What about the 8pt ROLL BAR from Competition Engineering?
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What about the 8pt ROLL BAR cage from Competition Engineering?
The Wolfe looks nice but what about Competition Engineering Roll Bar / Cage?
http://www.competitionengineering.co...?CatCode=11006
Summit has them for $165.95
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku
http://www.competitionengineering.co...?CatCode=11006
Summit has them for $165.95
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku
Last edited by ls1bud; 05-25-2007 at 01:22 PM.
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Originally Posted by Taubr Unit
and how many people TIG weld everything toghter? I want to get one but i only have access to a MIG welder. Whats the positives/negitives to both? Is the TIG just for NHRA rules? I would hate to pay someone a thousand bucks to weld it when i can do it for free.
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I've seen the comp eng. 8 point in a car and it is priced right. I didn't notice any problems with the way it fit so I'm planning on ordering one when the track tells me to slow down.
NHRA rules says mild steal can be mig or tig welded.
NHRA rules says mild steal can be mig or tig welded.
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ive got one...and its a good kit...main hoop fits nice....
i had the door bars bent to make it easier in and out of the car and more comfortable driving down the road
i had the door bars bent to make it easier in and out of the car and more comfortable driving down the road
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A mild steel is 20-30 lbs. heavier in a 6 point configuration due to the fact that the bars have to be thicker.
I used the Comp rollbar and mig'ed it in myself. Yeah it's a weight penalty but for that 20-30 lbs. I saved a lot of money.
Main hoop fits nice, the 4 major bars are straight and notched on one end. This is not a kit for someone with just a welder. You'll need to bend bars, cut bars, and notch if necessary. But when you get done you can have a nice 5, 6, or 8 point rollbar for less than $200 in materials and your time.
I used the Comp rollbar and mig'ed it in myself. Yeah it's a weight penalty but for that 20-30 lbs. I saved a lot of money.
Main hoop fits nice, the 4 major bars are straight and notched on one end. This is not a kit for someone with just a welder. You'll need to bend bars, cut bars, and notch if necessary. But when you get done you can have a nice 5, 6, or 8 point rollbar for less than $200 in materials and your time.
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can you elaborate on how much extra work there is. i mean the kit wont just fit together as is? it doesnt come notched already? the welding aspect of it isnt that big of a deal
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Originally Posted by Hennytime
can you elaborate on how much extra work there is. i mean the kit wont just fit together as is? it doesnt come notched already? the welding aspect of it isnt that big of a deal
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Originally Posted by AL SS590 M6
Go back and read my post again.
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As I said in the first post one end of each long bar is notched so that means that you have to angle cut the other end where it hits the floor plate. And if you want the back bars anywhere but straight to the rear deck you'll have to bend them yourself. The bending of the door bars is so that you can keep a stock interior. With them straight they hit the armrest on the door. If you try to clear the armrest with the bar straight the bottom end will be under the brake pedal.
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I thought you weren't allowed to bend the door bars? Or is that the main hoop only?
Mines not a F-Body but I am going with a Jegs 10pt myself and migging it in myself.
Mines not a F-Body but I am going with a Jegs 10pt myself and migging it in myself.
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Originally Posted by jakesz28
Correct me if I'm wrong but the 6 piont or 8 point roll bar is only legal from 11.00-11.49. Faster then 10.99 you have to have the cage?
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Originally Posted by JDP
no, i think in a hartop or t-top car you need a cage at 9.99 and faster, i think convertables are different
That is what I thought but while I was looking at other options I read someone advertising a roll bar for 11.00-11.49 and their cages 10.99 and on.