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Using DR's and line-lock for first time soon.

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Old May 15, 2007 | 10:04 PM
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Default Using DR's and line-lock for first time soon.

Any tips or anything unexpected I need to know about before I do this? How long do I go for? I hear I need to turn the wheels while doing a burnout with the LL? Things like that?
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Old May 15, 2007 | 11:28 PM
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Pull through the water box about 1 foot - don't stop inside the box. Activate your LL. Press the brake 3-4 times. You don't mention M6 or Auto. On an M6, easy clutch (you don't have to dump it) out as you apply gas, shift into 2nd, 5 second burn out (about 5), release LL and roll out, pre-stage, etc.... Auto: after you set your LL and pump your brakes, shift from 1st to 2nd, again 5 second burn out (about), release LL and roll out, pre-stage. I normally will hold the gas right at red line for the burn out.

It may take a couple of times to get it down, but it is a lot easier to do your burn out with a LL. You should stay straight as long as you got both rear tires the wet the same. Make sure there is water in the box.

Have fun and practice.

David
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Old May 16, 2007 | 04:03 AM
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You should never pump the brakes after the line lock is activated. This just build up pressure on the solenoid and damage it. You can pump the brakes before you activate it, but never after. Most instructions with the line lock will also advise against this.
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Old May 16, 2007 | 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by smoknta
You should never pump the brakes after the line lock is activated. This just build up pressure on the solenoid and damage it. You can pump the brakes before you activate it, but never after. Most instructions with the line lock will also advise against this.
Never knew that... I have been doing the same routine for 6 years with my line-lock and never have had a problem. So your saying, don't touch the brakes after your activate the LL? Try it once.

David
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Old May 16, 2007 | 08:27 AM
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Why would you pump the brakes after activating the line lock? Just curious.
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Old May 16, 2007 | 09:33 AM
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^^^yea I thought once you activate the line lock you cant possibly get anymore pressure to the fronts. I thought the sequense was roll into water box, hit the brakes, set the line lock, do burnout, get up to the staging lines, shut line lock off, hit the brakes, stall it up, launch on green light.

I have a abs delete kit with line lock but havent powered up my line lock yet Maybe this weekend
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Old May 16, 2007 | 10:02 AM
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^^^yea I thought once you activate the line lock you cant possibly get anymore pressure to the fronts. I thought the sequense was roll into water box, hit the brakes, set the line lock, do burnout, get up to the staging lines, shut line lock off, hit the brakes, stall it up, launch on green light.

I have a abs delete kit with line lock but havent powered up my line lock yet Maybe this weekend
Actually you aren't going to get to the staging lanes unless you shut the line lock off first. Once you are coming to the end of your burnout you let off the line lock and then roll out of the burnout and then go to the staging lanes. The line lock will lock the front brakes until you let off of it.
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Old May 16, 2007 | 07:36 PM
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So do I start the burnout in 2nd, or shift through it?
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Old May 16, 2007 | 08:28 PM
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Start out in 1st get the wheels up tp speed then shift to 2nd and really get some heat in them. Are you auto or M6?
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Old May 16, 2007 | 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by TN94Z
Start out in 1st get the wheels up tp speed then shift to 2nd and really get some heat in them. Are you auto or M6?
You know one time I had my line lock on and I was warming them up in first for about 5 seconds and I hamered it up to about 4500 RPM and the slamed it into second and I had nothing but clutch slip and no tire spin so i never did it again becuase I thought I did it wrong?
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Old May 16, 2007 | 09:01 PM
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I usually shift into 2nd pretty soon after I get the wheels spinning. Im on a TH350 though. I have never launched a 6spd with anything other than street tires, so I didn't really worry about a burnout.
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Old May 16, 2007 | 09:15 PM
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If your clutch is even remotely decent (even a stocker in good condition) with DRs and a LL, you should be able to start your burnout in 2nd gear. I doubt I could shift from 1st to 2nd fast enough to prevent the tires from spinning. I've never tried it, though.

I pull through the waterbox, stop with the rear tires in the water, give them a quick turn over, roll out, press the brakes, engage the LL, rev it up to about 4k, drop the clutch (why bother slipping it?), hold it, look in my side mirror for white (not grey, but white) smoke, keep on the gas while disengaging the LL, and then spin up to the line. The tires usually spin for 5-7 seconds depending on track conditions and weather.
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Old May 16, 2007 | 09:24 PM
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There you go...like I said I have a TH350 and that is just the routine I have gotten into.
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Old May 17, 2007 | 07:48 PM
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I guess I'll just have to experiment with it, I don't want to look like an *** though.

BTW, it's an M6
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Old May 17, 2007 | 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Gauge
If your clutch is even remotely decent (even a stocker in good condition) with DRs and a LL, you should be able to start your burnout in 2nd gear. I doubt I could shift from 1st to 2nd fast enough to prevent the tires from spinning. I've never tried it, though.

I pull through the waterbox, stop with the rear tires in the water, give them a quick turn over, roll out, press the brakes, engage the LL, rev it up to about 4k, drop the clutch (why bother slipping it?), hold it, look in my side mirror for white (not grey, but white) smoke, keep on the gas while disengaging the LL, and then spin up to the line. The tires usually spin for 5-7 seconds depending on track conditions and weather.
So you start the burn out in second?
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Old May 17, 2007 | 10:10 PM
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.

My opinion with M6, start in 2nd. At your power with radials you don't need a John Force anyway.

I always pump 3 times, on 3rd pump right before hitting the floor, push button. Never pump pedal after LL is on.

On 350's & 400's I was told by several trans guys I trust completely, they all want burnout in 2nd shift to 3rd. I did 1-2-3 for several years, and I hurt something twice and I didn't know why. Forgot what it was, but it never happened again after doing the 2-3 only.

One comment, not a fan of the guys that do a quick spin in the water. You are just splashing crap all over your car. You will drip water all the way to line. You should do your burnout, out of the water, a few inches, but still in the wet area. Big power guys don't matter as much, we can spin anywhere and go across the line anyway. It's less stress for any car to do it in the wet area, just don't drag water to the line.
Good luck.
.
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Old May 17, 2007 | 10:29 PM
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I do John Force burnouts with my line-lock on my ET streets (it's fun, and makes me happy and that's what this hobby's all about), then proceed to stage. I also give the tires a quick spin as I'm running through the waterbox. I don't know if it's right, but it seems to work for me.
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Old May 17, 2007 | 10:38 PM
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In the '88 T/A, back into the water, come out of it, pump the brakes like hell, flip the line lock on, get out of 1st gear as fast as possible and wind it up to about 6500rpms in 2nd for 3-5 seconds, flip it off, roll out. Easy after awhile, haha.
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Old May 18, 2007 | 02:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Navy David SS
Never knew that... I have been doing the same routine for 6 years with my line-lock and never have had a problem.

David
Me too .

This is my routine:


If it's alot of water I just roll through.
Damp and I give them a quick spin.
Come out to the edge of the water box right where it just becomes dry and engage the LL.
2nd gear at 5k and sidestep the clutch.
Keep my hand on the switch preparing to disengage the LL.
Hold 6k for 5-7secs and disengage LL.
Ride it out while coming off the throttle.
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Old May 18, 2007 | 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Dragula
So you start the burn out in second?
Absolutely.
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