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Good luck at the track and post up your results.
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I understand you don't like imports but I think you're missing out on some good racers.
From your post you want everyone to guess your ET. I assume since you didn't post that you've never been to the track with your car, you never have. I assume you've spent all your hard earned money buying stuff. Stuff on one car doesn't perform the same as stuff on another car. Sometimes all the stuff in the world doesn't yield the wanted return because the driver never learned how to drive their car. A 3,600 stall isn't worth a poop if you don't know what 3600 sounds and acts like on the car. I don't think you'll get into the 12's. I think you'll come back and post you thought you would do better. Everything you do to a car makes the car different. I think it's a waste of money to buy stuff without a final plan, subject to change. Plans change after you develop a bench mark, stock. Then based on testing you buy parts associated with addressing weak areas for your car.
I'll still wish you luck and please post your results.
I understand you don't like imports but I think you're missing out on some good racers.
From your post you want everyone to guess your ET. I assume since you didn't post that you've never been to the track with your car, you never have. I assume you've spent all your hard earned money buying stuff. Stuff on one car doesn't perform the same as stuff on another car. Sometimes all the stuff in the world doesn't yield the wanted return because the driver never learned how to drive their car. A 3,600 stall isn't worth a poop if you don't know what 3600 sounds and acts like on the car. I don't think you'll get into the 12's. I think you'll come back and post you thought you would do better. Everything you do to a car makes the car different. I think it's a waste of money to buy stuff without a final plan, subject to change. Plans change after you develop a bench mark, stock. Then based on testing you buy parts associated with addressing weak areas for your car.
I'll still wish you luck and please post your results.
If you can hook your car pretty well (on a tire) you should be able to get decently into the 11's
I'll still wish you luck and please post your results.
1). He has dyno results. 387 rwhp in a stalled F-body is good for high 11's period. Whether or not he hits high 11's depends on the traction. If he has bad launches due to street tires then high 12's is still obtainable.
2). It's an automatic. He doesn't need to learn how to drive it. Driver error is all but removed from the equasion (after the launch at least). He only needs to learn how to launch it. And if he has M/T street radials then he only needs to learn how to floor the gas pedal after a burnout
I have a friend who's a member here that dynoed 389 rwhp in his stalled A4. With mickey thompson street radials he was able to get 11.92 @ 115 in not so favorable weather conditions. And I know his car has more in it then that.
1). He has dyno results. 387 rwhp in a stalled F-body is good for high 11's period. Whether or not he hits high 11's depends on the traction. If he has bad launches due to street tires then high 12's is still obtainable.
2). It's an automatic. He doesn't need to learn how to drive it. Driver error is all but removed from the equasion (after the launch at least). He only needs to learn how to launch it. And if he has M/T street radials then he only needs to learn how to floor the gas pedal after a burnout
I have a friend who's a member here that dynoed 389 rwhp in his stalled A4. With mickey thompson street radials he was able to get 11.92 @ 115 in not so favorable weather conditions. And I know his car has more in it then that.
whats up with Jakes dad...am i missing something or should he just
with his comments I'm not saying that LCA's and a TA won't be needed for traction eventually. But for cars under 400 rwhp , M/T street radials can and have gotten good (even fantastic) results. I've been hearing good things about the Hoosier drag radials as well.
Above 400 to the wheels and I agree completely.
I'm not saying that LCA's and a TA won't be needed for traction eventually. But for cars under 400 rwhp , M/T street radials can and have gotten good (even fantastic) results. I've been hearing good things about the Hoosier drag radials as well.
Above 400 to the wheels and I agree completely.
Then i boutght (around $750) a BMR Torque Arm, UMI Lower Control Arms and panhard rod. (SFC's were installed when TC was installed)
My launch was so much better and dropped .3 off my 60'
I realize i shouldnt have said it as if everyone else would have the same results, but thats my story.







