24 volt
6 & 8 Second Club
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,284
Likes: 0
From: Illinois, RT 66 dragway area
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My buddy has a 24V starter on his Pro-Mod, I have the 16V.
He uses a 24V starter, I never saw anyone use 24V on a 12V starter, so becareful u don't burn out the windings.
I wasn't there when they wired it, but from a quick look, it looks like they went,
Ground to 1st bat neg, pos to cut off in, cut off out to neg of 2nd bat & to the power block, pos of 2nd bat to remote start relay. Which if I saw it correct, when u hit the cut off, u loose the ground, which kills the starter power also.
I'm old and it's been almost a year, so hope I helped??
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My buddy has a 24V starter on his Pro-Mod, I have the 16V.
He uses a 24V starter, I never saw anyone use 24V on a 12V starter, so becareful u don't burn out the windings.
I wasn't there when they wired it, but from a quick look, it looks like they went,
Ground to 1st bat neg, pos to cut off in, cut off out to neg of 2nd bat & to the power block, pos of 2nd bat to remote start relay. Which if I saw it correct, when u hit the cut off, u loose the ground, which kills the starter power also.
I'm old and it's been almost a year, so hope I helped??
.
6 & 8 Second Club
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,284
Likes: 0
From: Illinois, RT 66 dragway area
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They are a bunch of hacks. They know they don't make Pro-Mod's fire up during tech, so I'm sure legal was not an issue with them. The mag kill would make it die anyway, so tech would never know what was going on under the wing.
I personally have never seen the need for a 24V starter, I see 3000 HP Pro-Mods start fine with a 16V, if you are that radical run dual batteries. They started everything with 12V for many many years, keep ur stuff charged and u will be fine.
Good luck with whatever u try.
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They are a bunch of hacks. They know they don't make Pro-Mod's fire up during tech, so I'm sure legal was not an issue with them. The mag kill would make it die anyway, so tech would never know what was going on under the wing.
I personally have never seen the need for a 24V starter, I see 3000 HP Pro-Mods start fine with a 16V, if you are that radical run dual batteries. They started everything with 12V for many many years, keep ur stuff charged and u will be fine.
Good luck with whatever u try.
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On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 159
Likes: 0
Not trying to hijack the thread,but I have a related question. I am close to finishing my bbc swap and don't plan to use an alternator as it's a drag only settup.What battery(s) would you guys recomend.I would like to stick with 12v to avoid issues with my gauges and accessory's. 
I'm changing over to a 12/16 volt 3 post battery. The starter and BS3 will run on 16 volts and everything else on 12 volts. Something different and I'm giving it a try.
I'm using 2 Flaming River push pull switches that operate on 1 push pull rod. I designed the set up and had my local fabrication shop weld the aluminum bracket together. He also came down to my garage and welded the brackets to the car that the switches bolt to.
No I don't have pics at the moment due to my car is being rewired by a professional. My car is at his shop. He is removing ALL the wiring and fuse boxes in the car and stating over. Should be finished in a few weeks.
I'm using 2 Flaming River push pull switches that operate on 1 push pull rod. I designed the set up and had my local fabrication shop weld the aluminum bracket together. He also came down to my garage and welded the brackets to the car that the switches bolt to.
No I don't have pics at the moment due to my car is being rewired by a professional. My car is at his shop. He is removing ALL the wiring and fuse boxes in the car and stating over. Should be finished in a few weeks.
Imo...
Originally Posted by stressfulcar
Not trying to hijack the thread,but I have a related question. I am close to finishing my bbc swap and don't plan to use an alternator as it's a drag only settup.What battery(s) would you guys recomend.I would like to stick with 12v to avoid issues with my gauges and accessory's.
2 reasons come to mind:
1. "Between rounds" charging only puts a surface charge on the battery. This charge quickly dissipates after the first engine start.
2. Electric fuel pump performance is significantly reduced when the voltage supply drops even 1 volt.
Given you are just putting this car together, why not provide for an alternator? If it's the HP drain you are concerned about.. Forget it. It's very small. [As in 3, maybe?] If you just "have to have" that power, add a kill sw to the exciter wire, and turn it off once the car is staged, and back on at the end of the run.
As for the battery choice, I'd use a heavy duty unit, and make SURE the wiring is first class. IE: large cables, good grounds, a hi quality shut off sw. [The cheapos can add alot of voltage drop.]
Trending Topics
6 & 8 Second Club
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,284
Likes: 0
From: Illinois, RT 66 dragway area
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I have ran with an alt and single battery or without and dual batteries.
Never had a problem either way. I would put charger on 1st thing,
before I even took suit off or checked ticket.
My car is towed up & back, so I didn't use up much power driving around the pits.
I ran optima reds, but there are several great drag race batteries out now.
The 12/16 volt deal is used once in a while around here, since u have to buy a new charger & alternator anyway and everything on my cars are made for 12 or 16 volts, we run everything off the 16V. Tom is there something on your car that will burn up on 16V??
On a bracket car, there is no reason NOT to run an alt, like said, it doesn't take much power, and it's good insurance against getting rushed back to the line, due to weather or oil downs. Good, clean, tight connections are a must in a drag car, it really sucks having a great night, cutting the tree down and have a 10 cent part come loose costing u a round or win. Good luck either way.
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I have ran with an alt and single battery or without and dual batteries.
Never had a problem either way. I would put charger on 1st thing,
before I even took suit off or checked ticket.
My car is towed up & back, so I didn't use up much power driving around the pits.
I ran optima reds, but there are several great drag race batteries out now.
The 12/16 volt deal is used once in a while around here, since u have to buy a new charger & alternator anyway and everything on my cars are made for 12 or 16 volts, we run everything off the 16V. Tom is there something on your car that will burn up on 16V??
On a bracket car, there is no reason NOT to run an alt, like said, it doesn't take much power, and it's good insurance against getting rushed back to the line, due to weather or oil downs. Good, clean, tight connections are a must in a drag car, it really sucks having a great night, cutting the tree down and have a 10 cent part come loose costing u a round or win. Good luck either way.
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Originally Posted by mrdragster1970
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The 12/16 volt deal is used once in a while around here, since u have to buy a new charger & alternator anyway and everything on my cars are made for 12 or 16 volts, we run everything off the 16V. Tom is there something on your car that will burn up on 16V??
The 12/16 volt deal is used once in a while around here, since u have to buy a new charger & alternator anyway and everything on my cars are made for 12 or 16 volts, we run everything off the 16V. Tom is there something on your car that will burn up on 16V??
. The BS3 and the power master starter can definately run 16 volts. The biggest reason for the 3 post is I got a real good deal on 3 brand new turbo start 3 post battery's after they went out of business. They were still dry. They fabricated the turbo start batterys 25 miles from my house lol. I have 2 boosters also. They work well. I don't need to change to a 16 volt alt.
I should be good for a few years with these 3 batterys depending on how many seasons i get out each of the battery's.
Another company just came out with the 3 post also.
Last edited by Tom the roofer; Apr 1, 2007 at 12:28 PM.
