MT drag radial not hooking need help
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From: SPRINGFIELD MISSOURI
MT drag radial not hooking need help Ok I have went to the track 3 times now and I can not pull a 60 ft better then a 1.76 spraying When I was running my ET DRAG I was pulling 1.46. I have tried the tire pressure at 17 lbs and work my way down to 14 and I have tried adjusting my shocks with no such luck They hook on motor awsome but when I spray a 150 shot with my window switch set at 3400 I come off the line it rolls out a couple of feet the F2 KIT HITS then I spin about 10 to 15 feet I have tried setting the window switch higher and that doesnt help. I have qa1s and a chasis mount T.Q. Im about to go back to my ET DRAG
posting the tire size and shock settings would help...
i was gonna say that i thought your pressures sound low but m/t's site has changed since i last checked, their pressures used to be higher for the drag radials.
if you click this link it says start at 16 psi and go up (yes, e/t street RADIALS are listed here) :
"e/t street and drag air pressure guidelines"
but if you click this link, it says between 11 and 16 psi depending on the size :
"proper use of mickey thompson e/t street radial"
...so im confused. im not spraying yet, nor am i putting big numbers down, but i run my 315/35/17's at arond 23 - 24 psi on the track with good results. ive also seen a friends car (a well built 306 sbf) hook well around the same pressures.
<--- ill be staying tuned to see what others have to say as well...
i was gonna say that i thought your pressures sound low but m/t's site has changed since i last checked, their pressures used to be higher for the drag radials.
if you click this link it says start at 16 psi and go up (yes, e/t street RADIALS are listed here) :
"e/t street and drag air pressure guidelines"
but if you click this link, it says between 11 and 16 psi depending on the size :
"proper use of mickey thompson e/t street radial"
...so im confused. im not spraying yet, nor am i putting big numbers down, but i run my 315/35/17's at arond 23 - 24 psi on the track with good results. ive also seen a friends car (a well built 306 sbf) hook well around the same pressures.
<--- ill be staying tuned to see what others have to say as well...
I'm having similar problems with the goodyear radial I'm trying, I leave off the footbrake and they hook o.k., spin a little, leave off the transbrake and it blows the tire off every time. I know all the racing for cars in the 12 to 9 and even 8 second speed are going to radials.... but I'm not even close to being sold that they work better or even as good at this point.
Originally Posted by dnkynrbk
Ok I have went to the track 3 times now and I can not pull a 60 ft better then a 1.76 spraying When I was running my ET DRAG I was pulling 1.46. I have tried the tire pressure at 17 lbs and work my way down to 14 and I have tried adjusting my shocks with no such luck They hook on motor awsome but when I spray a 150 shot with my window switch set at 3400 I come off the line it rolls out a couple of feet the F2 KIT HITS then I spin about 10 to 15 feet I have tried setting the window switch higher and that doesnt help. I have qa1s and a chasis mount T.Q. Im about to go back to my ET DRAG
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From: Gainesville, Florida # of drag strips runs: ?!?!?
The thing with drag radials is they can be less forgiving than a slick under good amounts of power and/or shock. Thus, transbrake or hard launches can unload the tire. Also keep in mind we're in summertime so track temps are up compared to cooler spring, fall and winter weather (and track temps as well). On a prepped track I've gone 1.52 60 foots off the transbrake on my ET Street radials at 18 psi, but have yet to crack the 1.4X on them on the jug.
Derek
Derek
Not sure why you guys are having such a problem with them, except that your track doesn't prep the track very well. This last weekend the shop's twin turbo (900+hp) Mustang ran for the 1st time on the M/T ET Drag Radial. 275's. At 1st the owner/driver wouldn't listen that the tire loves: 1) to be burned down 2) air it up. Did 1.5's all day, spinning (nice burn out; 11lbs).. finally listened to us: air to 17lbs cold; did a big *** burn out... results: dead hook for a 1.33 60' and 9.61 at 146 run. He is now a believer in the tire. This is off a T/B and 2-step. He does make power off the line 
. My "guess" would be 18-19lbs in tires after burn out. He also now has to drill his rims - the tire has spun 3/4 the way around the rim.
1) track prep; 2) put some air in the tires; 3) big *** burn out
David
. My "guess" would be 18-19lbs in tires after burn out. He also now has to drill his rims - the tire has spun 3/4 the way around the rim.1) track prep; 2) put some air in the tires; 3) big *** burn out
David
I did air the goodyears up to 18 psi cold for my last run,a nd the result was teh same as having them aired down to 14... so I'm gonna say it doesn't hurt with that tire to have more air in them. but, I also left on the footbrake at abotu 2500 rpm and it spun a tiny bit like normal.... I doubt like hell they would hold a transbrake launch.
And I've trying the burn them down technique believe me, john force would be impressed LOL. They seem better with a big burnout then a little one.
They're about 1/2 gone at this point, next set I will try will be a set of 275/60/15 mt radials, and if I don't have better luck with those, I'm going back to et drags.
And I've trying the burn them down technique believe me, john force would be impressed LOL. They seem better with a big burnout then a little one.
They're about 1/2 gone at this point, next set I will try will be a set of 275/60/15 mt radials, and if I don't have better luck with those, I'm going back to et drags.
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Originally Posted by Villain281H
The thing with drag radials is they can be less forgiving than a slick under good amounts of power and/or shock. Thus, transbrake or hard launches can unload the tire. Also keep in mind we're in summertime so track temps are up compared to cooler spring, fall and winter weather (and track temps as well). On a prepped track I've gone 1.52 60 foots off the transbrake on my ET Street radials at 18 psi, but have yet to crack the 1.4X on them on the jug.
Derek
Derek
Not sure why you guys are having such a problem with them, except that your track doesn't prep the track very well. This last weekend the shop's twin turbo (900+hp) Mustang ran for the 1st time on the M/T ET Drag Radial. 275's. At 1st the owner/driver wouldn't listen that the tire loves: 1) to be burned down 2) air it up. Did 1.5's all day, spinning (nice burn out; 11lbs).. finally listened to us: air to 17lbs cold; did a big *** burn out... results: dead hook for a 1.33 60' and 9.61 at 146 run. He is now a believer in the tire. This is off a T/B and 2-step. He does make power off the line . My "guess" would be 18-19lbs in tires after burn out. He also now has to drill his rims - the tire has spun 3/4 the way around the rim.
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I have found on the 325 and 275 they love air pressure. A twin turbo car we just finished runs high 1.2s in the 60ft and love a good burnout and a hard hit. Alot of it is getting the suspension right for the tire.
Originally Posted by dnkynrbk
Ok I have went to the track 3 times now and I can not pull a 60 ft better then a 1.76 spraying When I was running my ET DRAG I was pulling 1.46. I have tried the tire pressure at 17 lbs and work my way down to 14 and I have tried adjusting my shocks with no such luck They hook on motor awsome but when I spray a 150 shot with my window switch set at 3400 I come off the line it rolls out a couple of feet the F2 KIT HITS then I spin about 10 to 15 feet I have tried setting the window switch higher and that doesnt help. I have qa1s and a chasis mount T.Q. Im about to go back to my ET DRAG
The problem is the car is rolling out a couple of feet, then hitting the tires. The car has already unloaded the susp. by then and it WILL NOT hook that way.
Try 18psi and a big burnout but you have to get the N20 to hit out of the hole while the tires are planted. The harder you hit them the better they will hook. Lower the window switch until the car is leaving on the bottle(mine comes on at 2,000rpm). it wont hurt an auto spaying below 3,000 it will just flash the converter.
word on what ATV said.... it takes a hard hit to plant the suspension and drive the housing down.... running 1.3x on a 275/65/15 radial is not uncommen at all around here... hell if you dont run sub 6.00 in the 8th your not competing in our classes..
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From: SPRINGFIELD MISSOURI
Right now I am using qa1's 12 way adjustable on the front and back with 275 springs on the front, I also have the iron block. Currently have the torque arm set at negative 2 degrees with an a4 tranny stalling around 2000 rpm. Any suggestions or recommendations on shock settings for these particular tires. Thanks
It depends on track prep. At the same track, on two different days, I had to air them down to 14 hot, and then a few weeks later they worked best at 18 hot.
Last edited by Matt D; Jun 13, 2007 at 12:33 PM.
Nothing more really needs to be said. Lesson: every car will vary in tire pressure; every track is different in their track prep work; every suspension will need to be set for car and track.
Get a starting point. Change one thing at a time - don't change launch rpm's, lbs in tires and shock setting all at one time.
Start the day: 17lbs cold; 3 in front/6 in back shocks; launch at your stall. Do a big burn out. Make sure you take your tire pressure as soon as you get back to your pit area. If you don't get what you want, change ONE AND ONLY ONE THING - i.e. tire pressure and NOTHING else. Try another run. It takes time to dial in the suspension. Take your time. Practice may not make it perfect but a lot closer.
Enjoy your car. Race is a blast when you can run fast and straight
David
Get a starting point. Change one thing at a time - don't change launch rpm's, lbs in tires and shock setting all at one time.
Start the day: 17lbs cold; 3 in front/6 in back shocks; launch at your stall. Do a big burn out. Make sure you take your tire pressure as soon as you get back to your pit area. If you don't get what you want, change ONE AND ONLY ONE THING - i.e. tire pressure and NOTHING else. Try another run. It takes time to dial in the suspension. Take your time. Practice may not make it perfect but a lot closer.
Enjoy your car. Race is a blast when you can run fast and straight
David
Originally Posted by Alex @ CMS
Dave/madman
Do you guys run tube's in the radial when drilled?
Do you guys run tube's in the radial when drilled?
David
I dont run a tube in any rear racing tires. . The radials dont leak.