Yes there are no opens in the harness. I really hope they are right about my grounds,but I'm thinking its not gonna work. I'll see here in a few days.

 

Tim,
My buddy is putting the front mount distributor in his ls1 as we speak. It has became kind of an ordeal in itself. On top of buying the front mount cover and cam driven gear, you have to obviously buy the Ford Distributor and a box. On top of that you end up having to space out the waterpump like 3 inches which might cause a problem in an fbody. Then, you have to pin the crank as well which means pulling the motor. Kind of a cool setup, just thought I'd let you know that you'll have to pull the motor so if it ends up with that you know what you're getting into.

Doug

 

Thanks for the info,hopefully I can get this to work. I know its gonna be something so simple.

 

I mentined this before but you are 100% sure the pink wire has power when you are cranking it right? If you are using the stock wiring and key to start it lot of the 'ignition on' hots go dead when the key in in the crank position.

Just making sure, that has got a lot of people over the years..

I'm looking at the instructions and there is really nothing to it, I would double check the cam/crank sensor wires and make sure the pin out is correct and they are getting 12v while cranking. Sometimes the A-B-Cs gets crossed up and if you hook up the cam or crank sensor wrong they are instantly fried..

 

I think KP hit the nail on the head ! The fuel pump might not be getting power during start mode also.

 

I do have 12 volts cranking. I also have checked for cam signal and crank sensor signal and have them both and all pins on harness are the way the msd diagram shows them to be. My fuel pump is seperate from everything it works by it self. I jumped a wire from the fuse box to the starter to eliminate all of the crap so it would crank. Thanks guys I'm still listening.

 

No problem Tim, hope you get it running. Excited to see what that beast will do this year.

 

Have you checked the factory ignition relay? I've had mine go out a couple times.

 

check your reluctor wheel for crank sensor you may have to big of a gap between the sensor and the wheel also check for broke or missing teeth. no rpm is a sign of loss crank signal and the crank sensor is what lets the pcm know when to fire each coil the cam sensor is used for pulsing injectors

 

Can you bend your crank sensor tap some? Allowing it to sink into your block a couple thousandths more. Your signal will be stronger, better voltage, hopefully allowing the box to read it and fire up. Not sure you will be able to sink the sensor into the block further though. Best of luck!

 

Tim
I don't know if you are going through the factory ecm or how it is wired. We had the factory anti theft system removed from the program and after several battery disconnects the car would not start unless we used the key with the chip in it.
Alan

 

The crank sensor deal sounds like a good idea that I have thought about ,but I am getting 6 volts while cranking at the sensor. That is what is so weird. There is no pcm in the car and no more anti theft I bypassed that stuff with a wire straight to the starter so it would crank. I 'm gonna mess with it sat some more so we'll see what happens fingers crossed on the moving the grounds around.

 

You're right, I was thinking of an AC signal.

 

Moving the grounds did absolutley nothing which I knew it wouldn't my grounds are fine and I'm not losing them . I just did it to satisfy msd. It did end up starting ,but it had to jumped with a running car,weird. I have tried a new battery even though mine is okay and now won't even start if ijump it now The only thing I can think of is avoltage drop while cranking. I have no idea why it ran the factory pcm just like it is now.


I wil say one thing this car never sounded so good. Screw efi this is the only way to go it sat there and idled at 1350 rpm and had the good ole exhaust squeak at idle this thing is gonna fly


I just wish I could get it to fire all the time

 

What is in the car for a battery, it's in the trunk I assume, who big is the wire that's running to it?

Maybe it worked with the computer because of the start timing or something beign differnent making starting easier?

have you tried/can you put a stock sized battery back in the front to see if that will solve it, or is there way to play with the start timing with that msd box... maybe it's something like that, or maybe the wire resistance going from the back to the front is the problem. Is there a dedicated ground wire from the battery to the MSD box? Try that possibly.. that might fix it too.

 

6 volts at the crank sensor sounds low. Maybe your battery wires are grounding to the body somewhere.

 

Voltage drop while cranking is a killer, the stock PCM will work down to something like 8 volts, many aftermarket boxes wont. Either get bigger cables, better grounds or do the 16v battery thing. I have asked around and you arent the first guy to have problems with low voltage on those boxes. Try taking a seperate battery and hooking the box up to that alone and see what happens with a solid 12v there when its cranking..

 

I think we are on to something here I only have 4 gauge going to the battery. If the pcm will work with 8 volts then thats the answer the box prolly doesn't work that low like you said. Whats weird is it fired at 9.5 cranking volts and now won't fire at 10.7 cranking volts jumped. I'm still trying to figure out why it started when I jumped and now it won't. Any way I'm gonna try bigger cables and try this new battery just for the box and see what happens its getting closer . I had tried another battery just for the box and no luck ,but it wasn't new maybe its shot, doubt it , it tests good, but hopefully it was. Its the only thing left to do.


Thanks guys

 

Don't forget that's 6 ac volts factory recommends 4-6 ac volts. We'll see what happens here in a couple days.

You need a driver for that PINKS car

 

I'd run a ) guage wire, and do a dedicated ground wire from the battery to the box, just to be safe. I've read about people having problems with bs3 that wasn't grounded right to the battery.

Not sure if you have the wires/lugs up in the front still, but I'd put a battery up there if you can just to try it... if that works then restring teh biggest damn wire to the back you can find.

Could the battery kill switch in the back be going.... that might bhave some resistance to it too if it's getting worn, could also be a problem.



If you can, take a multimeter and get a resistance reading from the positive battery terminal to the power wire up at the front, when everything is on it shouldn't be much at all