that the HVAC box has a top and bottom. Check to see if there are any more screws you can take off. Then just separate the top and bottom. Once you've done that, you can pull the box out completely.
Congratulations! You're done! Take a moment to admire the back of your engine. If you've gotta replace your starter or tighten your rear header bolts, now is the time to do it... it's never gonna get easier. You'll want to get some sheet metal and make a plate to seal up the firewall. Take your time to reassemble the dash. and make sure all the electrical components are reconnected before you seal the panels up.
==============================
==============================
Any additions / changes?
had to braek some of mine out, it is glued in in some areas, but most of it is bolted. theres one in the middle of the firewall that hold it in from the engine bay, you can't get to it from engine bay, so you might have to break it from the inside.
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From: Albuquerque NM - The Land of 8000ft DA
Originally Posted by JPH
had to braek some of mine out, it is glued in in some areas, but most of it is bolted. theres one in the middle of the firewall that hold it in from the engine bay, you can't get to it from engine bay, so you might have to break it from the inside.
I got to it from the engine bay. 10mm I believe.
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its a pain in the *** on the dash i got pissed off at mine and took my mini sledge hammer and just started beating on it lol it didnt help but i was tired of messing with it( the dash was in bad shape as it was so it didnt matter)
