Drag race gurus needed (10's or faster only please)
#1
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Drag race gurus needed (10's or faster only please)
Ok Here is why I need racers and not bentch racers.
If your car is not running 10's or faster please feel free to read, but I am not looking for input unless you are actually DOING it..
In a discussion elsewhere on the board, a person who will remain nameless (no it was not me)
Said that this is a recipe for a Reliable Daily Driven Full Weight 10 second F-Body.
I see about a recipe for a broken/wrecked car that wont see 10's and is anything but reliable.
I would like to know what do you guys (10 sec racers or better) think about it...
If your car is not running 10's or faster please feel free to read, but I am not looking for input unless you are actually DOING it..
In a discussion elsewhere on the board, a person who will remain nameless (no it was not me)
Said that this is a recipe for a Reliable Daily Driven Full Weight 10 second F-Body.
LME 408 Iron shortblock capable of 700 to the wheels $4300 shipped.
ETP 240 heads $2500
gaskets & head bolts $100
Timing chain $100
fast 90/90 combo $1100
Cam $450
SLP oil pump $160
Fuel pump $110
42# injectors $300
Underdrive pulley $200
Belts $50
Lid $100
Pacesetter LT headers & ORY $500
Hooker catback $300
NX 150 wetkit + safety devices $1,000
LCA $120
Panhard bar $130
SFC $250
Torque arm $330
STB $100
Performabuilt level 3 with a 3500 stall & 24K tranny cooler $3000.
$400 for a dyno tune as well as $300 for a pair of drag radials. 6 point roll bar $300.
Pair of quality racing seats $300
Helmet $100
5 point harness $70
Fire Jacket $60
Fire extinguisher $60
DSL $100
That should be everything to allow you to run as quick as 10.00 and brings the new parts total to $16,890.
ETP 240 heads $2500
gaskets & head bolts $100
Timing chain $100
fast 90/90 combo $1100
Cam $450
SLP oil pump $160
Fuel pump $110
42# injectors $300
Underdrive pulley $200
Belts $50
Lid $100
Pacesetter LT headers & ORY $500
Hooker catback $300
NX 150 wetkit + safety devices $1,000
LCA $120
Panhard bar $130
SFC $250
Torque arm $330
STB $100
Performabuilt level 3 with a 3500 stall & 24K tranny cooler $3000.
$400 for a dyno tune as well as $300 for a pair of drag radials. 6 point roll bar $300.
Pair of quality racing seats $300
Helmet $100
5 point harness $70
Fire Jacket $60
Fire extinguisher $60
DSL $100
That should be everything to allow you to run as quick as 10.00 and brings the new parts total to $16,890.
I would like to know what do you guys (10 sec racers or better) think about it...
#3
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by skipperbisket
waste of a post....but ya, a setup similar to the one quoted would be capable of 10s in a street car.
Any post furthering tech info on F-Bodies is not waisted.
(you running tens on a stock driveshaft?)
#5
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Originally Posted by skipperbisket
TONS have ran 10s on stock driveshaft, i would have had the motor not gone south.
There are 105 10 second cars (registered) on this site. How many are running stock aluminum DS's ?
Last edited by jaberwaki; 03-04-2007 at 05:35 PM.
#6
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I would not think anything with that many mods would be reliable. I have similar, but many more mods than that, and mine runs great. Until I beat on it at the track. And then you begin to find the weak points. I also don't daily drive mine. I could, but I would not feel secure in it being a daily driver. Something will go south, sooner or later. I would not drive a car with those mods and a stock drive shaft.
10's? Sure.
Reliable? No.
10's? Sure.
Reliable? No.
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#9
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Originally Posted by LSXNV
what was the point of all this?
If you have no constructive input, why are you posting?
I had a simple request. A critic on this set up from people who have run 10's or faster.
If you have no critic or have not run 10's or faster
PLEASE DO NOT POST IN THIS THREAD THERE ARE PLENTY OUT THERE!!!
I cant make it any simpler.
#10
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ok, well, nothing that came factory running low 13s can be made to run 10s and be 100% reliable. something always breaks. and there is no such thing as "the recipe" for running tens. all you can do is have all the right parts to run tens. but at that level nothing is ever for sure. hell, i thought i had all i needed to run the number only to be sidelined by wheel studs. then a broke windshield. then shattered u-joints...
#11
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My car is not proven 10's YET but since nobody has pointed this out I will.
Good luck finding a safe and legal helmet for $100. Maybe a cheapo open face IF your lucky but I doubt for $100.
As far as I know you only need a DS saftey loop when on slicks.
Unless the 6 point is a bolt in you will need to add the cost to get it welded in.
Doubt you can find a GOOD harness for that cheap but I could be wrong
Don't you need an 8 point for 10's?
You can get a good used NX kit with all the parts for cheaper then that, quite a bit cheaper.
You can have a GOOD STRONG tranny build for less then that and will handle the same amount of power.
You DON'T need a built bottom end to run 10's. Plenty of reliable cam only 10 sec cars on here.
You don't need 2k in heads to go 10's deff not with the bottle.
Stick with a ported LS1 TB and LS6 intake. Not enough gain in HP really to make up for the cost.
YOU DO NOT!!!!!!! need racing seats to go 10's
Your stall speed depends on all your parts and gears.
Thank me later for just saving you a few grand.
Yeah my car is not proven yet but some it does not mean me and the others do not know what we are talking about.
Go gears, built tranny, stall, injectors, LS6 intake MS3/MS4 (From what I have seen both are ok in DD cars), bolt-ons, stickies, tune, saftey equipment, 150 shot and run 10's
A good cam/stall/tune/gear car alone should get you deep 11's on its own.
IMHO you would not need a built bottom end for that. My combo will make 500rwhp on the stock LT1 bottom end and a baby cam....
Good luck finding a safe and legal helmet for $100. Maybe a cheapo open face IF your lucky but I doubt for $100.
As far as I know you only need a DS saftey loop when on slicks.
Unless the 6 point is a bolt in you will need to add the cost to get it welded in.
Doubt you can find a GOOD harness for that cheap but I could be wrong
Don't you need an 8 point for 10's?
You can get a good used NX kit with all the parts for cheaper then that, quite a bit cheaper.
You can have a GOOD STRONG tranny build for less then that and will handle the same amount of power.
You DON'T need a built bottom end to run 10's. Plenty of reliable cam only 10 sec cars on here.
You don't need 2k in heads to go 10's deff not with the bottle.
Stick with a ported LS1 TB and LS6 intake. Not enough gain in HP really to make up for the cost.
YOU DO NOT!!!!!!! need racing seats to go 10's
Your stall speed depends on all your parts and gears.
Thank me later for just saving you a few grand.
Yeah my car is not proven yet but some it does not mean me and the others do not know what we are talking about.
Go gears, built tranny, stall, injectors, LS6 intake MS3/MS4 (From what I have seen both are ok in DD cars), bolt-ons, stickies, tune, saftey equipment, 150 shot and run 10's
A good cam/stall/tune/gear car alone should get you deep 11's on its own.
IMHO you would not need a built bottom end for that. My combo will make 500rwhp on the stock LT1 bottom end and a baby cam....
#12
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Im doing it with mods in sig. N/A. 98,000 mile stock shortblock. Reliable, you will tear up trannies and 10 bolts for sure. Its easy to tear up a stock LS1 car if you abuse it. The main thing is to have a good suspension setup. You give me a 408 and Ill be in the 9s on motor.
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it will be reliable if tuned correctly.
out of all that jabber, its just a 408 H/C/I/ car w/ spray, and w/ weight reduction could see 9s.
ill be in the 10s Cam only and my car is a DD.
-brandon
out of all that jabber, its just a 408 H/C/I/ car w/ spray, and w/ weight reduction could see 9s.
ill be in the 10s Cam only and my car is a DD.
-brandon
#14
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by JaSSon
Im doing it with mods in sig. N/A. 98,000 mile stock shortblock. Reliable, you will tear up trannies and 10 bolts for sure. Its easy to tear up a stock LS1 car if you abuse it. The main thing is to have a good suspension setup. You give me a 408 and Ill be in the 9s on motor.
Tire/ wheel combo?
Whats your race weight?
Thanks
#15
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Originally Posted by Demonicbird00
it will be reliable if tuned correctly.
out of all that jabber, its just a 408 H/C/I/ car w/ spray, and w/ weight reduction could see 9s.
-brandon
out of all that jabber, its just a 408 H/C/I/ car w/ spray, and w/ weight reduction could see 9s.
-brandon
Think it will run 9's with the stock sway bar, front tires and driveshaft?
#17
Originally Posted by jaberwaki
Full weight sir... full weight...
Think it will run 9's with the stock sway bar, front tires and driveshaft?
Think it will run 9's with the stock sway bar, front tires and driveshaft?
But now everyone who posts anything your busting their *** because you think they havent run 10's or better... Instead of making this useless post, use the extensive timeslip database that LS1tech has provided you with and SEARCH for set-ups in the 10's or quicker and answer your own question!
#18
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Ls1LikeNoOther
See the problem is you posted this list for people to read, and im sure it can be done but their are usually some givens, or things people leave out..Such as a driveshaft, trans, slicks n skinnys...
But now everyone who posts anything your busting their *** because you think they havent run 10's or better...
Instead of making this useless post, use the extensive timeslip database that LS1tech has provided you with and SEARCH for set-ups in the 10's or quicker and answer your own question!
You know, perhaps you should invest in some reading lessons or something...
I am asking for a CRITIC of a list that was posted by someone else...
I am NOT asking what will it take to get my car there...Its already there....
You posted a absolutely pointless post about making a useless post, in a thread that specifically asked if you dont have a critic or run tens to please dont post...
De de deeeeee.....
#19
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MAN! you realy got a chip on your shoulder eh?
Let me knock that bitch off.
I AM running a 12 bolt.
I AM running a built A4
I am running a forged bottom end.
Now for what you DON'T want to hear.
I AM running a stock LS1 Drive line
I AM over 3,700Lbs in the footage you are about to see.
I AM running stock seats and FULL Interior
I AM NHRA Legal to 10.00 And now prepping for faster
I HAVE been warned for running 136Mph(Over the 135 limit)
I HAVE been running tens knocking on Nines door
I DO run in street legal trim
There ARE People WAY faster then me with less
SEARCH Is your friend
Now tell me if THIS is fast enough to qualify for you
Let me knock that bitch off.
I AM running a 12 bolt.
I AM running a built A4
I am running a forged bottom end.
Now for what you DON'T want to hear.
I AM running a stock LS1 Drive line
I AM over 3,700Lbs in the footage you are about to see.
I AM running stock seats and FULL Interior
I AM NHRA Legal to 10.00 And now prepping for faster
I HAVE been warned for running 136Mph(Over the 135 limit)
I HAVE been running tens knocking on Nines door
I DO run in street legal trim
There ARE People WAY faster then me with less
SEARCH Is your friend
Now tell me if THIS is fast enough to qualify for you