Rim Screw guys.....
Got this from M/T website, this is the same procedure I used
http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/tech.php?bulletin=s4
ET DRAG® AND ET STREET™ TIRE SCREW MOUNTING PROCEDURE ON NEW RIMS
MOUNTING PROCEDURES FOR TUBE TYPE TIRES
1. Begin by Drilling 12 equally spaced holes on both the inner and outer flange of the rim. Drill the holes so that one hole goes straight into the rim and the next hole goes into the rim flange at a 45 degree angle (see diagram #1).
Note: (Mickey Thompson strongly suggests that you use Drag slick mounting screws only, and that you follow the rim screw manufacturers suggested drill bit size.)
2. Trial run the screws through all 24 holes. Running screws in the hole and back out again.
3. Check for any sharp edges that the screw may have pushed out or caused during the trial run through. If any sharp edges are found debur and make sure rim is smooth and clean.
4. Mount tire and tube. Have professional install the tire and tube on proper equipment or see Mickey Thompson tech bulletin #2 for help.
5. Inflate the wheel and tire assembly to 20 psi.
6. Install screws into wheel and tire assembly. Deflate assembly to operating pressure. Inspect rim flange and bead area for proper bead seating. If bead is not fully seated, reinflate and reinstall screws.
7. Static balance or "Bubble Balance" the assembly once screws are installed.
8. Periodically you should check the wheel for loose screws and inspect the rim bead area to be sure that there is no bead area separation.
Note: It would be good practice to inspect after each pass when you are checking your air pressure.
http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/tech.php?bulletin=s4
ET DRAG® AND ET STREET™ TIRE SCREW MOUNTING PROCEDURE ON NEW RIMS
MOUNTING PROCEDURES FOR TUBE TYPE TIRES
1. Begin by Drilling 12 equally spaced holes on both the inner and outer flange of the rim. Drill the holes so that one hole goes straight into the rim and the next hole goes into the rim flange at a 45 degree angle (see diagram #1).
Note: (Mickey Thompson strongly suggests that you use Drag slick mounting screws only, and that you follow the rim screw manufacturers suggested drill bit size.)
2. Trial run the screws through all 24 holes. Running screws in the hole and back out again.
3. Check for any sharp edges that the screw may have pushed out or caused during the trial run through. If any sharp edges are found debur and make sure rim is smooth and clean.
4. Mount tire and tube. Have professional install the tire and tube on proper equipment or see Mickey Thompson tech bulletin #2 for help.
5. Inflate the wheel and tire assembly to 20 psi.
6. Install screws into wheel and tire assembly. Deflate assembly to operating pressure. Inspect rim flange and bead area for proper bead seating. If bead is not fully seated, reinflate and reinstall screws.
7. Static balance or "Bubble Balance" the assembly once screws are installed.
8. Periodically you should check the wheel for loose screws and inspect the rim bead area to be sure that there is no bead area separation.
Note: It would be good practice to inspect after each pass when you are checking your air pressure.
__________________
95 Pontiac Formula- Stock engine with ATI Procharger, Moser 12 bolt w/4:30 gears, Rossler trans, Neil Chance 4000 stall, M/T ET streets, 10.914@ 121.90mph, 1.452 60ft. GMHTP November 2010 Feature Car. Check it out at:
https://www.motortrend.com/features/...ebird-formula/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=abZ1z...ature=youtu.be
95 Pontiac Formula- Stock engine with ATI Procharger, Moser 12 bolt w/4:30 gears, Rossler trans, Neil Chance 4000 stall, M/T ET streets, 10.914@ 121.90mph, 1.452 60ft. GMHTP November 2010 Feature Car. Check it out at:
https://www.motortrend.com/features/...ebird-formula/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=abZ1z...ature=youtu.be
Originally Posted by MADMAN
The tire will wrinkle where ever the screws are. I usually run 10-12 per side and stagger the screws from one side to the other.
Originally Posted by Villain281H
some guys say don't screw the drag radials, and I have a good buddy running 7.70s at 180 mph in a procharged '88 Camaro on M/T drag radials without rim screws and they don't move.
My slicks need a few passes to rotate a little but then don't seem to move again. I'm in the same boat of not wanting to drill holes.
Derek
My slicks need a few passes to rotate a little but then don't seem to move again. I'm in the same boat of not wanting to drill holes.
Derek
Kind of my concern... I just put a radial on (goodyear ss) and woudl rather not bother with the screws.. the hoosiers I was running last year moved like a SOB and definately needed screws, these I'm hopign won't, but if they do then so be it.. I'm probably gonna put 8 per side and call it a day, there's plenty of people running less then that going way faster then I ever will so it's probably enough/overkill as it is.
7 Second Club / STF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 873
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by Villain281H
some guys say don't screw the drag radials, and I have a good buddy running 7.70s at 180 mph in a procharged '88 Camaro on M/T drag radials without rim screws and they don't move.
My slicks need a few passes to rotate a little but then don't seem to move again. I'm in the same boat of not wanting to drill holes.
Derek
My slicks need a few passes to rotate a little but then don't seem to move again. I'm in the same boat of not wanting to drill holes.
Derek
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 503
Likes: 1
From: Texas
Originally Posted by tektrans
I use a drop of clear silicone in the screw holes before I screw them down, someone told me once that keeps the air in so I've been doing it for years-whether it really works-who knows? 
If you have the proper screws in the proper location they will not leak...But yes, the added benfit of the silicone is that it could help guard against leaks.
6 & 8 Second Club
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,284
Likes: 0
From: Illinois, RT 66 dragway area
.
Along the lines of the post above. I always throw away dull screws. Buy an extra pack & a sharp screw will not push bead away. It cuts in and bites like they are supposed to.
.
Along the lines of the post above. I always throw away dull screws. Buy an extra pack & a sharp screw will not push bead away. It cuts in and bites like they are supposed to.
.
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8 second club
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 199
Likes: 0
From: Greenwood, IN
I wish somebody made some nice looking polished stainless rim screws, maybe button head ones. I've only seen silver mr gasket or gold looking moroso ones. I asked ARP at a PRI show why they didn't make any, they said no demand, I think they would sell.
Thread Starter
11 Second Club
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 804
Likes: 0
From: Tampa, FL
Hey guys, I just finally got around to pick up a set.. lol. Holy crap these screws are huge. Can anyone confirm that I bought the right size. I checked on summit and they are selling the same size but Jesus Christ I'm not driving a Top Fuel car.
My screws are 1/4" in diameter by 3/4" long. I drilled the holes with a 13/64" drill bit. I haven't put them in yet but just want to be sure they are the right size. I think they are but just want some re-assurance. Thanks. -Mark
My screws are 1/4" in diameter by 3/4" long. I drilled the holes with a 13/64" drill bit. I haven't put them in yet but just want to be sure they are the right size. I think they are but just want some re-assurance. Thanks. -Mark
