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Rim Screw guys.....

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Old 05-18-2007, 08:29 AM
  #21  
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Got this from M/T website, this is the same procedure I used

http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/tech.php?bulletin=s4


ET DRAG® AND ET STREET™ TIRE SCREW MOUNTING PROCEDURE ON NEW RIMS

MOUNTING PROCEDURES FOR TUBE TYPE TIRES
1. Begin by Drilling 12 equally spaced holes on both the inner and outer flange of the rim. Drill the holes so that one hole goes straight into the rim and the next hole goes into the rim flange at a 45 degree angle (see diagram #1).
Note: (Mickey Thompson strongly suggests that you use Drag slick mounting screws only, and that you follow the rim screw manufacturers suggested drill bit size.)
2. Trial run the screws through all 24 holes. Running screws in the hole and back out again.
3. Check for any sharp edges that the screw may have pushed out or caused during the trial run through. If any sharp edges are found debur and make sure rim is smooth and clean.
4. Mount tire and tube. Have professional install the tire and tube on proper equipment or see Mickey Thompson tech bulletin #2 for help.
5. Inflate the wheel and tire assembly to 20 psi.
6. Install screws into wheel and tire assembly. Deflate assembly to operating pressure. Inspect rim flange and bead area for proper bead seating. If bead is not fully seated, reinflate and reinstall screws.
7. Static balance or "Bubble Balance" the assembly once screws are installed.
8. Periodically you should check the wheel for loose screws and inspect the rim bead area to be sure that there is no bead area separation.
Note: It would be good practice to inspect after each pass when you are checking your air pressure.
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Old 05-20-2007, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by MADMAN
The tire will wrinkle where ever the screws are. I usually run 10-12 per side and stagger the screws from one side to the other.
This is how mine are done. The rims were like that when I got them. And I put 10 in each side. They are staggered on both sides. I also had them balanced. They are 15x10's with a 28x10.5 tire.
Old 05-20-2007, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Villain281H
some guys say don't screw the drag radials, and I have a good buddy running 7.70s at 180 mph in a procharged '88 Camaro on M/T drag radials without rim screws and they don't move.

My slicks need a few passes to rotate a little but then don't seem to move again. I'm in the same boat of not wanting to drill holes.

Derek

Kind of my concern... I just put a radial on (goodyear ss) and woudl rather not bother with the screws.. the hoosiers I was running last year moved like a SOB and definately needed screws, these I'm hopign won't, but if they do then so be it.. I'm probably gonna put 8 per side and call it a day, there's plenty of people running less then that going way faster then I ever will so it's probably enough/overkill as it is.
Old 05-20-2007, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Villain281H
some guys say don't screw the drag radials, and I have a good buddy running 7.70s at 180 mph in a procharged '88 Camaro on M/T drag radials without rim screws and they don't move.

My slicks need a few passes to rotate a little but then don't seem to move again. I'm in the same boat of not wanting to drill holes.

Derek
yeah will is using the same method as me. permatex hi tack on the bead. tires don't move and no stupid screws. i've found that you don't get as many passes out of a screwed tire as you do an unscrewed.
Old 05-20-2007, 09:26 PM
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The M/T drag radials stick to the rims pretty well. I didn't see any movement with my car. With the bias ply ET Streets I had to run screws.
Old 05-21-2007, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by tektrans
I use a drop of clear silicone in the screw holes before I screw them down, someone told me once that keeps the air in so I've been doing it for years-whether it really works-who knows?
Put the dollop of silicone on the threads of the screws starting at the tip. It acts as a lub and helps prevent the screw from pushing the bead away from the rim and wraping material around the screw causing bead distortion. As Madman sugested, the screws have a huge effect on the wrinkle action of the tire.

If you have the proper screws in the proper location they will not leak...But yes, the added benfit of the silicone is that it could help guard against leaks.
Old 05-22-2007, 09:29 AM
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.

Along the lines of the post above. I always throw away dull screws. Buy an extra pack & a sharp screw will not push bead away. It cuts in and bites like they are supposed to.

.
Old 09-18-2007, 10:03 AM
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So then it's ok to screw the Drag Radials without having to worry about them leaking?
Old 09-18-2007, 03:32 PM
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I wish somebody made some nice looking polished stainless rim screws, maybe button head ones. I've only seen silver mr gasket or gold looking moroso ones. I asked ARP at a PRI show why they didn't make any, they said no demand, I think they would sell.
Old 09-19-2007, 09:21 AM
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Hey guys, I just finally got around to pick up a set.. lol. Holy crap these screws are huge. Can anyone confirm that I bought the right size. I checked on summit and they are selling the same size but Jesus Christ I'm not driving a Top Fuel car.

My screws are 1/4" in diameter by 3/4" long. I drilled the holes with a 13/64" drill bit. I haven't put them in yet but just want to be sure they are the right size. I think they are but just want some re-assurance. Thanks. -Mark



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