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Launching at 5K?

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Old Jun 4, 2007 | 04:48 PM
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Default Launching at 5K?

I just bought my SS w/ all the mods in sig. When i take it to the track i would like to be able to launch it at about 5 k. It has the drill mod on the mastercylinder, and stock suspension (w/ qa1's). First plans are for a UMI torque arm and LCA's for traction. What else do i need to launch at 5k? The guy i bought it from suggested putting a Mcleod adj. mastercylinder on if i want to launch hard but i have heard that the spec 3 is made for a stock mastercylinder and that the mcleod will just burn it up. any thing will help as i am new to 6 speeds.
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Old Jun 4, 2007 | 06:39 PM
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your gonna need some tires to hook it. if it don't have (subframe connectors/LCA's/relocating brackets/torque arm) i would suggest doing those before you really launch it very hard at the track.
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Old Jun 4, 2007 | 06:41 PM
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Agreed except for the lca relocators because they are made to prevent the rear from squating and transfering wieght.
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Old Jun 4, 2007 | 06:42 PM
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it sounds like you just need a decent tire on there and maybe an adjustment on the shocks to dial it in at the track. launching at 5 k with 4:10 cogs it will probably need a decent tire out back, 26 x 10 x 15 et drags should net you some good 60' times.
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Old Jun 4, 2007 | 06:54 PM
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You need good rear shocks, no play in any rear suspension components, and bias-ply rear tires such as ET Streets. You should also have a steel bellhousing (Mcleod) to protect your windshield, dash, and feetsies. If you hook, you'll want to launch at 6k.
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Old Jun 4, 2007 | 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Gary Z
You need good rear shocks, no play in any rear suspension components, and ET Streets. You should also have a steel bellhousing (Mcleod) to protect your windshield, dash, and feetsies. If you hook, you'll want to launch at 6k.
Im pulling 1.40's with stock shocks and springs in the back, QA1's up front with stock springs.

I launch and shift the car at 7000 rpm [tractions providing] with a stock bellhousing. If you have a good clutch, you should be alright as long as you do not mechanically over rev it past its tested limits.


I would suggest the typical suspension mods that the other posters have already mentioned, torque arm, lca's, phr, sfc, and good sticky tire such as et street radials, et streets, or et drags.
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Old Jun 4, 2007 | 07:49 PM
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yeah it has kenny brown sub frames and a set of 26x10.50 16 et streets in the garage. First plans were the LCA's, relocators and a torque arm before i go to the track.
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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by stoverz28
yeah it has kenny brown sub frames and a set of 26x10.50 16 et streets in the garage. First plans were the LCA's, relocators and a torque arm before i go to the track.
With my bone stock rear suspension I was doing 5500 launches with the same size tires you are running at The Superbowl of Drag Racing in Joliet last year and pulled 12.20s and it was about 115 in the shade. I of course had sfc and a stb. Mine tended to bog at 5K, but I have an aluminum flywheel. It's trial and error and the track I was at was prepped very well!

As far as the master cylinder goes, I would stick with what the clutch manufacturer recommends for their clutch. IMO, each master cylinder can hold a different amount of fluid and has a different stroke. Can cause problems if not matched correctly. Sold me single disc Mcleod and flywheel to a friend who has an off brand adjustable master cylinder and it doesn't work. Do your research.
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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by LS1crazy01
Agreed except for the lca relocators because they are made to prevent the rear from squating and transfering wieght.
your backwards on your thinking. squatting doesnt mean your transferring weight to the rear tires and pavement. all your doing is sucking the rearend towards the body of the car.
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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 11:46 AM
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[QUOTE=WS6TransAm01]I launch and shift the car at 7000 rpm [tractions providing] with a stock bellhousing. If you have a good clutch, you should be alright as long as you do not mechanically over rev it past its tested limitsQUOTE]



This is a DANGEROUS way to go about things... and I seriously WOULD NOT reccommend listening to this suggestion. Until you have seen what happens when a clutch comes apart you can't actually understand the damage that can occur, and if you are in the car and a piece comes your way, you'll be lucky to have legs left. The bellhousing is not that expensive, and the 20 lbs it adds can be removed from other plates easy enough.


If you want to seriously race, get the safety stuff FIRST. You may someday be glad you did.
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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 12:48 PM
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thanks for all the replies
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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 02:20 PM
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5K hammer drops. Yes, I also visualize the clutch blowing and entering the passenger compartment. Under 7K power shifts I see the drive shaft exiting the tranny. It goes head first into the pavement, lifts the who damn car up into the air. That's why I always used aluminum shafts cause I knew they weren't strong enough to lift the car.

Obviously, I am missing something about why we want to start our race at 5K. Here is my idea. The kid just graduated from a Honda into a Camaro. I wish the guy lived closer to me. This is the reason I attend test and tune. I know I have two guard rails and a fence between me and the racers. I once lined up in the other lane. GOOD LUCK AND RETHINK.
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Old Jun 6, 2007 | 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by SSwanner
your gonna need some tires to hook it. if it don't have (subframe connectors/LCA's/relocating brackets/torque arm) i would suggest doing those before you really launch it very hard at the track.
Guess I mislead the thread a little. I only took mine to the track once with the stock suspension. I would recommend what this guy said. My lower control arm bushings were not in the best condition and the stock torque arm isn't anything special. You will always have the possibility of something breaking. But I would recommend upgrading the above parts. Just have to follow the chain up to find the weak links.
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